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Paris Profiles – 18th Arrondissement (Montmartre) with Lily Heise

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Paris 18th Arrondissement Guide

I met Lily Heise for the first time in October of 2009 when she came to a Paris blogger meet-up that I planned. So many of my favorite Parisians and Francophiles were there, I feel blessed to have met them all, it was the start to decade-long online and offline friendships! Skip ahead a few years and I worked with Lily on a few Context Travel tours in Paris, which enjoyed immensely and highly recommend! (I’ve done 5 in Paris, 1 in London and 2 in Kyoto).

In 2013 Lily published Je T’Aime, Me Neither,  followed by Je T’Aime … Maybe? in 2016, both of which appear on my Francophile Library & Books to Read Before Visiting Paris post. Known as Mademoiselle Romance, now Lily is back with a new project called “There’s Only One Paris” club via Patreon that grants members exclusive access (various levels) to Paris content including copies of her new short participatory stories. Lily is a long time resident of the 18th Arrondissement, a.k.a. Montmartre so I am really excited that I finally snagged her for her local insider view of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods!

Mademoiselle Romance Lily Heise of Je T'Aime, Me Neither

Mademoiselle Romance Lily Heise of Je T’Aime, Me Neither, photo credit: Charlene Schreuder.

Lily has been a tour guide for years, has written a lot about Paris, and is the perfect person to give you the inside scoop!

[1] Favorite thing about the 18th arrondissement

Paris 18th Arrondissement_rue de l'abreuvoir

Rue de l’Abreuvoir in the 18eme

The backstreets of Montmartre. One only needs to drift away from the throngs of tourists at the top of the hill to find some really charming areas. Montmartre was only annexed into Paris in 1860. From the middle ages to the French Revolution the hill only had an abbey complex and stone quarry, then a village gradually developed in the 19th century. Therefore, many parts of the neighborhood still retain a village-like feel. The small and winding back streets are perfect for strolling any time of day, but I think the evening is particularly atmospheric! Start up Avenue Junot and let yourself wander, but don’t miss Rue de l’Abreuvoir, one of the prettiest streets in the whole city

[2] Least favorite thing about the 18th arrondissement

Paris 18th Arrondissement_Sacre Coeur

That some tourists only come in masses and head straight for the Moulin Rouge or Sacré-Coeur and not visit other parts of the neighborhood which are literary paces away from these over-crowded sites. The district has much more to offer!

[3] What differentiates the 18th arrondissement from all the other parts of the city?

Paris 18th Arrondissement_Montmartre Views

The views. There are a few other former villages within the current Paris city limits, like Charonne, Buttes-aux-Cailles, Les Batignolles, or Passy, however, few other places in the city can boast the stunning views that can be admired from Montmartre. Always be on the lookout! Some of my favorites are included in this article I wrote on the subject.

[4] Favorite coffee spot in the 18th neighborhood

Le SyLon de Montmartre in the 18th

Le SyLon de Montmartre, photo credit: L’Atelier GMD et Glenn Medioni

SyLon de MontMartre. This newish café is tucked away on a side street just south of rue des Abbesses so it’s more for locals in the know. It has a modern decor, however, a warm and cozy feel thanks to colorful cushions made of exotic prints and great coffee.

[5] Favorite spot for drinks in the 18th

Paris 18th Arrondissement_Au Petit Montmartre

Au Petit Montmartre bar in the 18eme.

It’s tough to narrow it down to just one… so I’m going to cheat and list two. If you’re looking to soak up the neighborhood ambiance, then nothing beats the terrace of Au Petit Montmartre. The only café right on Place des Abbesses, you can order un verre de vin or pinte de bierre and watch the local Montmartois come and go. It’s also one of the sunniest terraces in the area, so come from mid-afternoon to early evening. Alternatively, if you want a wow factor then make your way to the top floor of the Terrass Hotel, home to one of the best rooftop terraces in all of Paris. From its heights, you can see all the whole city. It’s a tiny bit pricey, but worth it for the views.

[6] Favorite local hangout in the 18th

Le Village. As its name indicates, this is a great local café amidst the many tourist-oriented ones that now line row des Abbesses. It’s small and most people can be found on the terrace, it’s perfect for a coffee in the morning or great value apéro at the end of the afternoon.

[7] Favorite breakfast spot in the 18th

Coquelicot Bakery Montmartre

Coquelicot Bakery in Montmartre, photo credit Coquelicot.

Coquelicot. It’s hard to beat the breakfast and quality at this great neighborhood bakery. They also have an excellent array of “formule” options to suit all levels of hunger, from un grand bol de café with a croissant to a decadent cheesy omelette with pommes sautées. Their outdoor seating is highly coveted, but they also have tables upstairs. Be forewarned that service can be slow, but sit back and relax… you’re in France after all!

[8] Favorite lunch spot in the 18th.

Paris 18th Arrondissement_Bossue

Bossue restaurant in the 18eme.

Bossue. On the end of rue des Abbesses when it becomes rue Joseph de Maistre is this fabulous modern café. They serve some great creative light lunch options and have a wonderful selection of pastries. This is great for a delectable afternoon coffee break and Sunday brunch is also popular here.

[9] Favorite dinner spot in the 18th.

Paris 18th Arrondissement_Ma Biche

Ma Biche restaurant in the 18eme.

Ma Biche. Being located off the main drag of rue des Abbesses has helped this restaurant maintain its local character. It has a simple typical bistro decor and serves regularly changing dishes using seasonal, excellent quality ingredients personally sourced from producers.

[10] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.

Villa Léandre in Montmartre

Villa Léandre in Montmartre, photo credit: Wikimedia Commons.

Villa Léandre. It’s impossible not to fall in love with this picturesque “villa” street located off of Avenue Junot. The pedestrian lane is bordered by charming 2-3 story houses built in the 1920s, each different from the next. Look out for the small details, like windmills on the fences, some ceramic birds, and a nod towards our British friends at #10.

Merci, Lily!

Other great spots in the 18th arrondissement curated for you:

Paris Guide 18eme

18eme/18th Arrondissement Restaurants

> Abattoir Végétal (61 rue Ramey) seasonal vegan and vegetarian food.
> Atelier P1 (157 Rue Marcadet) oranic sourdough bakery.
> Au Petit Montmartre (16 Place des Abbesses) mentioned by Lily above.
> Aux Trois Petits Cochons (28 rue la Vieuville) daily seasonal dishes.
> Bijou (10 Rue Dancourt) Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist.
> Boca dos (41, Rue des Trois Frères) Spanish wine and tapas.
> Boulangerie du Square (50 Rue Hermel) artisanal pasteries, cookies, ice creams and sorbets.
> Bouillion Pigale (22 Bd de Clichy) for when you fancy a more classic French meal.
> Buffet Sandwicherie Fine (11 Rue Muller) delicious variety of sandwiches.
> Bululu Arepera (20 Rue de la Fontaine du But) first Venezuelan restaurant in Paris.
> Café Pimpin (64 rue Ramey) coffee and light plates of quiches, sandwiches, salads and soups.
> Chez Plumeau (Place du Calvaire) a reformed inn, dine within the old world charm of Paris cabaret.
> Coquelicot (24 Rue Des Abbesses) mentioned by Lily above.
> Esquisse (151 Bis Rue Marcadet) vintage bistro.
> Etsi (23 Rue Eugène Carrière) yummy Greek and Mediterranean food
> Fichon (98 rue Marcadet) amazing seafood.
> Glace Bachir (7 Rue Tardieu) 100% organic ice cream.
> Guilo Guilo (8 Garreau) high demand gastronomic Japanese.
> Grenouilles (55 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre) quick sandwiches.
> Hardware Société (10 Rue Lamarck) trendy brunch spot.
> Il Brigante (14 Rue du Ruisseau) really good pizza!
> L’Arcane (39 rue Lamarck) contemporary French cooking.
> La Fourmi (74 Rue des Martyrs) traditional brasserie.
> Le Bon, La Butte (102 ter Rue Lepic) Airy bistro with a regularly changing menu of French cuisine with a dash of fusion flare.
> La Bossue (9 rue Joseph de Maistre) mentioned by Lily above.
> La Boîte aux Lettres (108 Rue Lepic) seasonal dishes small bistro, great for a romantic dinner.
> La Caverne (26 Rue Raymond Queneau) an underground urban farm for fresh harvest.
> La REcyclerie (83 Boulevard Ornano) sustainable eco-conscious cafe and more.
> La Vache et le Cuisinier (18 Rue des Trois Frères) classic French dishes.
> Le Caulaincourt (62 Rue Caulaincourt) upscale brasserie.
> Le Cochon Gaulois (185 rue Marcadet) all pig all the time!
> Le Coq Rico (98 Rue Lepic) damn good chicken.
> Le Grenier à Pain (38 Rue Des Abbesses and 127 Rue Caulaincourt) bakery that’s won the best baguette in Paris contest twice.
> Le Jardin d’en Face (29 Rue des Trois Frères) do not miss their oeuf cocotte with foie gras!
> Le Jules Jo (28 Rue Hermel) local cuisine and a warm atmosphere.
> Le Moulin de la Galette (83 Rue Lepic) chic restaurant with large wine list.
> Le Petit Bleu (23 Rue Muller) for a tasty couscous meal.
> Le Poulbot (3 Rue Poulbot) 2 brothers serving homemade classic French dishes.
> Le Ruisseau (65 Rue de Ruisseau) one of the best burgers (and fish burgers) in Paris!
> Le Supercoin (3 Rue Baudelique) a selection of craft beers.
> Le Village (36, rue des Abbesses) mentioned by Lily above.
> Le Vrai Paris (33 Rue des Abbesses) discover the Paris of old times with this traditional, authentic bistro.
> Ma Biche (12 Rue Véron) mentioned by Lily above.
> Morlce Galka Glacerie (9 Rue des Trois Frères) a very large selection of flavors with larger servings!
> Pâtisserie Gilles Marchal (9, rue Ravignan) renowned pastry shop.
> Polissons (35 rue Ramey) modern bistro serving light comfort food.
> Riv’K (35 Rue Véron) Contemporary fusion bistro with a great value lunch menu.
> Sacrée Fleur (50 Rue de Clignancourt) traditional French food.
> Sale e Pepe (30 Rue Ramey) homemade Italian cuisine.
> Sarté (15 rue Saint André des Sarté) simple, essential French cuisine.
> Seb’on (62 Rue d’Orsel) French classics with a twist.
> Soul Kitchen (33 Rue Lamarck) healthy vegetarian lunch spot.
> Tentazioni (86 bis rue Lepic) traditional Italian cuisine in the heart of Montmartre.
> Urban Greener (30 Rue Muller) friendly vegan place near Sacré-Coeur with creative food.

18eme/18th Arrondissement Coffee + Tea Shops

> Café des Deux Moulins (15 Rue Lepic) fun decor.
> Café Marlette (51 Rue des Martyrs) don’t miss the baked goodies!
> KB Cafe (53 Avenue Trudaine) Aussie owners serving Belleville coffee.
> Le Bal Café (6 Impasse de la Défense) part of a photography gallery with great snacks.
> Le Rocket Ship (13 bis rue Henri Monnier) design shop with coffee!
> Lomi (3 ter Rue Marcadet) they roast their own coffee.
> SyLon de MontMartre (4 bis rue Piémontési) mentioned by Lily above.
> Soul Kitchen (33 Rue Lamarck) Parisian roaster Coutume is served here.
> Une Glace a Paris (16 place des Abbesses) a variety of ice creams, sorbets and frozen pastries.

18eme/18th Arrondissement Bars

> Bar à Bulles (90, bvd de Clichy) bar/terrace in a hidden passageway next to the Moulin Rouge.
> La Bascule (24 Rue Durantin) come for a drink, stay for a chat, a song or a dance.
> La Cave des Abbesses (43, rue des Abbesses) local wine shop and bar in the same family since 1962.
> Le Discret (3 Rue Eugène Carrière) wine bar.
> Le Hasard Ludique (128, avenue de Saint-Ouen) enjoy Parisian brewery beer near the defunct Petite Ceinture rail line.
> Le Soleil de la Butte (32 rue Muller) picturesque brasserie with a sunny terrace.
> Terras (12-14 rue Joseph de Maistre) the 7th floor of this hotel terrace/bar has a great view!

18eme/18th Arrondissement Parks, Museums & Things to Do

> Catch a cabaret show at Moulin Rouge (82 Boulevard de Clichy) or Au Lapin Agile (22 Rue des Saules) or Le Divan du Monde et Madame Arthur (75bis Rue des Martyrs).
> Clos de Montmartre (Rue des Saules) last working vineyard in Pris.
> Dalí Paris Museum/Espace Dalí (11 Rue Poulbot) tiny spot full of art from one of my favorite artists.
> Dalida Square (Place Dalida) featuring cobbled, tree-lined streets and quaint buildings it’s at its most beautiful.
> La Petite Ceinture, an unusual walking and terrace area along the abandoned double-track railway line.
> Le Mur des Je t’aime/‘I Love You Wall’(Square Jehan Rictus, Place des Abbesses) mural with the words I Love You written in 350 languages.
> Les Abbesses, you can find the famous Café des deux Moulins featured in the movie Amelie.
> Montmartre Walking Tour, discover the basilica of Sacre Coeur, the artist hangout at Place du Tertre, the cobbled street of Rue de l’Abreuvoir and la Maison Rose, the statue of Dalida- the famous French singer,  the vineyard, and the famous staircase of Montmartre.
> Musée d’Art Naif Max Fourny (2 rue Ronsard) museum dedicated to naive art.
> Musée de Montmartre (12, Rue Cortot) located with the former art studio of Renoir, Suzanne Valadon, and Maurice Utrillo, it chronicles the history of the area and has a beautiful garden café.
> Place du Tertre, touristy but one to check off the list.
> Sacré-Cœur (35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre) one of the things you traditionally mark off your bucket list.
> Square Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet (Rue de la Bonne) one of the most romantic places in summer with blooming wisteria and stunning views of Sacre Coeur.
> The Sacre Coeur Carousel (Place Saint-Pierre) for the best views of Sacre Coeur and a whole lot of fun.
> The Montmartre Windmills (Rue Lepic) discover the ‘Moulin de la Galette’ and its two wooden windmills, the last few remaining in Paris.

18eme/18th Arrondissement Shopping

> Fromagerie Chez Virginie (54 Rue Damrémont) cheese shop.
> La Cave Lambert (28 Rue du Poteau) cheese shop.
> La Jurrasserie Fine (6 bis Rue Ravignan) epicerie selling quality food items from the Jura region.
> Le Marché de la Rue Dejean (Rue Dejean) found in the Chateau Rouge neighborhood is the largest African street market of Paris.
> Le Marché Saint-Pierre (2, Rue Charles Nodier) 5-story fabric shop.
> L’Objet qui Parle (86, rue des Martyrs) quirky antique shop.
> Matières à Réflexion (20, Rue Houdon) one-of-a-kind designs.
> Rose Durantin (30, rue Durantin) Clothing and accessories by Paris-based designers.

18eme/18th Arrondissement Lodging

> Best Western Plus Hotel Littéraire Marcel Aymé (68 Boulevard de Clichy) high-end hotel where the decor is inspired by Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist who died in 1967.
> Hôtel des Arts Montmartre (5 Rue Tholozé) small-roomed hotel with exposed brick and local art.
> Hotel Du Beaumont (3 Rue Lepic) next to the Moulin Rouge and the famous Café des Deux Moulins where the film Amélie was filmed!
> Hôtel Josephine by Happyculture (67 Rue Blanche) cabaret-themed hotel.
> Hotel Le Chat Noir (68 Boulevard de Clichy) hotel in the former cabaret theatre.
> Mom’Art Hotel (42 Rue d’Orsel) family-run boutique hotel.
> Hotel Montmartre Mon Amour (7 Rue Paul Albert) love-themed luxury hotel
> Hotel Particulier de Montmartre (23, Avenue Junot) a chic boutique hotel located in a private garden, good for a coffee, lunch, or evening cocktail.
> Le Relais Montmartre (6 Rue Constance) upscale boutique hotel.
> Monsieur Aristide (3 rue Aristide Bruant) a chic, bohemian hotel inspired by the famous flea markets.
> Terras (12-14 rue Joseph de Maistre) boutique hotel with gorgeous views!


You can connect with Lily on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram, and of course on her blog. If you want to further support Lily (I am!) read more about her Patreon project, There’s Only One Paris here.

How about you? Do you have any 18th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

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Do you live in Paris in an arrondissement I haven’t covered yet? I’d love to feature your favorite local picks! Drop me a line at MisadventuresWithAndi AT gmail DOT com and I will send you the information I need, merci!

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