Paris Profiles – 17th Arrondissement (Batignolles) with Susan of Picturesque Voyages

Paris 17th Arrondissement Guide
I strongly believe in taking small, curated tours in places I visited. And even though I have been to Paris more than 50, I still do tours, particularly with locals because there is always something to see, a corner I have yet to get to. That’s why I was thrilled to be introduced to Susan of Picturesque Voyages because she is exactly the kind of tour guide that I seek out. And I will definitely be looking to her for a tour on my next trip.

Some posts on this site contain affiliate links, meaning if you book or buy something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you!). Opinions are always my own and I’ll never promote something I don’t use or believe in.

Susan lives in a neighborhood (Batignolles) within a very large arrondissement, the 17th that I enjoy immensely. It is so big that there is lots that I have not seen so I am getting to learn a few spots to discover on my next trip. For the last 10 years, my husband and I have made it a point to stay our last evening (sometimes our last 2 evenings) in Paris at the Le Meridien Etoile (I also recommend their bathrooms!) because the Air France bus stop for returning to CDG is directly across the street. It’s a convenient and inexpensive way to get to and from the airport.

One of my favorite restaurants is in this arrondissement (more on that below) and I love to shop in the food markets on the streets of this neighborhood. I also try to get in a last hot chocolate from the Angelina’s in the mall that is part of the Palais des Congrès de Paris (a convention center) also across the street. (I’ve even seen movies in the movie theater there when it is bad weather.)

I really love this area and I am so glad that Susan is sharing it with us today!

Paris Profiles - 17th Arrondissement with Susan of Picturesque Voyages

[1] Favorite thing about the 17th arrondissement.

Located in the northwest quadrant of city, the17th arrondissement is one of the most residential neighborhoods. For denizens of this arrondissement, the gardens, open markets, and squares make it one greenest areas of the city: from the picturesque Park Monceau to the skate park at the newly designed Martin Luther King Park, families, joggers, and runners enjoy these gardens. The boulevard Pereire (our mini-highline) or the recently opened Petit Ceinture (former freight railroad lines) are green boulevards contributing to the transformation of Paris into a more ecologically sustainable place.

Paris 17th Arrondissement Skate Park
Skate park in the 17th, photo credit: victortsu

Once divided between what Parisians called “the 17th chic” with its grand boulevards and Haussmanian apartments leading to the Arc de Triomphe,  and the “Village” in the more working-class Batignolles. Today, the Village de Batignolles is a micro-neighborhood near the Place de Clichy and one of the most trendsetting areas of the city. To learn more about the green spaces in Paris, you can refer to articles on my blog.

[2] Least favorite thing about the 17th arrondissement.

Waiting for the Paris Metro
Waiting for the Paris Metro

From the Batignolles, the city center is about 30 minutes by the line 13 metro, which is always crowded. Fortunately, you can take the line 2 or 3 as alternatives. From the Place de Ternes, the line 1 gives easier access to the historic center.

[3] What differentiates the 17th arrondissement from all the other parts of the city? 

Paris-Rue Poncelet-Market in the 17th Arrondissement
(Mr. Misadventures and I love to food shop on Rue Poncelet!)

Since this is one of the most residential areas of the city, it has vibrant open-air markets almost every day of the week. One of the oldest and best organic markets takes place every Saturday on the Boulevard de Batignolles. Street markets included the Marché  Poncelet, which has excellent boutique cheese and local specialties, the Marché de Batignolles a covered market, has a special Portuguese section, and lively rue de Levis serves the Villiers neighborhood.

[4] Favorite coffee spot in the 17th.

One of the forerunners of the new coffee movement, Dose puts a taste of Brooklyn in the neighborhood.

Dose Coffee in Paris 17th Arrondissement

[5] Favorite spot for drinks in the 17eme.

Wim à Table: Chef Wim van Gorp (who trained with Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten)  opened a fabulous wine bar with great savory tapas. His restaurant, Comme Chez Maman, on the same street, revisits bistro food with a Flemish twist.

[Misadventures with Andi note: Comme Chez Maman is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Paris!]

[6] Favorite local hangout in the 17th.

Le  BAL a cafe-exhibition-gallery space dedicated to documentary photography. Located on a side street just steps away from the Place de Clichy, perfect for delicious brunch, café, or drinks!  

Le BAL Paris 17th Arrondissement

[7] Favorite breakfast spot in the 17th arrondissement.

For an American-style breakfast, the pancakes at Dose (with coffee) are perfection.  For a breakfast meeting, the Brasserie La Lorraine, Place de Ternes has perfect continental breakfast with impeccable service. 

[8] Favorite lunch spot in the 17th arrondissement.

Au Petit Marguery: A classic bistro with local ingredients, you understand the meaning of a French two-hour lunch break here!

[9] Favorite dinner spot in the 17th arrondissement.

Petit Boutary:  An open kitchen and relaxed atmosphere, Chef Jay does not give you a traditional menu, you choose one or two plates that he presents with local and seasonal ingredients. Always fresh and creative, this is the sister restaurant to its more famous Left Bank location.

Petit Boutary Paris 17th Arrondissement

For a memorable dining experience by an exceptional chef, Jean-Marc Notelet, at Caius.

[10] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.

A tour of the Park Monceau and the Musée Camondo. Technically in the 8th arrondissement, the museum borders the park and the 17th. One of the best collections of eighteenth-century furniture and decorative arts. There is also a terrific restaurant-tea room in the former carriage house of the museum.

Park Monceau Paris 17th Arrondissement
Park Monceau

Merci, Susan!

Other great spots in the 17th arrondissement curated for you:

Paris Guide 17eme Addresses

17eme/17th Arrondissement Restaurants

> Au Petit Marguery (64 Avenue des Ternes) mentioned by Susan above.
> Ballon et Coquillages (71, blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr) oysters and fruits de mer (seafood) platters.
> Bigarrade (106, rue Nollet) there is only one choice, the menu a series of small plates.
> Brasserie La Lorraine (2 Place des Ternes) mentioned by Susan above.
> Brutus (99 Rue des Dames) crêperie.
> Caïus (6 Rue d’Armaillé) mentioned by Susan above.
> Comme chez maman (5 Rue des Moines) a Misadventure family favorite, we have eaten here numerous times.
> Coretta (151Bis Rue Cardinet) contemporary French food.
> Cucuzza (14 Rue des Moines) wood-fired pizza.
> Cyril Lignac (9 rue Bayen) world-famous viennoiseries, we go for the baba au rhum!
> Faham (108 Rue Cardinet) exotic restaurant from travel-loving Top Chef contestant.
> Formaticus (16 Rue Brochant) cheese bar.
> Frédéric Simonin (25, rue Bayen) luxury setting and high-end dishes.
> Gare au Gorille (68 Rue Des Dames) former Septime chef (that means it’s good!)
> Gaston (11 Rue Brochant, metro Brochant) traditional brasserie.
> Guy Savoy (18, rue Troyon) 3-Michelin-starred master chef – expensive!
> Interfabric (44 rue legendre) vegetarian lunch spot.
> Jacques Faussat (54 rue Cardinet) traditional French.
> L’Agapé (51, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans) Michelin-starred French cuisine.
> La Cantine du Troquet (11 Rue Fourcroy) brasserie featuring Southwestern (France) cuisine.
> La Famiglia (2 rue Waldeck-Rousseau) gourmet Italian.
> Le Bouchon et l’Assiette (127, rue Cardinet) Michelin-starred traditional Basque country cooking.
> L’Entredgeu (83 Rue Laugier) seasonal bistro far much adored by locals.
> Le Mercier (89 Rue Lemercier) French classics revisted.
> L’Orénoc (81 Blvd. Gouvion-Saint-Cyr) 100% local dishes that are composed entirely of ingredients from within 200 km of Paris inside the Hotel Le Méridien.
> Les Françaises (87 Rue Legendre) elegant small plates.
> Les Saveurs de Wagram (169 Av de Wagram) bakery with good croissants.
> Mamma Primi (71 Rue des Dames) Italian trattoria.
> Oxte (5 Rue Troyon) delicious Mexican.
> Papillon (8 Rue Meissonier) Nordic influence modern bistro menu with a Michelin star.
> Petit Boutary (16 Rue Jacquemont) mentioned by Susan above.
> Rech (62 Ave. des Ternes) Alsatian brasserie.
> Rimal (94 Boulevard Malesherbes) Lebanese cuisine.
> Rural (2 Place de la Porte Maillot) cuisine from the Haute Savoie region of France (Alps).
> Scène Thélème (18 rue Troyon) gastronomic food and theatre mixed together in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
> Strobi (12 Rue Biot) contemporary bistro.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Coffee + Tea Shops

> Dose (82 Place du D. Felix Lobligeois) trendy coffee shop mentioned by Susan above.
> Kaffeehaus (11 rue Poncelet) East German cakes with coffee.
> MyLo (61 Rue Legendre) multi-use space with good coffee.
> Terres de Café (33 Rue des Batignolles) specializes in European coffees.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Bars

> Les Paresseux (24 Rue des Dames) cave à vins with small bites.
> Les Vins des Dames (42 Rue des Dames) rustic wine bar (serves food as well).
> Oh Bigre! (4, rue Bridaine) wine bar.
> The Popular Caves (22 rue des Dames) cocktails and wine.
> Wim à Table (45 Rue des Moines) mentioned by Susan above.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Parks, Museums & Things to Do

> Batignolles neighborhood (main streets: Rue Legendre, Boulevard des Batignolles and Rue des Dames) walk through this village-like neighborhood and enjoy!
> Cité des Fleur ( avenue de Clichy and rue de la Jonquière) gorgeous private homes that you can admire.
> Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner (43 Avenue de Villiers) while you may not know the artists its mansion location is certainly interesting.
> Parc Monceau (the park’s main entrance is on Boulevard de Courcelles) mentioned by Susan above.
> Place de Clichy (intersection of the Boulevard de Clichy, the Avenue Clichy, the Rue Clichy, the Boulevard des Batignolles, and the Rue d’Amsterdam) Haussmannian square with an ancient portal that protected Paris. It is at the crossroads of 4 arrondissements (8th, 9th, 17th and 18th).
> Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois (77 Place du Dr Félix Lobligeois) home of the Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church.
> Square des Batignolles park (144 bis rue Cardinet) great spot for a picnic.
> Flower Tower (23 Rue Albert Roussel) building with flower pots.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Shopping

> Fédération Française de l’Apéro (50 Rue des Dames) specialty food shop to create your apéro or picnic!
> French Touche (90 rue Legendre) store with handbags and accessories (galerie d’objets).
> L’Atelier Haut Perché (29 Rue des Dames) jewelry store.
> La Récolte (18 boulevard des Batignolles) organic food market.
> Marché Poncelet (9 Rue Poncelet) this street of food stands is open every day except Monday and Mr. Misadventures and I always spend our last day in Paris here.
> Wenhua Duvergé (31 Rue Legendre) eco-conscious clothing.

17eme/17th Arrondissement Lodging

> Flanelles (12 rue Brey) 19th-century terraced townhouse with a beautiful library.
> Hidden Hotel (28 Rue de l’Arc de Triomphe) environmentally-friendly with modern decor.
> Hotel Le Méridien (81 Blvd. Gouvion-Saint-Cyr) Former SPG, now Marriott hotel, I stay here at least 1 night every trip to Paris. The Air France bus that takes back to CDG is right across the street.
> Hotel Regent’s Garden (6 Rue Pierre Demours) inside a historic mansion.
> Les Jardins de la Villa (5 Rue Belidor) chic hotel with garden and library.
> Splendid Etoile (1 Avenue Carnot) upscale hotel.

Fin!

You can connect with Susan of Picturesque Voyages on Facebook, Instagram, and of course on her blog.

How about you? Do you have any 17th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 2nd Arrondissement | 3rd Arrondissement | 4th Arrondissement | 6th Arrondissement | 7th Arrondissement | 9th Arrondissement | 10th Arrondissement | 13th Arrondissement |  15th Arrondissement | 17th Arrondissement | 18th Arrondissement | 19th Arrondissement 

Do you live in Paris in an arrondissement I haven’t covered yet? I’d love to feature your favorite local picks! Drop me a line at MisadventuresWithAndi AT gmail DOT com and I will send you the information I need, merci!

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32 Comments

  1. Amber Myers
    August 5, 2020

    What a cool spot! I need to get back to Paris. I love it there! The food is just incredible.

    Reply
  2. […] 9th Arrondissement | 10th Arrondissement  | 13th Arrondissement |  15th Arrondissement | 17th Arrondissement | 18th Arrondissement | 19th […]

    Reply
  3. Jennifer Van Haitsma
    August 5, 2020

    I cannot wait to travel to Europe some day! I have never but I am dying to experience it. Thanks for all your helpful tips.

    Reply
  4. Nathalie Bolet
    August 5, 2020

    This is such a great guide. Loved all the details and how you shared even your less favourite things. Thank you!

    Reply
  5. Kelly
    August 5, 2020

    One of my favorite things to do when I visit a new place is also to take a tour to familiarize myself with the area and to get to know a bit of the history. It’s great that Susan lived in the district, so you really got a first hand look! I love open air markets as well, it makes it convenient that they are right in the district and a lot of travel isn’t necessary. I haven’t been to Paris yet, but I will be sure to refer back to all of your Paris posts when the time comes to go.

    Reply
  6. Joline
    August 5, 2020

    There’s so much to discover in Paris! We love going to local spots when we travel too. We’re always lucky to have a local show us the ins and outs. This is right up our alley and a must-see.

    Reply
  7. Pam Wattenbarger
    August 5, 2020

    I’ve haven’t been to Paris yet, but it is on my bucket list. I love getting recommendations directly from locals.

    Reply
  8. Francesca
    August 5, 2020

    The 17th arrondissement looks like such a fun area to visit in Paris. I would love to check out the bars you recommended. I also would be curious to see the bathrooms at Le Meridien Etoile.

    Reply
  9. Terri A Steffes
    August 5, 2020

    Let’s just go together when the world opens up! You be the guide! 🙂

    Reply
  10. Jenn and Ed Coleman
    August 5, 2020

    I love the layout of these guides. I am really in the mood for a classic ‘two-hour French lunch’ where I sip a coffee and watch the world go by. That would be just perfect right about now.

    Reply
  11. Monica Simpson
    August 5, 2020

    It’s always been a dream of mine to visit France. I didn’t know Paris was broken up into different numbered areas like this though. The 17th sounds lovely.

    Reply
  12. Catalina
    August 6, 2020

    I’ve heard so many beautiful things about the 17th arrondissement. I would like to visit it one day!

    Reply
  13. Beth
    August 6, 2020

    What a wonderful virtual tour of 17th Arrondissement. I haven’t been to Paris since I was a kid, but this makes me want to go back!

    Reply
  14. Kathy
    August 6, 2020

    I love being able to visit new places. I have never been to Paris, but it’s my number one place I’d love to go. It sure would be a beautiful place to be.

    Reply
  15. Janeane M Davis
    August 6, 2020

    I have never been to France, but have always wanted to go. I enjoyed this article and the glimpse into this area of Paris.

    Reply
  16. Mikkel Woodruff
    August 6, 2020

    I love all the fresh asparagus in this post between the market and restaurant! Also dreaming about Park Monceau. It’s gorgeous. We love a Meridien/Marriott hotel so we’ve pinned this post for that tip the next time we’re in Paris! Thanks, Andi!

    Reply
  17. Swathi
    August 6, 2020

    I hav never been to France, paris is my dream destination. May be some time I will visit there , sure I will try to visit all these places.

    Reply
  18. Nyxie
    August 7, 2020

    I’d love to visit Paris again. I haven’t been in so long, and I doubt I will be with all this COVID going on.
    Your post brought back so many memories of family vacations!

    Reply
  19. Karen BakingInATornado
    August 7, 2020

    I’ve traveled quite a bit but never been to Paris. I agree that no matter where you go, you learn more from tours led by locals. It’s funny, but I’ve actually heard of the 17th arrondissement from a favorite show of mine, House Hunters International.

    Reply
  20. Diane
    August 7, 2020

    Absolutely loved this! It makes me SO homesick for my Paris.
    Will I ever get back?

    Reply
  21. http://www.menopausalmom.com
    August 7, 2020

    The really makes me miss traveling. It has been YEARS since I went to France!

    Reply
  22. Mama Maggie's Kitchen
    August 7, 2020

    Oh wow! I am sooo excited to go to Paris! All the places you mentioned sound sooo perfect to visit.

    Reply
  23. mayuri
    August 8, 2020

    I love Paris. Such a detailed guide. I am saving this to try out the cafes you mentioned in the post! Thanks for sharing love from Canada

    Reply
  24. MacKenzie
    August 8, 2020

    Your posts and site make me actually interested in Paris! I had a terrible experience a few years back and really didn’t think it was for me, but I’m strongly reconsidering!

    Reply
  25. Lynne Nieman
    August 9, 2020

    It’s always great to learn about a lesser-visited part of Paris. Can’t wait to get back to this amazing city!

    Reply
  26. SHANY YIZHAK
    August 9, 2020

    The 17th Arrondissement looks like a great area to explore. I really hope to come back to Paris soon and see more of the city. Only been there for a day and fell in-love immediately. Thank you for sharing!

    Reply
  27. Arielle Kurtze
    August 9, 2020

    What a fantastic guide! I’ve been to France several times but I absolutely need to spend more time in the 17th Arrondissement. So much to see do (and most importantly eat 😀 ) there!! Definitely on our bucket list. Loved your photos and thanks for sharing!

    Reply
  28. Kelly
    August 10, 2020

    I just love your posts on all of the great things to visit in each of these areas in Paris! I definitely have to go back one day soon as you have introduced me to so many spots I had never heard of before 🙂

    Reply
  29. Francesca
    August 13, 2020

    What a gorgeous place to visit with delicious food and a beautiful park! I love doing tours with a local because it allows you to get a deeper insight into a destination that you might not have got otherwise!

    Reply
  30. Josy A
    August 18, 2020

    I have really been enjoying this series. I totally agree, it is always possible to find new places and learn more, even when you know a city really well. I love the sound of Park Monceau, the Musée Camondo, as well as all that fooood! Susan’s ideas are fab!

    Reply
  31. […] Paris Profiles 17th Arrondissement with Susan of Picturesque Voyages […]

    Reply
  32. […] Location: 35 Blvd de Courcelles bordering the 8th and the 17th Arrondissement. […]

    Reply

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