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Paris Profiles – 17th Arrondissement (Batignolles) with Susan of Picturesque Voyages

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Paris 17th Arrondissement Guide


I strongly believe in taking small, curated tours in places I visited. And even though I have been to Paris more than 50, I still do tours, particularly with locals because there is always something to see, a corner I have yet to get to. That’s why I was thrilled to be introduced to Susan of Picturesque Voyages because she is exactly the kind of tour guide that I seek out. And I will definitely be looking to her for a tour on my next trip.

Susan lives in a neighborhood (Batignolles) within a very large arrondissement, the 17th that I enjoy immensely. It is so big that there is lots that I have not seen so I am getting to learn a few spots to discover on my next trip. For the last 10 years, my husband and I have made it a point to stay our last evening (sometimes our last 2 evenings) in Paris at the Le Meridien Etoile (I also recommend their bathrooms!) because the Air France bus stop for returning to CDG is directly across the street. It’s a convenient and inexpensive way to get to and from the airport.

One of my favorite restaurants is in this arrondissement (more on that below) and I love to shop in the food markets on the streets of this neighborhood. I also try to get in a last hot chocolate from the Angelina’s in the mall that is part of the Palais des Congrès de Paris (a convention center) also across the street. (I’ve even seen movies in the movie theater there when it is bad weather.)

I really love this area and I am so glad that Susan is sharing it with us today!

Paris Profiles - 17th Arrondissement with Susan of Picturesque Voyages

[1] Favorite thing about the 17th arrondissement.

Located in the northwest quadrant of city, the17th arrondissement is one of the most residential neighborhoods. For denizens of this arrondissement, the gardens, open markets, and squares make it one greenest areas of the city: from the picturesque Park Monceau to the skate park at the newly designed Martin Luther King Park, families, joggers, and runners enjoy these gardens. The boulevard Pereire (our mini-highline) or the recently opened Petit Ceinture (former freight railroad lines) are green boulevards contributing to the transformation of Paris into a more ecologically sustainable place.

Paris 17th Arrondissement Skate Park
Skate park in the 17th, photo credit: victortsu

Once divided between what Parisians called “the 17th chic” with its grand boulevards and Haussmanian apartments leading to the Arc de Triomphe,  and the “Village” in the more working-class Batignolles. Today, the Village de Batignolles is a micro-neighborhood near the Place de Clichy and one of the most trendsetting areas of the city. To learn more about the green spaces in Paris, you can refer to articles on my blog.

[2] Least favorite thing about the 17th arrondissement.

Waiting for the Paris Metro
Waiting for the Paris Metro

From the Batignolles, the city center is about 30 minutes by the line 13 metro, which is always crowded. Fortunately, you can take the line 2 or 3 as alternatives. From the Place de Ternes, the line 1 gives easier access to the historic center.

[3] What differentiates the 17th arrondissement from all the other parts of the city?

Paris-Rue Poncelet-Market in the 17th Arrondissement
(Mr. Misadventures and I love to food shop on Rue Poncelet!)

Since this is one of the most residential areas of the city, it has vibrant open-air markets almost every day of the week. One of the oldest and best organic markets takes place every Saturday on the Boulevard de Batignolles. Street markets included the Marché  Poncelet, which has excellent boutique cheese and local specialties, the Marché de Batignolles a covered market, has a special Portuguese section, and lively rue de Levis serves the Villiers neighborhood.

[4] Favorite coffee spot in the 17th.

One of the forerunners of the new coffee movement, Dose puts a taste of Brooklyn in the neighborhood.

Dose Coffee in Paris 17th Arrondissement

[5] Favorite spot for drinks in the 17eme.

Wim à Table: Chef Wim van Gorp (who trained with Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten)  opened a fabulous wine bar with great savory tapas. His restaurant, Comme Chez Maman, on the same street, revisits bistro food with a Flemish twist.

[Misadventures with Andi note: Comme Chez Maman is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Paris!]

[6] Favorite local hangout in the 17th.

Le  BAL a cafe-exhibition-gallery space dedicated to documentary photography. Located on a side street just steps away from the Place de Clichy, perfect for delicious brunch, café, or drinks!

Le BAL Paris 17th Arrondissement

[7] Favorite breakfast spot in the 17th arrondissement.

For an American-style breakfast, the pancakes at Dose (with coffee) are perfection.  For a breakfast meeting, the Brasserie La Lorraine, Place de Ternes has perfect continental breakfast with impeccable service.

[8] Favorite lunch spot in the 17th arrondissement.

Au Petit Marguery: A classic bistro with local ingredients, you understand the meaning of a French two-hour lunch break here!

[9] Favorite dinner spot in the 17th arrondissement.

Petit Boutary:  An open kitchen and relaxed atmosphere, Chef Jay does not give you a traditional menu, you choose one or two plates that he presents with local and seasonal ingredients. Always fresh and creative, this is the sister restaurant to its more famous Left Bank location.

Petit Boutary Paris 17th Arrondissement

For a memorable dining experience by an exceptional chef, Jean-Marc Notelet, at Caius.

[10] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.

A tour of the Park Monceau and the Musée Camondo. Technically in the 8th arrondissement, the museum borders the park and the 17th. One of the best collections of eighteenth-century furniture and decorative arts. There is also a terrific restaurant-tea room in the former carriage house of the museum.

Park Monceau Paris 17th Arrondissement
Park Monceau

Merci, Susan!

Other great spots in the 17th arrondissement curated for you:

Paris Guide 17eme Addresses

17eme/17th Arrondissement Restaurants

> Au Petit Marguery (64 Avenue des Ternes) mentioned by Susan above.
> Ballon et Coquillages (71, blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr) oysters and fruits de mer (seafood) platters.
> Bigarrade (106, rue Nollet) there is only one choice, the menu a series of small plates.
> Brasserie La Lorraine (2 Place des Ternes) mentioned by Susan above.
> Brutus (99 Rue des Dames) crêperie.
> Caïus (6 Rue d’Armaillé) mentioned by Susan above.
> Comme chez maman (5 Rue des Moines) a Misadventure family favorite, we have eaten here numerous times.
> Coretta (151Bis Rue Cardinet) contemporary French food.
> Cucuzza (14 Rue des Moines) wood-fired pizza.
> Cyril Lignac (9 rue Bayen) world-famous viennoiseries, we go for the baba au rhum!
> Faham (108 Rue Cardinet) exotic restaurant from travel-loving Top Chef contestant.
> Formaticus (16 Rue Brochant) cheese bar.
> Frédéric Simonin (25, rue Bayen) luxury setting and high-end dishes.
> Gare au Gorille (68 Rue Des Dames) former Septime chef (that means it’s good!)
> Gaston (11 Rue Brochant, metro Brochant) traditional brasserie.
> Guy Savoy (18, rue Troyon) 3-Michelin-starred master chef – expensive!
> Interfabric (44 rue legendre) vegetarian lunch spot.
> Jacques Faussat (54 rue Cardinet) traditional French.
> L’Agapé (51, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans) Michelin-starred French cuisine.
> La Cantine du Troquet (11 Rue Fourcroy) brasserie featuring Southwestern (France) cuisine.
> La Famiglia (2 rue Waldeck-Rousseau) gourmet Italian.
> Le Bouchon et l’Assiette (127, rue Cardinet) Michelin-starred traditional Basque country cooking.
> L’Entredgeu (83 Rue Laugier) seasonal bistro far much adored by locals.
> Le Mercier (89 Rue Lemercier) French classics revisted.
> L’Orénoc (81 Blvd. Gouvion-Saint-Cyr) 100% local dishes that are composed entirely of ingredients from within 200 km of Paris inside the Hotel Le Méridien.
> Les Françaises (87 Rue Legendre) elegant small plates.
> Les Saveurs de Wagram (169 Av de Wagram) bakery with good croissants.
> Mamma Primi (71 Rue des Dames) Italian trattoria.
> Melt (83 Rue Legendre) Texas BBQ in Paris!
> Môm (4-6 Rue Pierre Demours) Modern restaurant-bar with artisanal food.
> Oxte (5 Rue Troyon) delicious Mexican.
> Papillon (8 Rue Meissonier) Nordic influence modern bistro menu with a Michelin star.
> Petit Boutary (16 Rue Jacquemont) mentioned by Susan above.
> Rech (62 Ave. des Ternes) Alsatian brasserie.
> Rimal (94 Boulevard Malesherbes) Lebanese cuisine.
> Rural (2 Place de la Porte Maillot) cuisine from the Haute Savoie region of France (Alps).
> Scène Thélème (18 rue Troyon) gastronomic food and theatre mixed together in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
> Strobi (12 Rue Biot) contemporary bistro.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Coffee + Tea Shops

> Doddy’s Coffee Batignolles (Rue Mstislav Rostropovitch) a quiet ambiance and a hearty meal.
> Dose (82 Place du D. Felix Lobligeois) trendy coffee shop mentioned by Susan above.
> Kaffeehaus (11 rue Poncelet) East German cakes with coffee.
> MyLo (61 Rue Legendre) multi-use space with good coffee.
> Terres de Café (33 Rue des Batignolles) specializes in European coffees.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Bars

> HO: Summer Terrace by HOBA (Parc Martin Luther King) an unmissable outdoor spot for sustainable and joyful food.
> Les Paresseux (24 Rue des Dames) cave à vins with small bites.
> Les Vins des Dames (42 Rue des Dames) rustic wine bar (serves food as well).
> Oh Bigre! (4, rue Bridaine) wine bar.
> The Popular Caves (22 rue des Dames) cocktails and wine.
> Wim à Table (45 Rue des Moines) mentioned by Susan above.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Parks, Museums & Things to Do

> Batignolles neighborhood (main streets: Rue Legendre, Boulevard des Batignolles and Rue des Dames) walk through this village-like neighborhood and enjoy!
> Cité des Fleur ( avenue de Clichy and rue de la Jonquière) gorgeous private homes that you can admire.
> Les Jardins de Saussure (23 Rue Albert Roussel) landscape building with a facade made of plants for harmonious living.
> Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner (43 Avenue de Villiers) while you may not know the artists its mansion location is certainly interesting.
> Parc Clichy-Batignolles – Martin-Luther-King (147 Rue Cardinet) green space in an urban development project.
> Parc Monceau (the park’s main entrance is on Boulevard de Courcelles) mentioned by Susan above.
> Place de Clichy (intersection of the Boulevard de Clichy, the Avenue Clichy, the Rue Clichy, the Boulevard des Batignolles, and the Rue d’Amsterdam) Haussmannian square with an ancient portal that protected Paris. It is at the crossroads of 4 arrondissements (8th, 9th, 17th and 18th).
> Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois (77 Place du Dr Félix Lobligeois) home of the Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church.
> Square des Batignolles park (144 bis rue Cardinet) great spot for a picnic.
> Flower Tower (23 Rue Albert Roussel) building with flower pots.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Shopping

> Fédération Française de l’Apéro (50 Rue des Dames) specialty food shop to create your apéro or picnic!
> French Touche (90 rue Legendre) store with handbags and accessories (galerie d’objets).
> L’Atelier Haut Perché (29 Rue des Dames) jewelry store.
> La Récolte (18 boulevard des Batignolles) organic food market.
> Le Coffre Vintage (20 rue des Dames) vintage clothing.
> Marché Poncelet (9 Rue Poncelet) this street of food stands is open every day except Monday and Mr. Misadventures and I always spend our last day in Paris here.
> Paysan VRAC (20 rue Guy Môquet) bulk grocery sourced from responsible agriculture.
> Wenhua Duvergé (31 Rue Legendre) eco-conscious clothing.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Lodging

> Flanelles (12 rue Brey) 19th-century terraced townhouse with a beautiful library.
> Hidden Hotel (28 Rue de l’Arc de Triomphe) environmentally-friendly with modern decor.
> Hotel Le Méridien (81 Blvd. Gouvion-Saint-Cyr) Former SPG, now Marriott hotel, I stay here at least 1 night every trip to Paris. The Air France bus that takes back to CDG is right across the street.
> Hotel Regent’s Garden (6 Rue Pierre Demours) inside a historic mansion.
> Les Jardins de la Villa (5 Rue Belidor) chic hotel with garden and library.
> Splendid Etoile (1 Avenue Carnot) upscale hotel.

Fin!

You can connect with Susan of Picturesque Voyages on Facebook, Instagram, and of course on her blog.

How about you? Do you have any 17th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 1st2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th | 10th | 11th | 12th | 13th | 14th 15th | 16th 17th ] | 18th | 19th | 20th 

Do you live in Paris in an arrondissement I haven’t covered yet? I’d love to feature your favorite local picks! Drop me a line at MisadventuresWithAndi AT gmail DOT com and I will send you the information I need, merci!

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