14th Arrondissement Guide

Montparnasse was once the far away home for the Lost Generation in the mid-1920s. However, Hemingway, Satie, Cocteau, Modigliani, and the like may not recognize the area nowadays. These artists wined and dined in the establishments along Boulevard Montparnasse after the First World War.

But having spent weeks and weeks in this arrondissement, I can tell you there is still plenty to explore amongst these quiet streets. Part of the 14th arrondissement’s allure is that it doesn’t feel like a part of urban Paris, with plenty of homes maintaining ancient architecture and most walkways lined with cobblestones. 

It also has the highest concentration of people from the Breton region (one of the reasons may be that the Gare Montparnasse has quick trains to Brittany!) and is fabulous for crepes! Plus you have historic brasseries like La Coupole (even Emily and Alfie enjoyed a coupe there in episode 10 of season 2 of Emily in Paris) where Miles Davis and Josephine Baker often appeared.

It is a mostly sleepy and residential neighborhood dominated by the only skyscraper in Paris: la Tour Montparnasse. You can visit le Ciel de Paris (the Paris Sky), the highest panoramic restaurant in Paris, for a gourmet meal with a view!

Consider a visit to the Montparnasse cemetery. Parisian authorities created it and three other cemeteries after banning burials in the center of Paris. At the time, the 14th arrondissement wasn’t part of the city. Some of the most famous French people were buried at the Montparnasse cemetery, including writers Jean-Paul Sartre and Marguerite Duras. 

The famous Paris Catacombs were created after the cemeteries in the city filled up and spilled into people’s houses. The government ordered a clean-up of city graves, with most skeletons buried in the city’s underground limestone quarries. A massive network of these quarries lies below the 14th arrondissement.

You should visit these tombs, as they hold a unique tale of Parisian history. It is also an excellent place to cool off if it is very hot while you are visiting Paris as the catacombs always remain fresh. If you are a fan of the Netflix series Lupin, episode 4 of season 2 has scenes in the catacombs (and the metro station!).

After leaving the catacombs, head to a one-of-a-kind church near the Montparnasse train station: the Notre-Dame du Travail. The church has a fascinating iron and wood skeleton. It was built for the working-class people who labored in train stations and factories. It was designed using iron to make them feel comfortable. An interesting fact about the church is that Napoleon III took its clock as a war trophy after the Battle of Sebastopol. 

The Lion de Belfort lies close to perhaps the most confusing intersection in Paris, the Place Denfert-Rochereau. The famous copper sculpture by Auguste Bartholdi lies at the meeting point of eight Parisian streets. Auguste placed the Lion to look towards the distant Statue of Liberty, also designed by Bartholdi. 

The 14th arrondissement is officially dubbed arrondissement de l’Observatoire, so naturally, the first place to visit is the Observatory of Paris. It is the world's oldest observatory and the center for astronomy research in France. It takes two hours to tour this monument to world science, though it is closed to the public during renovations. 

There’s plenty of contemporary art at the all-steel-and-glass Fondation Cartier Pour l’Art Contemporain. The museum also features a lush garden that can appeal to any nature enthusiast. 

The Parc Montsouris is beautiful and off of the beaten path. The Catacombes may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but they are certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

You see, while the 14th is not the most touristy arrondissement, it has charm and lots of things to do if you know where to look.

Great spots in the 14th arrondissement curated for you:

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How about you? Do you have any 14th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

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AUTHOR BIO

Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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