Guide to the Paris 17th Arrondissement: What to See, Do, Eat & Where to Stay (2026)

Paris 17th arrondissement is one of those neighborhoods that most visitors fly right past on their way to the Champs-Élysées or Montmartre. And honestly? That is exactly what makes it so good. Tucked into the northwest quadrant of the city, the 17eme spans three times the size of central Paris and holds a world of contrasts: grand Haussmannian boulevards near the Arc de Triomphe on one end, and the bohemian, village-like neighborhood of Batignolles on the other. Here you will find daily open-air markets, some of the city's most beloved neighborhood bistros, leafy parks, and a street-level Parisian life that feels entirely undiscovered.

I have a genuine soft spot for this arrondissement. For years, my husband and I have made it a tradition to spend our last night in Paris in the 17th arrondissement, staying at Le Méridien Étoile because the Air France bus to CDG stops directly across the street. It is deeply convenient, yes, but it also means I have had the chance to wander these streets more than in almost any other neighborhood in the city. One of my all-time favorite Paris restaurants (Comme Chez Maman) is here. It is one of the best open-air food markets I have ever browsed (Marche Poncelet). There is so much to love.

For this guide, I turned to Susan of Picturesque Voyages, a local expert who has lived in Batignolles and knows the 17th with the depth that only comes from actually calling a neighborhood home. Her insights appear throughout this guide as Susan's Take. She knows this neighborhood like a local because she is one.

What Is the 17th Arrondissement Like?

The 17th is a neighborhood of four distinct personalities. In the south, near Place Charles de Gaulle and the Arc de Triomphe, the arrondissement is thoroughly Haussmannian: wide avenues, limestone facades, elegant cafes with pressed white tablecloths, and the kind of polish you associate with the wealthiest corners of Paris. The Ternes and Plaine Monceau districts sit in this elegant zone, drawing well-heeled Parisians and families who want grand apartment buildings and proximity to the Bois de Boulogne.

Head north, and the energy shifts entirely. The Batignolles neighborhood, centered around the Square des Batignolles park and the Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois, has the feel of a village that somehow ended up inside one of Europe's great capitals. Cafes spill onto cobblestones, indie boutiques share blocks with cheese shops and wine caves, and on Saturday mornings the boulevard fills with one of the city's finest organic markets. To the northwest, the Epinettes quarter adds yet another layer: working-class roots, a younger crowd, and a growing creative energy that has attracted some of the 17th's most interesting new restaurants.

What ties all of this together is the near-total absence of tourist infrastructure. There are no major museums requiring timed tickets. No selfie crowds. No restaurants with laminated menus in six languages outside the door. The 17th is simply Paris, living its actual daily life.

Getting to the 17th Arrondissement

The 17th is well served by metro, with lines covering most of its territory. Here are the key options by area:

• Line 1: Charles de Gaulle-Étoile (southwest corner, near the Arc de Triomphe). Best for accessing the Ternes and Monceau districts.
• Line 2: Runs along much of the southern edge of the 17th. Key stops include Ternes, Courcelles, Monceau, Villiers, and Place de Clichy. This is the most useful line for reaching the Batignolles area without the crowds of Line 13.
• Line 3: Villiers and Rome are useful for the Monceau/Villiers area. Place de Clichy sits on the border of the 17th and 18th.
• Line 13: Brochant and La Fourche serve the heart of Batignolles. Note that Line 13 is notoriously crowded during peak hours.
• Line 14: Pont-Cardinet and Porte de Clichy serve the northern end of the arrondissement and connect directly to the airport line at Saint-Lazare.
• Transilien J: Pont-Cardinet and Pereire-Levallois stations are useful for reaching the Pereire and Cardinet areas.

The 17th also borders the 8th, 9th, 18th, and the suburb of Levallois-Perret, making it walkable to and from several popular neighborhoods. From the Arc de Triomphe end, you can walk to the Champs-Élysées in minutes. From the Batignolles, the 18th arrondissement and the foot of Montmartre are a pleasant stroll away.

Top Attractions and Things to Do in the 17th Arrondissement

Parc Monceau

Address: Boulevard de Courcelles, 75008 (main entrance; park borders the 17th)

One of Paris's most romantic parks, Parc Monceau sits on the border of the 8th and 17th arrondissements and is closely associated with the 17th in the minds of local residents. The park is a delight: an English-style garden with a gilded rotunda, a small lake, weeping willows, and scattered neoclassical follies, including a colonnade reflected in the water. It is where well-dressed Parisians bring their children after school, where nannies push prams, and where older residents read on iron benches under the chestnut trees.

The 17th also borders the 8th, 9th, 18th, and the suburb of Levallois-Perret, making it walkable to and from several popular neighborhoods. From the Arc de Triomphe end, you can walk to the Champs-Élysées in minutes. From the Batignolles, the 18th arrondissement and the foot of Montmartre are a pleasant stroll away.

Check out my full guide to Parc Monceau.

Parc Clichy-Batignolles Martin Luther King

Address: 147 Rue Cardinet

This is the 17th arrondissement's great urban renewal success story. Built on the site of old rail yards as part of an eco-district project, the Martin Luther King Park is a large, thoughtfully designed green space with lawns, water features, a skate park, climbing walls, and play areas for children. It is very much a living park rather than a formal garden: families picnic here, teenagers skate, joggers loop the paths. On a sunny afternoon, it captures exactly the kind of relaxed, community-rooted energy that makes Batignolles so appealing.

Tip: The outdoor terrace, HO: Summer Terrace by HOBA, operates inside the park during warmer months and is a lovely spot for a drink among the greenery.

Square des Batignolles

Address: 144 bis Rue Cardinet

The heart of the Batignolles neighborhood, this small English-style garden punches well above its size. A lake populated with ducks, geese, and waterfowl sits at the center, fed by a small waterfall. A carousel operates nearby for small children. The church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles borders one end, and the terrace of the Dose cafe sits right at the park's edge, making it easy to pick up a coffee and settle onto a bench. This is where you come to understand why Batignolles residents love their neighborhood so fiercely.

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

Address: 43 Avenue de Villiers

Even if you have never heard of 19th-century painter Jean-Jacques Henner, the museum dedicated to his work is worth a visit simply for the building. Installed in a graceful late-19th-century mansion, the permanent collection shows the artist's luminous, mythological canvases across high-ceilinged rooms that feel unchanged from the Belle Époque. It is small, rarely crowded, and offers a genuinely intimate experience of French academic painting in a residential neighborhood setting.

Cite de l'Économie (Citeco)

Address: 1 Place du Général Catroux

Housed in the spectacular Hote Gaillard, a Renaissance Revival mansion built in the 1880s for a prominent banker, Citeco is an interactive museum exploring the history and mechanics of money and economics. Even if economics sounds dry, the building alone justifies the visit: gilded staircases, painted ceilings, ornate ironwork. The museum has clearly been designed to engage visitors of all ages and backgrounds, and the contrast between the grand banking-era architecture and the contemporary, hands-on exhibits creates a genuinely memorable experience.

Art42, Musée d'Art Urbain

Address: 96 Bd Bessières

One of the most unusual museums in Paris, Art42 is a free street-art collection housed in a tech school. The works are large-scale, bold, and colorful, covering the walls of what would otherwise be a very utilitarian building. Entry requires an advance reservation and is not open to walk-ins. For anyone interested in contemporary street art and graffiti culture, it is a discovery well worth the planning.

Le BAL

Address: 6 Impasse de la Défense, 75018 (steps from Place de Clichy)

Le BAL is an unusual hybrid: part café, part gallery, part cultural space dedicated entirely to documentary photography, film, and video. The space hosts rotating exhibitions from some of the most compelling documentary image-makers working today. The attached café is a destination in its own right, popular for weekend brunches and afternoon coffee.

The Markets of the 17th Arrondissement

The open-air markets are, for many residents, what defines life in the 17th. More than any monument or museum. The Marche Poncelet stretches along Rue Poncelet and is open every day except Monday: cheese vendors, charcuterie stalls, fishmongers, florists, and specialty food shops line both sides of the street, and the quality is exceptional.

The organic Marche des Batignolles takes place every Saturday on Boulevard des Batignolles and is one of the city's oldest and best organic markets. And the covered Marché de Batignolles operates daily, with a fascinating Portuguese section. The lively Rue de Levis lends the Villiers neighborhood its own street-market atmosphere, even on non-market days.

Other spots worth your time in the 17th: the Cimetière des Chiens at 4 Pont de Clichy is a historic pet cemetery where dogs, cats, and other animals have been buried since 1899 and makes for a surprisingly moving visit. The Petit Ceinture, a former freight railway converted into a green walking and cycling path, runs along the western edge of the arrondissement and offers a genuinely off-the-beaten-path stroll.

The Cité des Fleurs on Avenue de Clichy is a private residential alley lined with gorgeous 19th-century homes and gardens that you can admire from the entrance. And Place de Clichy, where four arrondissements meet, has a lively, brasserie-lined square with a strong sense of old-Paris energy.

Where to Eat in the 17th Arrondissement

The 17th has a restaurant scene that punches consistently above its tourist profile. Because this is a deeply residential neighborhood, restaurants here compete for the loyalty of demanding local regulars rather than one-time visitors. The result is exceptional quality at every price point, with almost no tourist traps.

[Andi's Favorite!] Comme Chez Maman

Address: 5 Rue des Moines

This is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Paris, full stop. Chef Wim van Gorp revisits classic bistro cooking through a Flemish lens, resulting in dishes that feel simultaneously deeply French and playfully personal. The dining room is warm and unpretentious, the wine list is thoughtful, and the cooking rewards repeat visits. My family has eaten here numerous times, and it has never once disappointed. Book well in advance.

Petit Boutary

Address: 16 Rue Jacquemont

A true neighborhood gem and one of Susan's top dinner picks. Chef Jay runs an open kitchen with a relaxed, market-driven philosophy: instead of a traditional printed menu, he presents the day's selections of one or two plates built around local, seasonal ingredients. The result changes constantly and always feels fresh and purposeful. This is the sister restaurant to the well-known Left Bank Boutary.

Gare au Gorille

Address: 68 Rue des Dames

The chef at Gare au Gorille trained at Septime, which is all you really need to know. The cooking is intelligent, ingredient-led, and deeply satisfying. The room is casual and convivial in the best neighborhood restaurant tradition. Locals have been quietly filling this place for years, and it remains one of the best-value creative bistros in the arrondissement.

Caius

Address: 6 Rue d'Armaille

Chef Jean-Marc Notelet brings serious culinary craft to a refined but not stiff dining room. Caius offers the kind of experience where every detail has been considered without the atmosphere feeling fussy or intimidating. Susan cites it as a destination for a memorable dinner with exceptional cooking.

Au Petit Marguery

Address: 64 Avenue des Ternes

A classic French bistro done exactly right. Seasonal ingredients, traditional preparations, and genuinely unhurried service make this the ideal spot for the long, leisurely lunch that Parisian culture was invented to support.

Other strong options throughout the 17th:

• Coretta (151 Bis Rue Cardinet) — contemporary French with a refined touch
• L'Agape (51 rue Jouffroy d'Abbans) — Michelin-starred French cuisine
• Papillon (8 Rue Meissonier) — Nordic-influenced bistro menu with a Michelin star
• Le Bouchon et l'Assiette (127 rue Cardinet) — Michelin-starred traditional Basque country cooking
• Brasserie La Lorraine (2 Place des Ternes) — classic brasserie with impeccable service
• Faham (108 Rue Cardinet) — inventive cooking from a travel-loving Top Chef contestant
• Breizh Café Batignolles (31 Rue des Batignolles) — finest Breton buckwheat galettes and artisanal organic cider
• Mamma Primi (71 Rue des Dames) — Italian trattoria, part of the beloved Big Mamma group
• Frédéric Simonin (25 rue Bayen) — luxury setting and high-end French dishes
• Guy Savoy (18 rue Troyon) — three Michelin stars, for a truly special occasion
• L'Entredgeu (83 Rue Laugier) — seasonal bistro much adored by locals
• Bigarrade (106 rue Nollet) — one tasting menu, a series of small plates, always special
• Rech (62 Ave. des Ternes) — Alsatian brasserie with excellent seafood
• Cyril Lignac (9 rue Bayen) — world-famous pastry; go for the baba au rhum
• Oxte (5 Rue Troyon) — delicious Mexican, a neighborhood favorite
• Melt (83 Rue Legendre) — Texas BBQ in Paris, and it actually works
• Cucuzza (14 Rue des Moines) — wood-fired pizza
• Chez Fred Bistro Depuis 1945 (190 bis Bd Pereire) — classic French dishes in a warm vintage setting
• La Famiglia (2 rue Waldeck-Rousseau) — gourmet Italian
• Rural (2 Place de la Porte Maillot) — cuisine from the Haute Savoie region of France
• Jeffrey Cagnes Paris (24 Rue des Moines) — extraordinary pastries from the former chef of Maison Stohrer

Best Coffee Shops and Cafes in the 17th Arrondissement

Dose

Address: 82 Place du Dr Felix Lobligeois

Right on the edge of the Square des Batignolles, Dose is the neighborhood's undisputed coffee destination. Australian-influenced, specialty-focused, and always busy, it serves exceptional espresso and filter coffee, along with some of the best brunch options in the arrondissement. The terrace looking onto the park and the church is one of the most pleasant places to sit in the 17th on a good morning.

Bontemps

Address: 23 Rue Poncelet

A pastry shop and tea room with exceptional lunch and brunch options, Bontemps sits right on the Rue Poncelet market street, making it the perfect place to rest after a morning of market shopping. The pastries are inventive and refined, the savory options are equally good, and the light, airy space is genuinely beautiful.

Jeffrey Cagnes Bakery

Address: 24 Rue des Moines

Former pastry chef of the legendary Maison Stohrer, Jeffrey Cagnes, has created his own neighborhood destination that draws people from across the city. The Trop'Dog, praline babka, framboisier cake, and raspberry pavlova are all extraordinary. Plan to arrive hungry and leave with a box.

Maison Arnaud Delmontel

Address: 25 rue de Lévis

On the Rue de Levis market street, this traditional boulangerie and patisserie brings a modern, innovative approach to classic French pastry. It is the kind of bakery that reminds you how high the standard can be when a real craftsperson is behind the counter.

Other notable cafes and bakeries across the 17th:

• Doddy's Coffee Batignolles (Rue Mstislav Rostropovitch) — quiet ambiance and hearty food
• Kaffeehaus (11 rue Poncelet) — East German cakes with good coffee
• KL Patisserie (78 Av. de Villiers) — classic bakery and tea room
• Maison Kayser (51 rue Mstislav Rostropovitch) — artisanal bakery with traditional bread and gluten-free options
• MyLo (61 Rue Legendre) — multi-use space with solid coffee
• Noir (25 Rue Legendre) — eco-responsible roasted coffee served in beautiful ceramics
• Poilane (39 rue de Lévis) — go for the sourdough bread, stay for the butter cookies
• Scoop Me A Cookie (72 rue Legendre and 12 rue Brochant) — large, generously topped cookies
• Terres de Café (33 Rue des Batignolles) — specializing in European coffees

Bars in the 17th Arrondissement

Wim a Table

Address: 45 Rue des Moines

Susan's top pick for drinks in the 17th and a spot I would enthusiastically second. Chef Wim van Gorp, the same culinary mind behind Comme Chez Maman next door, runs this wine bar with the same attention to quality and flavor that defines his cooking. Savory tapas pair beautifully with a thoughtfully curated wine selection, and the atmosphere is warm and convivial without being noisy.

L'Ambre Bar

Address: 29 Rue Brunel

A chic, intimate cocktail bar run by Kevin, who spent years behind the bar at the luxury Crillon hotel before bringing his skills to this neighborhood spot. The cocktails are classic and precise. The atmosphere is convivial without being pretentious, and the space's history adds a layer of intrigue worth asking the bartender about.

Les Caves Populaires

Address: 22 Rue des Dames

The polar opposite of L'Ambre Bar, and equally appealing in its own way. A lively, unpretentious cave à vin where students and older locals share tables and cheap, convivial drinks. No fuss, no frills, just the easy warmth of a genuine neighborhood bar.

Other bars worth visiting:

• Les Paresseux (24 Rue des Dames) — cave à vins with small bites
• Les Vins des Dames (42 Rue des Dames) — rustic wine bar that also serves food
• Oh Bigre! (4 rue Bridaine) — cozy wine bar
• The Popular Caves (22 rue des Dames) — cocktails and wine
• Lush Bar (16 Rue des Dames) — a local hangout with a fun, welcoming atmosphere
• HO: Summer Terrace by HOBA (Parc Martin Luther King) — unmissable outdoor spot for sustainable food and drinks in the park

Where to Stay in the 17th Arrondissement

The 17th is an excellent base for Paris, particularly if you want proximity to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées without paying the rates of the 8th. The neighborhood's residential character means you will wake up to boulangeries and market streets rather than souvenir shops.

• Hotel Le Méridien Étoile (81 Blvd. Gouvion-Saint-Cyr) — my personal go-to for the last night of every Paris trip. The hotel is large, the rooms are comfortable, and the location near the Palais des Congrès (with an Angelina's inside!) is excellent.
• Hidden Hotel (28 Rue de l'Arc de Triomphe) — environmentally conscious with striking modern decor and a genuinely boutique feel despite being steps from the Arc de Triomphe.
• Hotel Regent's Garden (6 Rue Pierre Demours) — a historic mansion with a lovely garden, ideal for travelers who want a quieter, more refined Paris hotel experience.
• Les Jardins de la Villa (5 Rue Belidor) — a chic boutique hotel with a garden and library near the Palais des Congrès.
• Splendid Etoile (1 Avenue Carnot) — upscale and well-positioned near the Arc de Triomphe.

Shopping in the 17th Arrondissement

The best shopping in the 17th is not in malls or on famous retail avenues but on the neighborhood's own market streets and in its independent boutiques. Rue Poncelet and the surrounding streets around Ternes offer one of the best daily market street experiences in Paris, combining food stalls with specialty shops selling wine, chocolate, cheese, and charcuterie. The Batignolles neighborhood around Rue Legendre and Rue des Dames has a cluster of independent boutiques worth exploring.

• Edwart Chocolatier (67 Rue des Dames and 10 Rue Bayen) — exquisite handcrafted chocolates in a variety of inventive flavors
• Fédération Française de l'Apéro (50 Rue des Dames) — a specialty food shop to build your perfect apéro or picnic
• French Touche (90 rue Legendre) — handbags and accessories in a charming galerie d'objets format
• L'Atelier Haut Perche (29 Rue des Dames) — beautiful jewelry
• La Récolte (18 boulevard des Batignolles) — organic food market
• Le Coffre Vintage (20 rue des Dames) — curated vintage clothing
• Marche Poncelet (9 Rue Poncelet) — the essential food market street, open every day except Monday
• Paysan VRAC (20 rue Guy Môquet) — bulk grocery sourced from responsible local agriculture
• Wenhua Duvergé (31 Rue Legendre) — eco-conscious clothing
• Les Boutiques Du Palais at the Palais des Congrès (near Porte Maillot) — a full shopping mall for those who want mainstream retail options
• Cave en Terrasse (Rue de Lévis) — excellent wine selection
• Aux Douceurs d'Alys (Rue de Lévis) — handmade chocolate
• Fromage et Détail (Rue de Lévis) — outstanding cheese shop

What's New in the 17th Arrondissement (2025-2026)

The 17th has seen a remarkable burst of openings in 2025 and 2026, with several addresses already becoming neighborhood conversations. Here are the ones worth knowing about:

Hôtel La Fondation

Address: 11 Rue des Batignolles

The most significant opening in the 17th in years. Designed by the acclaimed firm Roman and Williams, Hotel La Fondation opened in May 2025 as a five-star property spanning more than 10,000 square meters across 7 floors, with 55 rooms and 3 suites, two restaurants, a rooftop bar with Eiffel Tower views, a spa, and a semi-Olympic swimming pool. Positioned between Parc Monceau and the Batignolles neighborhood, it brings a genuine luxury hotel anchor to an arrondissement that has long been underserved at this level. The rooftop bar alone has quickly become one of the neighborhood's more glamorous destinations for an evening drink.

Flonflon

Address: 2 Rue Brunel

A neo-bourgeois bistro just off the Champs-Élysées end of the arrondissement, Flonflon opened in 2025 and has quickly become a neighborhood favorite. Chef Pierre-Thomas Clement focuses on seasonal, generous, unfussy French cooking with a menu that changes every two months. The finger food menu is particularly good for after-work drinks.

Episodes

Address: 8 Rue Meissonier

A thoughtful bistronomic address in the heart of Batignolles, with a wood-paneled dining room and a menu centered on organic vegetables, carefully sourced proteins, and natural wines. Episodes opened in 2025 and have established themselves quickly through word of mouth, which tells you everything. Three or four starters, as many main courses as you like, one memorable dessert.

Le Grand Banquet

Address: 2 Pl de la Porte Maillot

In the Epinettes district, Le Grand Banquet breaks all the usual restaurant rules with communal long tables, shared dishes, and a joyful, loud, entirely convivial atmosphere. Suckling pig, roasted vegetables, creamy risotto, house-made bread. Come in a group, order everything, and expect to make friends with the people at the next table.

Vinello

Address: 106 Rue Nollet

Near Pereire, Vinello combines a proper wine cellar with a well-executed Italian trattoria. Puglia burrata, fresh pasta, risotto made to order, and an excellent selection of natural Piedmont wines. Evening reservations are essential, which tells you how quickly this one caught on after its 2025 opening.

Also worth noting: Zoku Paris (near Porte de Clichy, Metro Line 14) opened as a hybrid hotel and coworking destination aimed at business travelers and longer-stay visitors, with a rooftop restaurant and bar that has become a neighborhood social hub.

A Day in the 17th Arrondissement: Sample Itinerary

This itinerary covers the Batignolles neighborhood and its surroundings and is best on a Tuesday through Sunday (many markets are closed on Monday).

Morning

Start at the Marché Poncelet on Rue Poncelet: browse the cheese vendors, the fishmongers, and the specialty food stalls for as long as your appetite allows. Pick up provisions if you want a picnic later. Then walk to the Square des Batignolles and grab a coffee at Dose, sitting on the terrace with a view of the park and the Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church. Spend some time wandering the square's English-garden paths before heading to the Parc Clichy-Batignolles to experience the 17th's newer, greener face.

Midday

Lunch at Comme Chez Maman on Rue des Moines for a genuinely memorable meal, or at Gare au Gorille on Rue des Dames for something slightly more casual. After lunch, wander the Batignolles village streets: Rue Legendre, Rue des Dames, and the streets around Place du Dr Félix Lobligeois give you the full texture of what makes this neighborhood so appealing. Pop into any of the wine bars or specialty shops that catch your eye.

Afternoon

Head south toward the Parc Monceau area for a stroll through one of Paris's most elegant green spaces. If time permits, visit the Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner or the Cité de l'Economie at the Hôtel Gaillard, both of which are compact enough to enjoy in an hour. From there, walk back toward the Batignolles via Rue de Levis for a second look at the market street shops.

Evening

Aperitifs at Wim à Table on Rue des Moines before dinner. For dinner, book Petit Boutary for an intimate, chef-driven experience, my favorite spot, Comme Chez Maman, or try one of the newer addresses, such as Episodes or Flonflon. End the evening at L'Ambre Bar for a proper cocktail and a conversation with the bartender about the bar's history.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 17th Arrondissement

Insider Tips for the 17th Arrondissement

Visit Marche Poncelet on any day except Monday and go in the morning for the best selection. The cheese vendors and the charcuterie stalls are the highlights; the prices are higher than a supermarket but the quality is in a completely different league. If you are visiting on a Saturday, prioritize the organic market on Boulevard des Batignolles instead.

To get around, avoid Metro Line 13 during the morning and evening rush hours. The line connects Batignolles to the city center but is genuinely crowded at peak times. Lines 2 and 3 serve most of the same territory with far less stress.

Book Comme Chez Maman and Petit Boutary well in advance, particularly for dinner and particularly on weekends. Both are neighborhood institutions with devoted regulars, and walk-in tables are rarely available.

If you are in Paris for more than a few days and are staying in the 17th, make a point of visiting the Angelina cafe inside the Palais des Congrès mall. It is not the most famous Angelina location in Paris, but it is the least crowded, and the hot chocolate is identical.

The Promenade Pereire, sometimes called the neighborhood's mini-High Line, is a pleasant elevated walkway between Porte Maillot and Place du Maréchal Juin. It is neither long nor dramatic, but it is genuinely pleasant and almost entirely unknown to visitors.

Ready to Explore the 17th Arrondissement?

The 17th has a way of sneaking up on you. You arrive thinking you are just passing through on your way somewhere more famous, and then you find yourself sitting at the edge of the Square des Batignolles with a very good coffee and no particular desire to be anywhere else. That is the magic of this arrondissement: it is not performing for visitors; it is simply living its life, and when you settle into that rhythm, it is one of the best places in Paris to be.

Special thanks to Susan of Picturesque Voyages, a Paris-based tour guide and local expert in the 17th arrondissement.

How about you? Do you have any additions to the 17th arrondissement? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

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