Paris Profiles – 9th Arrondissement with Alix & Hugo

It seems just about every other trip to Paris, Mr. Misadventures and I spend some time in the 9th arrondissement. We may slip into the Palais Garnier which is part of the Opéra de Paris, or check out the rooftop views of the grand magasins, or maybe to take in one of the many incredible Japanese restaurants in this section of Paris (like the Michelin-starred Le Jin). Last December we actually stayed in the 9th at the W Hotel Paris Opéra and were right in the center of it all, both the Boulevard Haussman and grand magasins as well as the hipster grittiness of SoPi or South of Pigalle which is also part of the 9th.

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But I never knew anyone who actually lived in this part of Paris. At least until I discovered Alix and Hugo of A Hedgehog in the Kitchen, a wonderful food blogging couple that I quickly became an avid reader of. I love their Asian-foward cuisine – although they of course cook all types of cuisines, including French. They are a French-American couple that enjoys food and life and share their life and Paris with their readers.

Let’s Discover Alix & Hugo’s 9th Arrondissement.

Alix & Hugo at the Market

[1] Favorite thing about your neighborhood.

We love the entrepreneurial vibe in our neighborhood. There are a lot of young families here and we have connected with many who run their own businesses. As Paris adopts a general more entrepreneurial energy, it feels great to be a part of it in this particular neighborhood. We also love the dedication to preparing and sharing delicious food in the 9th. This is the only neighborhood in Paris to have a dedicated “rue des chocolats” or chocolate street: the rue des Martyrs, a must-see if you are coming to Paris!

[2] Least favorite thing about your neighborhood.

The 9th is becoming so popular that sometimes it’s too crowded!

What differentiates your neighborhood from all the other parts of the city?

The 9th has retained its sense of neighborhood. We know several of the local shopkeepers and local restaurant owners. The locals take the time to stop and chat throughout the day rather than hurrying through the day. It is a lovely feeling to connect with others in such an authentic way.

[3] Favorite coffee spot in your neighborhood.

If you are looking for us, we are probably drinking coffee at KB Coffee Roasters! We can be found most mornings starting our day here, writing for the blog before we head out on our Parisian adventures. This Australian-inspired coffee shop boasts high-quality coffee from all over the world in a trendy foodie atmosphere.

Alix having coffee in Paris

[4] Favorite spot for drinks.

We love Lulu White. This hidden speakeasy-style cocktail bar on the rue Frochot, serves unique cocktails with a backdrop of live jazz. You feel like you are stepping into Paris in the 1920s and it is magical.

[5] Favorite local hangout.

We look forward to our local Friday evening market near Anvers. We go there to prepare our Friday night meal which includes all of our favorite market finds : oysters, fresh shrimp or fish, organic vegetables, a bottle of natural wine and spicy olives and hummus. We absolutely love shopping in the Parisian markets. We also love going for an authentic Turkish coffee in the afternoon at Ibrik Coffee on the rue Lafayette.

[6] Favorite breakfast spot.

Our favorite place for a Parisian breakfast is Panifica Bakery – an organic bakery on the Avenue Trudaine. They have the best pain au raisin (a sweet roll filled with raisins) in all of Paris!

François Brault of Panifica Bakery
François Brault of Panifica Bakery, photo credit: François Bouchon of Le Figaro

[7] Favorite lunch spot.

Bouillon Chartier on the rue du Faubourg Montmartre is a classic French cantine style restaurant with delicious French fare at a very affordable price. We love the sautéed mushrooms, vermicelli noodle bouillon soup, and the chocolate mousse.

[8] Favorite dinner spot.

The best Italian food in all of Paris is at the Trattoria dell’Isola. This restaurant is owned and run by a Sardinian chef, Pietro Cocco, who makes you feel like you are part of a Sicilian family when you eat there. The ambiance is authentic, the food is exceptional and the wine is free-flowing.

[9] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.

We love bringing friends to the Musée de la Vie Romantique (or the Romantic Life Museum), so French right?! We love this museum for several reasons. It is housed in a country-style house that belonged to Chopin and Georges Sand. We adore Chopin and you can see a glove that belonged to him in this museum. We always finish our visit with a coffee in the museum’s rose garden, to the side of the house.

Thanks Alix & Hugo!

Here are other great spots in the 9th arrondissement that I have curated for you:

Paris Profiles-9th Arrondissement

9eme Restaurants

> A La Cloche d’Or (3 Rue Mansart) open late and serving classic French cuisine.
> À la mère de famille (35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre) chocolatier who makes amazing ice cream treats as well.
> Baton Rouge (62 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette) New Orleans in Paris.
> Bouillon (47 Rue de Rochechouart) all the rave at the moment, but it’s been around awhile!
> Caillebotte (8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas) simple, modern cuisine.
> L’Atelier Mala (56 rue Notre Dame de Lorette) excellent Sichuan cuisine.
> L’Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17, blvd Poissonnière) chic Italian by maestro Giovanni Passerini.
> Le Laffitte (43 Rue Laffitte) French classics, don’t miss the roasted chicken or duck.
> Le Pantruche (3 rue Victor Massé) typical Parisian bistro.
> Le Richer (2 Rue Richer) for modern French.
> Mamiche (45 rue Condorcet) lovely bakery, don’t miss their miche loaves.
> Papilles (77 Rue Rochechouart) coffee shop with delicious croque-monsieurs.
> Pastore (26 Rue Bergère) chic Italian trattoria.
> Petrelle (34 Rue Petrelle) 9 table bistro with homey dishes.
> PNY Voyager (24 Rue Pierre Fontaine) premium ingredient burgers.
> Rose Bakery (46 rue des Martyrs) try the rose latte.
> Saturne (17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires) try the “surprise” course meal.
> Saul’s (66 Rue Rodier) Israeli street food.
> Yoom (20 Rue des Martyrs) dimsum!

9eme Bars

> Artisan (14 Rue Bochart de Saron fancy, mixologist forward bar.
> Dirty Dick (10 Rue Frochot) hip cocktail bar.
> Glass (7 Rue Frochot) novelty booze and drinks.
> Hotel Amour Restaurant (8 Rue Navarin) popular in fashion and art circles.
> Le Sans Souci (65 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) classic Parisian watering holes.
> Lulu White (12 Rue Frochot) jazzy New Orleans drinking club.

9eme Parks, Museums & Things to Do

> Folies Bergère (32 Rue Richer) famous cabaret show.
> Musée de la vie romantique (16 Rue Chaptal) mentioned by Alix and Hugo.
> Musée Grevin (10 Boulevard Montmartre) famous wax museum.
> Musée Gustave Moreau (14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld) Instagram-worthy staircase!
> Palais Garnier Opéra de Paris (8 Rue Scribe) an extraordinary building where they of course, perform opera!
> Passage Jouffroy (10, Boulevard Montmartre) built in 1845, the 1st passage built mostly with glass and metal.
> Square Montholon (12 Rue Mayran) nice neighborhood park.

9eme Shopping

> À la Mère de Famille (33 Rue du Faubourg) French bonbons and sweets!
> Bloc de l’Est (28 Rue Condorcet) clothing, jewelry, and homeware, all Made in France.
> Galeries Lafayette (40 Boulevard Haussmann) gorgeous department store.
> La Chambre aux Confitures (9 rue des Martyrs) all the jam!
> Passage Jouffroy (10 Boulevard Montmartre – 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière) little shops to explore.
> Printemps (64 Boulevard Haussmann) the other gorgeous department store.
> Première Pression Provence Martyrs (9 rue des Martyrs) olive oil shop.

9eme Lodging

> Ballu (30 rue Ballu) chic with a retro vibe.
> Banke Hotel (20 Rue Lafayette)
> L’Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17, blvd Poissonnière)
> Hôtel Adèle & Jules (2-4 Cité Rougemont)
> Hôtel George Sand (6 rue des Mathurins)
> InterContinental Paris Le Grand (2 Rue Scribe)
> La Pigalle (9 Rue Frochot) chic, sexy, cool hotel.
> Le Grand Pigalle Hotel (29 Rue Victor Masse)
> Maison Athénée (19 Rue de Caumarti)
> W Hotel Paris Opéra (4 rue Meyerbeer)


You can connect with Alix & Hugo on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Pinterest, and of course on their blog, A Hedgehog in the Kitchen.

How about you? Do you have any 9th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 2nd Arrondissement | 3rd Arrondissement | 4th Arrondissement | 6th Arrondissement | 7th Arrondissement | 9th Arrondissement | 10th Arrondissement | 13th Arrondissement |  15th Arrondissement | 17th Arrondissement18th Arrondissement | 19th Arrondissement 

Do you live in Paris in an arrondissement I haven’t covered yet? I’d love to feature your favorite local picks! Drop me a line at MisadventuresWithAndi AT gmail DOT com and I will send you the information I need, merci!

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  1. Neely
    August 3, 2018

    I can see why living somewhere becoming popular could be annoying!

  2. valmg @ Mom Knows It All
    August 3, 2018

    I’ve never been to Paris, France has always been on my travel bucket list. I would likely really enjoy being in or near a bakery, I love the smell of freshly baked goods.

  3. Melanie Payne
    August 3, 2018

    My parents were just in that area. They really enjoyed it ! Looks like a nice place to visit, and even to live!

  4. Peter
    August 4, 2018

    I have never been to Paris. I used to live in a European dominated area on top of a polish bakery. It was heavenly. I would love to visit Paris one day with J!

  5. Rosey
    August 4, 2018

    I love getting the inside scoop on places to go. I am going to go to that coffee shop!

  6. Toughcookiemommy
    August 4, 2018

    I’ve never been to Paris but I have been to France. It’s great to get their perspective on living there.

  7. Annemarie LeBlanc
    August 5, 2018

    We have been to Paris before but we have not explored this area. I will have to remember to do so next time. We have a trip planned for summer next year.

  8. CourtneyLynne
    August 6, 2018

    Ahhhhhh it’s been a dream of mine to visit Paris! It’s crazy that I have been all over the world yet never Paris. Hopefully one day!

  9. angie
    August 6, 2018

    I would love to one day visit Paris and now after reading this I want to even more thanks for sharing

  10. Barb
    August 13, 2018

    I love this area, so much to see and do. My favorite to visit would be Passage Jouffroy and Passage Panoramas (not in the 9th but right across the street.


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