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Paris Profiles – 9th Arrondissement with Alix & Hugo

It seems just about every other trip to Paris, Mr. Misadventures and I spend some time in the 9th arrondissement. We may slip into the Palais Garnier which is part of the Opéra de Paris or check out the rooftop views of the grand magasins, or maybe to take in one of the many incredible Japanese restaurants in this section of Paris (like the Michelin-starred Le Jin).

Last December we actually stayed in the 9th at the W Hotel Paris Opéra and were right in the center of it all, both the Boulevard Haussman and grand magasins as well as the hipster grittiness of SoPi or South of Pigalle which is also part of the 9th.

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But I never knew anyone who actually lived in this part of Paris. At least until I discovered Alix and Hugo of A Hedgehog in the Kitchen, a wonderful food blogging couple that I quickly became an avid reader of. I love their Asian-foward cuisine – although they of course cook all types of cuisines, including French. They are a French-American couple that enjoys food and life and share their life and Paris with their readers.

Let's Discover Alix & Hugo's 9th Arrondissement.

Alix & Hugo at the Market

[1] Favorite thing about your neighborhood.

We love the entrepreneurial vibe in our neighborhood. There are a lot of young families here and we have connected with many who run their own businesses. As Paris adopts a general more entrepreneurial energy, it feels great to be a part of it in this particular neighborhood.

We also love the dedication to preparing and sharing delicious food in the 9th. This is the only neighborhood in Paris to have a dedicated “rue des chocolats” or chocolate street: the rue des Martyrs, a must-see if you are coming to Paris!

[2] Least favorite thing about your neighborhood.

The 9th is becoming so popular that sometimes it’s too crowded!

What differentiates your neighborhood from all the other parts of the city?

The 9th has retained its sense of neighborhood. We know several of the local shopkeepers and local restaurant owners. The locals take the time to stop and chat throughout the day rather than hurrying through the day. It is a lovely feeling to connect with others in such an authentic way.

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[3] Favorite coffee spot in your neighborhood.

If you are looking for us, we are probably drinking coffee at KB Coffee Roasters! We can be found most mornings starting our day here, writing for the blog before we head out on our Parisian adventures. This Australian-inspired coffee shop boasts high-quality coffee from all over the world in a trendy foodie atmosphere.

Alix having coffee in Paris

[4] Favorite spot for drinks in the 9th Arrondissement.

We love Lulu White. This hidden speakeasy-style cocktail bar on the rue Frochot, serves unique cocktails with a backdrop of live jazz. You feel like you are stepping into Paris in the 1920s and it is magical.

[5] Favorite local hangout.

We look forward to our local Friday evening market near Anvers. We go there to prepare our Friday night meal which includes all of our favorite market finds: oysters, fresh shrimp or fish, organic vegetables, a bottle of natural wine and spicy olives, and hummus. We absolutely love shopping in the Parisian markets. We also love going for an authentic Turkish coffee in the afternoon at Ibrik Coffee on the rue Lafayette.

[6] Favorite breakfast spot in the 9th Arrondissement.

Our favorite place for a Parisian breakfast is Panifica Bakery – an organic bakery on the Avenue Trudaine. They have the best pain au raisin (a sweet roll filled with raisins) in all of Paris!

François Brault of Panifica Bakery
François Brault of Panifica Bakery, photo credit: François Bouchon of Le Figaro

[7] Favorite lunch spot in the 9th Arrondissement.

Bouillon Chartier on the rue du Faubourg Montmartre is a classic French cantine-style restaurant with delicious French fare at a very affordable price. We love the sautéed mushrooms, vermicelli noodle bouillon soup, and the chocolate mousse.

[8] Favorite dinner spot in the 9th Arrondissement.

The best Italian food in all of Paris is at the Trattoria dell’Isola. This restaurant is owned and run by a Sardinian chef, Pietro Cocco, who makes you feel like you are part of a Sicilian family when you eat there. The ambiance is authentic, the food is exceptional and the wine is free-flowing.

[9] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.

We love bringing friends to the Musée de la Vie Romantique (or the Romantic Life Museum), so French right?! We love this museum for several reasons. It is housed in a country-style house that belonged to Chopin and Georges Sand. We adore Chopin and you can see a glove that belonged to him in this museum. We always finish our visit with a coffee in the museum’s rose garden, to the side of the house.

Thanks Alix & Hugo!

Here are other great spots in the 9th arrondissement that I have curated for you:

Paris Profiles-9th Arrondissement

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9eme Restaurants

> A La Cloche d’Or (3 Rue Mansart) open late and serves classic French cuisine.
> À la mère de famille (35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre) chocolatier who makes amazing ice cream treats as well.
> Baton Rouge (62 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette) New Orleans in Paris.
> Bouillon (47 Rue de Rochechouart) all the rave at the moment, but it's been around a while!
> brEAThe (16 Rue Henry Monnier) hip, vegan restaurant.
> Café Marlette Martyrs (51 Rue des Martyrs) delicious spot for breakfast, lunch and tea.
> Caillebotte (8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas) simple, modern cuisine.
> Canailles (25 Rue la Bruyère) modern French classics.
> Comme à Lisbon (20 Rue de Mogador) Portuguese treats like pasteis de nata.
> Dumbo (64 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) simple yet delicious burger joint.
> Frenchie Pigalle (29 Rue Victor Massé) trendy venue with superb plating and delicious food.
> Fou de Pâtisserie (36 rue des Martyrs) amazing pastries!
> L’Atelier Mala (56 rue Notre Dame de Lorette) excellent Sichuan cuisine.
> L'Atelier Saisonnier (58 Rue La Fayette) good salads!
> L'Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17, blvd Poissonnière) chic Italian by maestro Giovanni Passerini.
> La Crème de Paris (4 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) homemade crepes and waffles served in a relaxed atmosphere.
> Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint-Georges) an indoor and terrace bistro with an exceptional wine cellar.
> Le Laffitte (43 Rue Laffitte) French classics, don't miss the roasted chicken or duck.
> Le Pantruche (3 rue Victor Massé) typical Parisian bistro.
> Le Richer (2 Rue Richer) for modern French.
> Le Shack (4 Imp. Sandrie) a cozy, vintage-style restaurant bar with plant-based seasonal cuisine and creative cocktails.
> Maison Arnaud Delmontel (39 R. des Martyrs and 45, rue de Douai) traditional French pastries with a modern, innovative twist.
> Marcel et Clémentine (74 Rue de Dunkerque) a cosy restaurant with a gourmet menu.
> MESA at Hoy Paris (68 Rue des Martyrs) plant-based breakfast options.
> Mistinguett (16 Rue de Clichy) housed in a former cabaret serving hearty French staples.
> Pastore (26 Rue Bergère) chic Italian trattoria.
> Petrelle (34 Rue Petrelle) 9 table bistro with homey dishes.
> Pink Mamma (20bis Rue de Douai) pizza, pasta and everything Tuscan.
> PNY Voyager (24 Rue Pierre Fontaine) premium ingredient burgers.
> Restaurant Cuisine (50 Rue Condorcet) thoughtfully sourced global dishes.
> Rolls (26 Rue de Châteaudun) spring rolls reinvented.
> Saturne (17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires) try the “surprise” course meal.
> Saul's (66 Rue Rodier) Israeli street food.
> Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie (35 Bd Haussmann) celebrated for his delicious chocolates and deconstructed millefeuilles!
> Yoom (20 Rue des Martyrs) dimsum!

9eme Coffe + Tea Salons

> Babka Zana (65 Rue Condorcet) Levantine bakery offering baka rolls and new flavors every month.
> Blondie (40 Rue Saint-Georges) gourmet coffee shop, perfect for an afternoon break.
> KB Coffee Shop (53 Avenue Trudaine) favorite coffee, sandwich and people-watching spot.
> Kozy Kanopé (46 Rue de La Fayette) an all-week brunch restaurant ith good vibes and coffee.
> Mamiche (45 rue Condorcet) lovely bakery, don't miss their miche loaves.
> Noir (1 Rue Bourdaloue and 33 Rue Richer) eco-responsible roasted coffee served in beautiful ceramics.
> Papilles (77 Rue Rochechouart) coffee shop with delicious croque-monsieurs.
> Rose Bakery (46 rue des Martyrs) try the rose latte.

9eme Bars

> Artisan (14 Rue Bochart de Saron fancy, mixologist forward bar.
> Bar Sur Le Toit (Hotel Rochechouart, 55 Blvd de Rochechouart) a rooftop bar with gorgeous views and a classic and seasonal cocktail menu.
> B9 (1 Rue Frochot) a brasserie with friendly setting and trendy food.
> Dirty Dick (10 Rue Frochot) hip cocktail bar.
> Glass (7 Rue Frochot) novelty booze and drinks.
> Hotel Amour Restaurant (8 Rue Navarin) popular in fashion and art circles.
> Lao (7 Rue de Douai) exotic cocktails and Franco-Asian dishes.
> Le Carmen (34 Rue Duperré) former brothel converted to a bar, housed in a beautiful 19th century mansion.
> Le Lipstick (5 Rue Frochot) a kitsch cocktail bar with vintage decor.
> Le Mansart (1 Rue Mansart) classic French bar with hip music.
> Le Pile ou Face (4 Rue de Douai) a trendy underground bar.
> Le Rouge (77 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) charming club with great atmosphere.
> Le Sans Souci (65 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) classic Parisian watering holes.
> Les Justes (1 Rue Frochot) expensive cocktail bar but part of proceeds got to charities.
> Lulu White (12 Rue Frochot) jazzy New Orleans drinking club.
> Mistinguett (16 rue de Clichy) Casino de Paris's cocktail bar and restaurant in a Belle Epoque setting.
> No Entry (20 bis Rue de Douai) a speakeasy gem with wonderful martinis.
> Sister Midnight (4 Rue Viollet-le-Duc) glam rock bar with drag queens and cabaret!

9eme Lodging

> Ballu (30 rue Ballu) chic with a retro vibe.
> Banke Hotel (20 Rue Lafayette) a former bank now converted to a luxurious hotel with history dating back to the 18th and 19th century.
> Chouchou (11 rue du Helder) French craftsmanship with breathtaking views of the Opera
> L'Hotel des Grands Boulevards (17, blvd Poissonnière) French revolution period decor with a secret garden.
> Hôtel Adèle & Jules (2-4 Cité Rougemont) muted colors focused on light hearted joy.
> Hôtel George Sand (6 rue des Mathurins) relaxed vibes with laid-back rooms.
> Hotel Les Matins de Paris (3 rue Clauzel) a typical Parisienne stay in the heart of Pigalle.
> Hôtel Maison Mère (7 Rue Mayran) a 4-star hotel with quaint decor, temporary exhibitions, and a lively restaurant and bar.
> Hôtel Panache (1 Rue Geoffroy-Marie) a trendy hotel with modern and retro decor.
> Hotel Petit Lafayette (46 rue de Trévise) quaint hotel housed in a Haussmann style building.
> Hôtel Rochechouart (55 Blvd de Rochechouart) transport to the Paris of 1930s with interesting rooftop views.
> Hoy Hotel (68 Rue des Martyrs) focuses on well-being and good living for Parisians.
> InterContinental Paris Le Grand (2 Rue Scribe) elegant rooms with Napolean III style decor dating from 1862.
> La Pigalle (9 Rue Frochot) chic, sexy, cool hotel.
> La Fantaisie (5 Rue du Pré aux Clercs) elegant, upscale hotel with flamboyant decor.
> Le Grand Pigalle Hotel (29 Rue Victor Masse) a 4 star boutique hotel in South Pigalle.
> Maison Athénée (19 Rue de Caumartin) chic 4 star hotel with opulent rooms.
> Maison Souquet (10 Rue de Bruxelles) a mix of Second Empire and exotic style decor.
> Monsieur Cadet (4 rue Cadet) a quaint hotel in the heart of Paris.
> Monsieur Helder (4 rue du Helder) vintage boutique hotel close to the Opera.
> W Hotel Paris Opéra (4 rue Meyerbeer) New York meets Paris vibes.

9eme Parks, Museums & Things to Do

> Folies Bergère (32 Rue Richer) famous cabaret show.
> How To Become Parisian In One Hour? (Olivier Giraud, 24 Boulevard Poissonnière) Play a game in English.
> La Phonogalerie (10 Rue Lallier) an eccentric store specialising in the history of music.
> Musée de la vie romantique (16 Rue Chaptal) mentioned by Alix and Hugo, evoking the Romantic Era through exhibits.
> Musée Grevin (10 Boulevard Montmartre) famous wax museum.
> Musée Gustave Moreau (14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld) Instagram-worthy staircase!
> Palais Garnier Opéra de Paris (8 Rue Scribe) an extraordinary building where they of course, perform opera!
> Passage Jouffroy (10, Boulevard Montmartre) built in 1845, the 1st passage built mostly with glass and metal.
> Square Montholon (12 Rue Mayran) nice neighborhood park.

9eme Shopping

> À la Mère de Famille (33 Rue du Faubourg) French bonbons and sweets!
> Bloc de l’Est (28 Rue Condorcet) clothing, jewelry, and homeware, all Made in France.
> Frescolet (42 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) Cheese shop.
> Galeries Lafayette (40 Boulevard Haussmann) gorgeous department store.
> La Chambre aux Confitures (9 rue des Martyrs) all the jam!
> Le Coffre Vintage (62 rue de Rochechouart) vintage clothing.
> Monbleu (37 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) cheese shop and cheesy winebar.
> Passage Jouffroy (10 Boulevard Montmartre – 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière) little shops to explore.
> Printemps (64 Boulevard Haussmann) the other gorgeous department store.
> Première Pression Provence Martyrs (9 rue des Martyrs) olive oil shop.


You can connect with Alix & Hugo on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Pinterest, and of course on their blog, A Hedgehog in the Kitchen.

Don't miss Elaine Sciolino's book Life on the Rue des Martyrs, an amazing market street that runs through the 9th!

Paris Arrondissement Guide | 1st2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th | 10th | 11th | 12th | 13th | 14th | 15th | 16th | 17th | 18th | 19th | 20th 

How about you? Do you have any 9th arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?


Andi Fisher

I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!

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  • Flights
    • Look for fares using sites like Skyscanner or Expedia.com
    • For France (Paris) coming from the West Coast, I typically fly Air France or United. From the East Coast, I typically fly Air France or Delta.
    • If you travel frequently, consider investing in a Priority Pass for airport lounge access. Not only will you have a spot to relax before your flight and charge your devices, but you can eat and drink for free (without paying crazy airport prices!)
  • Accommodation
  • Transportation
    • For rental car agencies, try Rentalcars.com. When traveling in Europe, I use AutoEurope to make reservations. They find the best rates and allow you to compare different car rental agencies. I typically book with Sixt.
    • For transportation from the CDG airport to anywhere within Paris, consider pre-booking with Get Transfer. It is one way to be stress-free and you can request an English-speaking driver.
  • Tours + Atractions
    • I book tours with companies like Viator and GetYourGuide. Both have a wide variety of activities for every travel style. Other companies to look at include Tours by Locals and Withlocals.
    • If you’re visiting a city with multiple attractions, be sure to check out a discount pass, such as CityPASS or Go City.
    • Context Travel is another option and they offer more educational-based activities.
    • If you are looking to buy tickets to attractions, check out Tiquet.
  • Don't Forget Travel Photos
    • One of my favorite things to do is to get photos taken of me while on vacation. Flytographer is a great option with photographers all over the world.
  • Peace of Mind
    • It’s important to have some type of travel insurance to cover any unforeseen accidents, illnesses, threats, or cancellations. I always travel with insurance and would recommend SafetyWingSquareMouth or Travelex Insurance are good options.
    • Should you have any trouble with flight delays to the extent you feel you deserve compensation, I encourage you to check out and use AirHelp. I used them and for 1 claim I got compensated (transparency: a 2nd claim did not, but I was still glad I tried!).
  • Planning

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  1. I can see why living somewhere becoming popular could be annoying!

  2. I’ve never been to Paris, France has always been on my travel bucket list. I would likely really enjoy being in or near a bakery, I love the smell of freshly baked goods.

  3. Melanie Payne says:

    My parents were just in that area. They really enjoyed it ! Looks like a nice place to visit, and even to live!

  4. I have never been to Paris. I used to live in a European dominated area on top of a polish bakery. It was heavenly. I would love to visit Paris one day with J!

  5. I love getting the inside scoop on places to go. I am going to go to that coffee shop!

  6. I’ve never been to Paris but I have been to France. It’s great to get their perspective on living there.

  7. Annemarie LeBlanc says:

    We have been to Paris before but we have not explored this area. I will have to remember to do so next time. We have a trip planned for summer next year.

  8. CourtneyLynne says:

    Ahhhhhh it’s been a dream of mine to visit Paris! It’s crazy that I have been all over the world yet never Paris. Hopefully one day!

  9. I would love to one day visit Paris and now after reading this I want to even more thanks for sharing

  10. I love this area, so much to see and do. My favorite to visit would be Passage Jouffroy and Passage Panoramas (not in the 9th but right across the street.

  11. We’re heading to this very area in a month – can’t wait!