Guide to Paris 9th Arrondissement: What to See, Do, Eat and Where to Stay (2026)

It seems like just about every other trip to Paris, Mr. Misadventures and I spend some time in the 9th arrondissement. We slip into the Palais Garnier, part of the Opéra de Paris, or ride the elevator up for rooftop views over the grands magasins, or settle in at one of the many excellent Japanese restaurants this part of the city is known for, including the Michelin-starred Le Jin.

On our last trip to the Paris 9th arrondissement, I stayed at the W Hotel Paris Opéra and was right in the center of it all, within walking distance of both the grand department stores on Boulevard Haussmann and the hipster, food-obsessed streets of SoPi (South of Pigalle), which is also part of the 9th. That contrast, grand and gritty within a few blocks of each other, is what makes this arrondissement so much fun to explore.

For years I never knew anyone who actually lived in this part of Paris. That changed when I discovered Alix and Hugo of A Hedgehog in the Kitchen, a wonderful food blogging couple I quickly became an avid reader of. I love their Asian forward cooking, though they cover every cuisine, including plenty of French classics. They are a French American couple who share their life and their city with their readers, and their insights appear throughout this guide as Alix & Hugo's Take. They know this neighborhood like locals, because they are locals.

What Is the 9th Arrondissement Like?

The 9th arrondissement is really two neighborhoods in one. To the south, around Place de l'Opéra, it is grand Haussmannian Paris: wide boulevards, the gilded Palais Garnier, and the twin department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. Head north past Rue des Martyrs and the mood shifts entirely into SoPi, short for South Pigalle, a food-obsessed, resident-heavy pocket of wine bars, coffee roasters, and independent shops.

This northern section also carries the old name Nouvelle Athènes, the New Athens, a nod to the writers, painters, and musicians (Chopin, George Sand, Delacroix, and more) who made this part of the 9th their home in the 19th century. You can still feel that creative, slightly bohemian energy on quiet streets like Rue Saint Georges and around Square d'Orleans.

Most visitors treat the 9th as a place to pass through on the way to Montmartre or a quick stop for the Opera and the department stores. That is a shame, because it rewards a slower visit, especially for anyone who loves food. Alix and Hugo have lived here for years and shared what makes their neighborhood special.

Getting to the 9th Arrondissement

• Metro Opera (Lines 3, 7, and 8) runs east to west through the south of the arrondissement, with a stop right in front of Palais Garnier.
• Chaussee d'Antin La Fayette (Lines 7 and 9) sits on Boulevard Haussmann between the two department stores, useful if shopping is the priority.
• Richelieu Drouot, Grands Boulevards, and Bonne Nouvelle (Lines 8 and 9) cluster around the Grands Boulevards on the southern edge of the arrondissement.
• Line 12 runs north to south through the middle of the 9th, with stops at Trinité d'Estienne d'Orves, Notre Dame de Lorette, Saint Georges, and Pigalle, handy for the SoPi streets.
• RER A stops at Auber, right beside Palais Garnier, and connects the arrondissement quickly to the Louvre and La Défense.
• Gare Saint Lazare is the main train station serving the west side of the arrondissement, with RER E and multiple metro lines converging there.

The 9th is compact and walkable. It is an easy stroll north into Montmartre (18th) from Pigalle, or south into the 2nd arrondissement from the Grands Boulevards, so do not feel like you need the metro for every short hop.

Top Attractions & Things to Do in the 9th Arrondissement

Palais Garnier (Opera Garnier)

Address: 8 Rue Scribe

This grand Beaux Arts building, commissioned by Napoleon III during the rebuilding of Paris, is the most dazzling landmark in the 9th. Even if you are not catching a ballet or opera, the self-guided tour takes you through gilded foyers, mosaics, and the famous grand staircase.

Buy tickets in advance for a performance if you can, and visit early morning or late afternoon if you are doing the self-guided tour, since tour groups tend to arrive midday.

Galeries Lafayette and Printemps

Address: 40 and 64 Boulevard Haussmann

These two Belle Epoque department stores anchor Boulevard Haussmann and are worth visiting even if you are not shopping. Galeries Lafayette's stained-glass dome is a sight in itself, and both stores have free rooftop terraces with panoramic views of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower at sunset.

Go midweek if you can. Weekends, especially during the winter holiday window with the giant Christmas tree on display, get very crowded.

Rue des Martyrs

Address: Rue des Martyrs

This sloping market street is where the 9th arrondissement's food culture is on full display, lined for several blocks with bakeries, cheesemongers, sweet shops, and wine merchants. On weekends it fills with neighbors carrying baskets and pushing strollers, picking up what they need for the week ahead.

Fans of the street should look for Elaine Sciolino's book Life on the Rue des Martyrs, a warm, well-reported portrait of the market street and its shopkeepers.

Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau

Address: 10 to 12 Boulevard Montmartre

These two connected covered passages, built in the 1840s, are among the loveliest surviving examples of 19th-century Parisian arcades, with iron-framed glass roofs, antique shops, and the Musée Grevin wax museum tucked inside Passage Jouffroy. Passage Verdeau, just across Rue de la Grange Bateliere, is quieter and full of old book and postcard dealers.

They are a perfect rainy-day or too-hot-afternoon detour, and a nice, quiet break from the crowds on Boulevard Haussmann.

Read more about Paris Passages in my article dedicated to the topic.

Musée de la Vie Romantique

Address: 16 Rue Chaptal

Tucked down a cobbled courtyard off Rue Chaptal, this free municipal museum occupies painter Ary Scheffer's former home and studio, where Chopin and George Sand were once regular guests. The rotating collection focuses on art and keepsakes from the Romantic period, and the leafy courtyard tearoom out back is a favorite spot to linger.

Musée Grevin

Address: 10 Boulevard Montmartre

Tucked inside Passage Jouffroy, this wax museum is one of the oldest in Europe and still one of the most fun, with over 300 figures ranging from world leaders to movie stars alongside detailed recreations of major moments in French history. It is a little kitschy and very touristy, but it earns its place on a rainy day itinerary.

Buy tickets online in advance to skip the line, and plan for about an hour to see the full collection.

Musée Gustave Moreau

Address: 14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld

This is the perfectly preserved home and studio of Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, teacher of Henri Matisse, with his canvases stacked floor to ceiling exactly as he left them. The real draw for most visitors now is the dramatic spiral staircase connecting the upper studio floors, a genuine Instagram favorite that photographs beautifully in the natural light from the studio's tall windows.

It is a small, quiet museum, so weekday mornings are the best time to get the staircase shot without a crowd of other visitors.

Square d'Orleans and Place Saint Georges

Address: 80 Rue Taitbout and Place Saint Georges

These two spots are at the heart of Nouvelle Athènes, the artistic quarter that gave the 9th its Romantic-era reputation. Square d'Orleans is a hidden 1830s courtyard once home to Chopin and the ballerina Marie Taglioni, entered through an unassuming door on Rue Taitbout. Place Saint Georges, a few streets over, is a picture-perfect 19th-century square with an ornate fountain and elegant facades.

Both are easy to miss and rarely crowded, which makes them some of the best photo stops in the whole arrondissement.

Other spots worth your time include:

• The historic Folies Bergere and Olympia and Theatre Mogador for a concert or cabaret evening
• The quirky music-history shop La Phonogalerie
• The English-language comedy show How To Become Parisian In One Hour
• Square Montholon, a shaded neighborhood park that was once the garden of the French Revolution's official executioner

Where to Eat in the 9th Arrondissement

Bouillon Chartier

Address: 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre

Opened in 1896, this cavernous dining hall still runs on white tablecloth ritual, with waiters scribbling orders directly onto the paper covering each table. Expect a line most nights, shared seating, and hearty portions that rarely cost more than 10 euros.

Trattoria dell'Isola

Address: Trattoria dell'Isola

Chef Pietro Cocco brought a taste of his native Sardinia to this small dining room, and regulars keep coming back for the handmade pasta and generous, unhurried service. It is the kind of place where one glass of wine tends to turn into the bottle.

Passionne

Address: 17 Rue Bergere

Passionne is chef Satoshi Horiuchi's gourmet take on French cuisine, filtered through his Japanese training and a deep respect for small producers. The dining room seats 78 with an open kitchen and a chef's table, and it has quickly become one of the arrondissement's destination tables.

Frenchie Pigalle

Address: 29 Rue Victor Masse

Chef Gregory Marchand, the talent behind the original Frenchie restaurants near the Sentier district, opened this bigger, brighter sister spot inside the Grand Pigalle Hotel. The sharing plates move easily between French bistro classics and global influences, and the sweetbread nuggets, served with cream and roe, are the dish regulars order again and again. The room has a joyful, canteen-style energy and a serious natural wine list to match.

Reserve ahead, especially on weekends, though the outdoor terrace is worth a walk by for a same-day table on a mild evening.

Double Impact

Address: 57 rue Claude Rodier

A few steps from Anvers metro and Sacre Coeur, this intimate 36-seat fine-dining room comes from Etienne Dupuy in the kitchen and Mickael Robinault front-of-house. Dupuy trained at Georges Blanc and alongside Yannick Alleno, with stints at Alinea in Chicago and Noma in Copenhagen, and the single tasting menu changes in chapters through the year, built around his Breton roots and his travels. It is open Tuesday to Saturday, evenings only.

Other good options for restaurants in the 9th include:

• A La Cloche d'Or (3 Rue Mansart) open late and serves classic French cuisine.
• A la Mere de Famille (35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre), a chocolatier that also makes wonderful ice cream.
• Baton Rouge (62 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette) New Orleans flavor in the heart of Paris.
• Bouillon (47 Rue de Rochechouart) a longtime favorite that is still all the rage.
• brEAThe (16 Rue Henry Monnier) a hip, fully vegan restaurant.
• Cafe Marlette Martyrs (51 Rue des Martyrs) a delicious spot for breakfast, lunch, and tea.
• Caillebotte (8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas) simple, modern French cuisine.
• Canailles (25 Rue la Bruyere) modern takes on French classics.
• Comme à Lisbon (20 Rue de Mogador) Portuguese treats including pasteis de nata.
• Dumbo (64 Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle) a simple yet delicious burger joint.
• Fou de Patisserie (36 rue des Martyrs) amazing pastries from some of the city's best chefs.
• Frenchie Pigalle (29 Rue Victor Masse) a trendy venue with superb plating and delicious food.
• L'Atelier Mala (56 rue Notre-Dame de Lorette) excellent Sichuan cuisine.
• L'Atelier Saisonnier (58 Rue La Fayette) good, seasonal salads.
• L'Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17 blvd Poissonniere) chic Italian cooking by maestro Giovanni Passerini.
• La Crème de Paris (4 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) homemade crepes and waffles in a relaxed atmosphere.
• Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint Georges) an indoor and terrace bistro with an exceptional wine cellar.
• Le Laffitte (43 Rue Laffitte) French classics; do not miss the roasted chicken or duck.
• Le Pantruche (3 rue Victor Masse) a typical Parisian bistro.
• Le Richer (2 Rue Richer) modern French cooking.
• Le Shack (4 Imp. Sandrie) a cozy, vintage-style restaurant bar with plant-based seasonal cuisine and creative cocktails.
• Maison Arnaud Delmontel (39 R. des Martyrs and 45 rue de Douai) traditional French pastries with a modern, innovative twist.
• Marcel et Clementine (74 Rue de Dunkerque) a cozy restaurant with a gourmet menu.
• MESA at Hoy Paris (68 Rue des Martyrs) offers plant-based breakfast options.
• Mistinguett (16 Rue de Clichy) housed in a former cabaret, serving hearty French staples.
• Pastore (26 Rue Bergere) a chic Italian trattoria.
• Petrelle (34 Rue Petrelle) a nine-table bistro with homey dishes.
• Pink Mamma (20bis Rue de Douai) pizza, pasta, and everything Tuscan.
• PNY Voyager (24 Rue Pierre Fontaine): premium-ingredient burgers.
• Pristine (8 Rue de Maubeuge), the neighborhood's newest local-produce-driven table from Michelle Primc and Jeremy Grosdidier.
• Restaurant Cuisine (50 Rue Condorcet) thoughtfully sourced global dishes.
• Rolls (26 Rue de Chateaudun) spring rolls, reinvented.
• Saul's (66 Rue Rodier) Israeli street food.
• Test (70 Rue de Dunkerque) Japanese cutting technique meets Mediterranean flavor from chef Jeremy Elie Marratche, drawing on his Sephardic Jewish roots.
• Yann Couvreur Patisserie (35 Bd Haussmann) is celebrated for its chocolates and deconstructed millefeuilles.
• Yoom (20 Rue des Martyrs) for dim sum done right.

Best Coffee Shops & Cafes in the 9th Arrondissement

KB Coffee Roasters

Address: 53 Avenue Trudaine

This Australian-inspired coffee shop pours high-quality coffee sourced from around the world in a trendy, foodie friendly space. It is a genuine local hangout, not just a photo stop.

Panifica Bakery

Address: Avenue Trudaine

This small bakery on Avenue Trudaine keeps a loyal following for its viennoiserie, and the case usually sells out of its signature raisin swirl well before noon. It is an easy, unhurried stop for something sweet before setting out for the day.

Ibrik Coffee

Address: 9 Rue Lafayette

A small specialty spot pouring slow, strong Turkish coffee, the kind meant to be sipped rather than rushed. It is one of Alix and Hugo's regular haunts in the neighborhood.

Rosa Maison Pâtissière

Address: 58 Rue Lafayette

A new pastry shop and specialty cafe from two former classmates, with a cozy tea room and a small terrace. It opened in early 2026 and has quickly become a neighborhood favorite for an afternoon treat.

Shigure Cafe

Address: 27 Rue Clauzel

A cozy matcha specialist making its own ice cream in-house, with friendly owners who clearly care about what they serve. Signature items include the matcha cloud, a chewy, plant-based treat made fresh daily, and moffles, mochi baked into waffle form, topped with matcha, black sesame, or salted caramel ice cream. It is open daily.

Volume Coffee

Address: 58 Rue la Bruyere

A new specialty coffee bar in the heart of SoPi running a La Marzocco machine, with espresso, flat whites, and cold coffee options alongside sweet and savory bites. It opened in July 2026 and is closed on Sundays.

Mamiche

Address: 45 Rue Condorcet

Founded in 2017 by Victoria Effantin and Cecile Khayat, this women-run bakery draws one of the most reliable lines in the 9th, and it is worth the wait. The croissant is among the butteriest in the city, the cinnamon roll has a devoted following, and the chocolate babka, sold by weight, tends to sell out by midmorning. The bakery takes its name from the crusty sourdough miches stacked by the register, which are just as worth queuing for as the pastries.

Go early on weekends before the crowds thin out, and pick up a ham-and-Comté sandwich on the way out if you need something more than sugar.

Other cafes and tea salons worth a stop:

• Babka Zana (65 Rue Condorcet), a Levantine bakery with a new babka flavor every month.
• Blondie (40 Rue Saint Georges) a gourmet coffee shop, perfect for an afternoon break.
• Carlota (at the corner of Rue Notre Dame de Lorette) is good for a lunchtime brunch, all-day coffee, or a tapas-style dinner.
• Cult (13 Rue La Fayette) a trendy coffee shop from Top Chef 2025 alums Philippine Jaillet and Charles Neyers.
• Kozy Kanope (46 Rue de La Fayette) an all-week brunch restaurant with good vibes and good coffee.
• Noir (1 Rue Bourdaloue and 33 Rue Richer) eco-responsible roasted coffee served in beautiful ceramics.
• Papilles (77 Rue Rochechouart) a coffee shop with delicious croque-monsieurs.
• Rose Bakery (46 rue des Martyrs) try the rose latte.
• Yorgaki (45 rue des Martyrs) a new Greek cafe for lovers of coffee and Greek gastronomy.

Bars in the 9th Arrondissement

SoPi and Pigalle keep this arrondissement's nightlife lively, with everything from speakeasies to rooftop cocktails within a few blocks of each other.

• Artisan (14 Rue Bochart de Saron) is a fancy, mixologist-forward bar.
• B9 (1 Rue Frochot) a brasserie with a friendly setting and trendy food.
• Bar Sur Le Toit (Hotel Rochechouart, 55 Blvd de Rochechouart) a rooftop bar with gorgeous views and a classic and seasonal cocktail menu.
• Dirty Dick (10 Rue Frochot), a hip cocktail bar.
• Hotel Amour Restaurant (8 Rue Navarin), popular in fashion and art circles.
• Lao (7 Rue de Douai): exotic cocktails and Franco-Asian dishes.
• Le Carmen (34 Rue Duperre), a former brothel converted into a bar, housed in a beautiful nineteenth-century mansion.
• Le Lipstick (5 Rue Frochot), a kitsch cocktail bar with vintage decor.
• Le Mansart (1 Rue Mansart), a classic French bar with hip music.
• Le Pile ou Face (4 Rue de Douai), a trendy underground bar.
• Le Rouge (77 Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle) a charming club with a great atmosphere.
• Le Sans Souci (65 Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle) a classic Parisian watering hole.
• Les Justes (1 Rue Frochot), an upscale cocktail bar; part of the proceeds go to charity.
• Mistinguett (16 rue de Clichy), the Casino de Paris's cocktail bar and restaurant, set in a Belle Epoque room.
• No Entry (20 bis Rue de Douai), a speakeasy gem with wonderful martinis.
• Sister Midnight (4 Rue Viollet le Duc), a glam rock bar with drag queens and cabaret.

Where to Stay in the 9th Arrondissement

The existing curated list of hotels below spans every budget, from quaint boutique stays to five-star addresses.

• Ballu (30 rue Ballu), chic, with a retro vibe.
• Banke Hotel (20 Rue Lafayette), a former bank-turned-luxury hotel with a history dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries.
• Chouchou (11 rue du Helder): French craftsmanship with breathtaking views of the Opera.
• Hotel Adele et Jules (2 to 4 Cite Rougemont): muted colors focused on light-hearted joy.
• Hotel George Sand (6 rue des Mathurins): relaxed vibes with laid-back rooms.
• Hotel Les Matins de Paris (3 rue Clauzel) a typical Parisienne stay in the heart of Pigalle.
• Hotel Madame Drouot & Spa (9th arrondissement) is a 4-star hotel that opened in February 2025, close to Le Peletier metro, with a wellness area and an on-site cafe.
• Hotel Maison Mere (7 Rue Mayran), a 4-star hotel with quaint decor, rotating exhibitions, and a lively restaurant and bar.
• Hotel Massé (32 bis Rue Victor Masse), a calm 4-star, 40-room boutique hotel with its own restaurant, Trente Paris, arriving in spring 2026.
• Hotel Panache (1 Rue Geoffroy Marie) a trendy hotel with modern and retro decor.
• Hotel Petit Lafayette (46 rue de Trevise) is a quaint hotel housed in a Haussmann-style building.
• Hotel Rochechouart (55 Blvd de Rochechouart) transports you to 1930s Paris, with interesting rooftop views.
• Hoy Hotel (68 Rue des Martyrs) is focused on well-being and good living for Parisians.
• InterContinental Paris Le Grand (2 Rue Scribe): elegant rooms with Napoleon III-style decor dating from 1862.
• L'Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17 blvd Poissonniere): French Revolution-period decor with a secret garden.
• La Fantaisie (5 Rue du Pre aux Clercs), an elegant, upscale five-star hotel with flamboyant decor, one of the arrondissement's newest luxury addresses.
• [NEW!] Le Bus Palladium (6 Rue Pierre Fontaine), the legendary Pigalle nightclub reborn as a 35-room, five-star hotel with a rooftop terrace and live music stage, opened April 2026.
• Le Grand Pigalle Experimental (29 Rue Victor Masse), a 4-star boutique hotel in South Pigalle.
• Maison Athenee (19 Rue de Caumartin), a chic 4-star hotel with opulent rooms.
• Maison Souquet (10 Rue de Bruxelles) a mix of Second Empire and exotic-style decor.
• Monsieur Cadet (4 rue Cadet) a quaint hotel in the heart of Paris.
• Monsieur Helder (4 rue du Helder) is a vintage boutique hotel near the Opera.
• Villa SoPi (Cite Condorcet, off Rue Condorcet) is a brand-new aparthotel in the heart of SoPi, opening in May 2025, with 14 studio and one-bedroom apartments and full kitchenettes.
• W Hotel Paris Opera (4 rue Meyerbeer): New York energy meets Paris style; this is where Mr. Misadventures and I stayed on our last trip.

Shopping in the 9th Arrondissement

Shopping in the 9th ranges from the grand to the tiny. Boulevard Haussmann's Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are the main draw, both with free rooftop terraces, but the neighborhood's real character lies on Rue des Martyrs and in the covered passages, where small chocolatiers, cheese shops, and vintage stores have operated for generations.

LAH Paris

Address: 25 rue Condorcet

Jewelry designer Helene Rommelaere has opened the very first boutique for her brand LAH Paris, a discreet little jewel box on rue Condorcet. Warm wood, carefully chosen books, and cozy seating make it feel more like a friend's living room than a shop. The pieces are soulful and understated, the sort of everyday treasures you end up wearing for years.

Open Wednesday to Saturday, 11 am to 7 pm.

• A la Mere de Famille (33 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) French bonbons and sweets since 1761.
• Bloc de l'Est (28 Rue Condorcet) clothing, jewelry, and homeware, all made in France.
• Frescolet (42 Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle) a lovely cheese shop.
• Galeries Lafayette (40 Boulevard Haussmann), the gorgeous department store with a stained-glass dome and a free rooftop terrace.
• La Chambre aux Confitures (9 rue des Martyrs) all the jam you could want.
• Le Coffre Vintage (62 rue de Rochechouart) vintage clothing.
• Monbleu (37 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) a cheese shop and cheese-focused wine bar.
• Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau (10 to 12 Boulevard Montmartre) are the antique shops, bookstores, and little boutiques tucked inside these two connected 19th-century arcades.
• Premiere Pression Provence Martyrs (9 rue des Martyrs) an olive oil shop worth the detour.
• Printemps (64 Boulevard Haussmann), the other grand department store, with its own free rooftop view.

What's New in the 9th Arrondissement (2026)

A handful of notable openings from the past year make this a good time to revisit the 9th, even if you think you have already seen it all.

Le Bus Palladium

Address: 6 Rue Pierre Fontaine

This once-legendary Pigalle nightclub has been rebuilt into a five-star, 35-room hotel with a restaurant, cocktail bar, rooftop, and nightclub stage. It opened in April 2026 and is already generating buzz well beyond the 9th.

LAH Paris

Address: 25 rue Condorcet

Jewelry designer Helene Rommelaere opened her very first boutique here in 2026 (exact opening month unconfirmed). The discreet, jewel box space is warm wood, carefully chosen books, and cozy seating, more like a friend's living room than a shop, with soulful, understated pieces meant to be worn for years. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 11 am to 7 pm.

Double Impact

Address: 57 rue Claude Rodier

Chef Etienne Dupuy and Mickael Robinault opened this 36-seat fine-dining room near the Anvers metro, with a single tasting menu that changes in chapters throughout the year. It is one of the most talked-about new tables in the 9th since it opened.

Hotel Masse

Address: 32 bis Rue Victor Masse

A calm, 4-star, 40-room boutique hotel that opened in South Pigalle in September 2025. Its own restaurant and bar, Trente Paris, arrived in spring 2026 with a separate street entrance.

Shigure Cafe and Volume Coffee

Address: 27 Rue Clauzel and 58 Rue la Bruyère

Two new cafes to know in SoPi. Shigure Cafe is a matcha and mochi specialist known for its matcha cloud and moffles. Volume Coffee, which opened in July 2026, runs a La Marzocco machine for espresso and cold coffee just around the corner on Rue la Bruyère.

A Day in the 9th Arrondissement: Sample Itinerary

Morning: Start with a pain au raisin and coffee at Panifica Bakery, then walk Rue des Martyrs while the market stalls are out, picking up whatever looks good for later.

Midday: Tour Palais Garnier, then cross over to Galeries Lafayette for the stained glass dome and a stop on the free rooftop terrace.

Afternoon: Wander into Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau, then visit the Musée de la Vie Romantique and finish with tea in its garden cafe. If you have time, detour to Square d'Orleans and Place Saint Georges.

Evening: Dinner at Trattoria dell'Isola or, if you booked ahead, Passionne, then a nightcap at one of SoPi's cocktail bars.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 9th Arrondissement

Insider Tips for the 9th Arrondissement

The 9th has become genuinely popular in recent years, and Alix and Hugo will be the first to admit that popularity has a downside. Visit Rue des Martyrs and the department stores on a weekday morning if you can, since weekends get crowded fast.

Book Palais Garnier tickets online in advance, especially for evening performances, since popular shows sell out.

Many small shops on Rue des Martyrs and in the covered passages close on Sundays and sometimes Mondays. Save the grands magasins that stay open for those days instead.

The northern half of the arrondissement, up toward Pigalle, climbs gently toward Montmartre. Comfortable shoes make the walk more pleasant.

If you love bakeries and chocolate shops, pick up a copy of Elaine Sciolino's Life on the Rue des Martyrs before your trip. It adds wonderful context to a walk down the street.

Ready to Explore the 9th Arrondissement?

The 9th arrondissement rewards visitors who slow down. Spend a morning with the market vendors on Rue des Martyrs, an afternoon inside the gilded walls of Palais Garnier, and an evening with a glass of wine at a bar Alix and Hugo actually love, and you will understand why this is one of my favorite corners of Paris to return to again and again.

Other Arrondissement Guides

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 1st | 2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th | 10th | 11th | 12th | 13th | 14th | 15th | 16th | 17th | 18th | 19th | 20th

Special thanks to Alix and Hugo, a French-American food-blogging couple who call the 9th arrondissement home. You can follow them on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or Pinterest, and visit their blog, A Hedgehog in the Kitchen.

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