Guide to Paris 13th Arrondissement: What to See, Do, Eat & Where to Stay in 2026

Paris 13th arrondissement is the part of the city that most visitors never quite get to, and that is exactly why it is worth your time. This is the home of the city's largest Asian quarter, a hilltop village called the Butte-aux-Cailles that feels like a secret, and a gleaming modern riverfront around the Bibliothèque Nationale de France that looks nothing like the Paris on the postcards. It escaped Baron Haussmann's grand boulevard makeover, so its streets still keep a village intimacy, and generations of artists have left their mark on its walls.

I will be honest with you. For years I skipped the 13th. I lived in the San Francisco Bay Area for nearly 30 years and traveled often to China and Japan, so I never felt the pull to seek out Asian food and shopping in Paris. That was a mistake, and I am fixing it. Now that I am based in Europe and not crossing the Pacific as often, the 13th is exactly where I want to be for a bowl of pho, a warm banh mi, and an afternoon of street art.

To show you the neighborhood the way a local sees it, I turned to Lena of Salut from Paris, who knows every corner of the 13ème. Her recommendations appear throughout this guide as Lena's Take. She knows this neighborhood like a local, because she is one.

What Is the 13th Arrondissement Like?

The 13th arrondissement is really three neighborhoods in one, and understanding that is the key to enjoying it. Around Place d'Italie, you have the Quartier Asiatique, the biggest Asian community in Paris, packed with supermarkets, food stalls, and some of the best Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, and Cambodian restaurants in the country. Climb the hill to the Butte-aux-Cailles, and you find cobbled lanes, tiny bars, and vivid street art that feel like a smaller, quieter Montmartre. Then head to the Seine and the whole mood changes again around the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, where glass towers and modern esplanades could pass for a slice of New York.

It is largely residential, which means it is lived in rather than staged for tourists, and prices for food and hotels tend to run gentler than in the center. The tradeoff is that it can get genuinely packed, especially around lunchtime on Sundays when everyone pours into the restaurants. The 13th suits travelers who want real Paris energy, excellent and affordable food, and a break from the crowds at the marquee monuments.

Getting to the 13th Arrondissement

The 13th is well connected, and which station you want depends on which of its three faces you are visiting.

• Place d'Italie (Lines 5, 6, and 7): the central hub of the arrondissement, best for the Asian quarter, the Italie 2 mall, and getting almost anywhere else in the district.
• Corvisart (Line 6): the closest stop to the Butte-aux-Cailles, with its cobbled streets and street art just a short walk uphill.
• Tolbiac, Maison Blanche, and Porte d'Ivry (Line 7): these run down Avenue de Choisy and Avenue d'Ivry, straight into the heart of Chinatown and its restaurants.
• Bibliothèque François Mitterrand (Line 14 and RER C): the fast, driverless Line 14 and the RER drop you right at the modern riverfront, the BnF, and the barge bars along the Seine.
• Les Gobelins (Line 7): handy for the tapestry manufactory and the leafy northern edge of the arrondissement.

The 13th sits directly south of the Latin Quarter, and the northern half is very walkable to the 5th arrondissement, so you can easily pair a morning in the Quartier Latin with an afternoon exploring here.

Top Attractions & Things to Do in the 13th Arrondissement

The 13th rewards wandering more than ticking off monuments, but there are several standout stops that anchor a visit.

The Butte-aux-Cailles

Address: Rue de la Butte aux Cailles and Rue des Cinq Diamants

This little hilltop village is the soul of the 13th, a warren of cobbled lanes lined with bistros, wine bars, and some of the finest street art in Paris. It sits on old limestone quarries, which is why no towers were ever built here and why it kept its low buildings and village feel. Come for a slow stroll, a coffee on a terrace, and the murals that seem to turn up on every corner.

Chinatown and the Quartier Asiatique

Address: Around Avenue de Choisy, Avenue d'Ivry, and Rue de Tolbiac

Paris's largest Asian quarter is less a single Chinatown than a crossroads of Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Cambodian, and Laotian cultures. The streets are lined with authentic restaurants, tea shops, and supermarkets where the local community actually shops and eats, which is exactly why the food is so good. Wander the avenues, duck into a grocery for exotic fruit, and let the smell of grilling meat and fresh herbs guide you.

Check out How to Celebrate Chinese New Year in Paris if you visit in January/February!

Bibliothèque Nationale de France (François Mitterrand)

Address: Quai François Mauriac

The French National Library is the centerpiece of the modern 13th, four glass towers shaped like the letter L and designed to look like open books standing over a vast wooden esplanade. Students, skaters, and office workers fill the plaza, and the building hosts genuinely worthwhile exhibitions along with the famous Globes of Coronelli. Even if you do not go inside, the scale and the skyline are worth the trip.

Street Art and Galerie Itinerrance

Address: 24 bis Boulevard du Général Jean Simon

The 13th has quietly become the outdoor street-art capital of Paris, thanks in large part to the Galerie Itinerrance, which has commissioned enormous murals on the facades of more than 80 buildings across the district. Look up as you walk and you will spot everything from towering painted portraits to tiny Invader mosaics tucked into the brickwork. It is a free art walk you can do on your own, and it changes every time you visit.

Square des Peupliers and the Hidden Villas

Address: Square des Peupliers, off Rue du Moulin des Prés

Tucked away from the main streets, the Square des Peupliers is a curving cobbled lane lined with houses draped in ivy and flowers, a photographer's dream and one of the most charming corners in the whole city. Nearby, you will find more of these leafy, hidden passages, like the Rue des Glycines, with its wisteria and quiet village calm. They are the kind of places you only find if you know to look, or if a local points you there.

Manufacture des Gobelins

Address: 42 Avenue des Gobelins

Founded under Louis XIV in 1662, the Gobelins tapestry workshop still weaves and repairs the tapestries that hang in French châteaux and public buildings. You can take a guided tour to watch the artisans at work on looms that have barely changed in centuries. It is a rare, living link to the 13th's long history as a district of craft and industry.

Piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles and Piscine Joséphine Baker

Address: 5 Place Paul Verlaine (Butte-aux-Cailles) and Quai François Mauriac (Joséphine Baker)

The 13th has two of the most characterful pools in Paris. The Art Deco Butte-aux-Cailles pool is fed by a natural spring and, in a very 13th twist, partly heated by excess warmth from nearby data center servers. Down on the river, the Joséphine Baker pool floats on a barge on the Seine, with a retractable roof and a sun deck that makes a summer swim feel like a small holiday.

Other spots worth a visit in the 13th:

• Cité de la Mode et du Design (Docks en Seine) (34 Quai d'Austerlitz) with its rippling green glass shell
• Les Frigos (91 Quai de la Gare), former refrigerated meat lockers turned artist studios
• Parc Montsouris (2 Rue Gazan)
• Parc Kellermann on the southern edge
• Byzantine and Romanesque Église Sainte-Anne (188 Rue de Tolbiac)
• Dragon Fountain on Place Augusta Holmes
• Place Paul Verlaine with its natural spring water tap

Where to Eat in the 13th Arrondissement

If you eat in only one arrondissement in Paris for Asian food, make it this one. The 13th has the best Vietnamese, Thai, and Cambodian cooking in the city, alongside classic French bistros up in the Butte-aux-Cailles. Here are the places to start.

Lao Lane Xang 2

Address: 102 Avenue d'Ivry

This Thai and Lao restaurant is a neighborhood institution and even earns a nod from the Michelin Guide. It is the kind of place locals return to again and again, and the crispy rice salad alone is worth the trip. Expect a lively room and generous, deeply flavored plates.

Tang Gourmet

Address: 188 Avenue de Choisy

On the surface, this is a simple Asian deli with the usual chicken, fried rice, and spring rolls, but the reason to come is the banh mi. Lena calls it the best in Paris, and the beef with lemongrass version, the boeuf citronelle, is the one to order. Grab one to go and eat it on a walk through Chinatown.

La Felicità

Address: 5 Parvis Alan Turing

A sprawling Italian food hall set in a former railway depot, Felicità serves excellent pizza, fresh pasta, and generous salads in a buzzing, communal setting. It works for a relaxed lunch or an easy dinner, and there is a great coffee bar too. It is one of Lena's picks for both breakfast and lunch.

Chez Gladines

Address: 30 Rue des Cinq Diamants

Up in the Butte-aux-Cailles, Chez Gladines is the beloved Basque bistro that everyone eventually ends up at, famous for huge portions, salads served in bowls the size of your head, and a warm, noisy atmosphere. It is hearty, affordable, and quintessentially local. Go hungry and be ready to wait at peak times.

Le Temps des Cerises

Address: 18 to 20 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles

An unpretentious bistro run as a workers' cooperative since 1976, Le Temps des Cerises is as much a piece of Butte-aux-Cailles history as it is a restaurant. The cooking is honest, traditional French, and the steamed mussels are the local favorite. Come for the setting and the neighborly spirit as much as the plate.

Other good food options:

• Pho 14. Address: 129 Avenue de Choisy. Widely loved for authentic Vietnamese pho.
• Pho Tai. Address: 13 Rue Philibert Lucot. A tiny spot serving some of the best pho in the quarter.
• Tricotin. Address: 15 Avenue de Choisy. A bustling canteen for authentic Cambodian and Chinese dishes.
• Le Bambou. Address: 70 Rue Baudricourt. A local legend known for its soups.
• Mondol Kiri. Address: 159 Avenue de Choisy. Another excellent Cambodian option.
• Thai Royal. Address: 97 Avenue d'Ivry. Elegant Thai, great for a romantic dinner.
• Chez Nathalie. Address: 45 Rue Vandrezanne. Original, creative poke bowls.
• Chez Mamane. Address: 27 Rue des Cinq Diamants. Delicious Algerian specialties.
• Le Prétexte. Address: 111 Rue de Tolbiac. A traditional French brasserie.
• Palais de Krishnaa. Address: 16 Rue du Père Guérin. Authentic Indian cuisine.
• LÜKS Kebab Paris 13. Address: 6 Rue du Père Guérin. A delicious artisanal kebab.
• Des Crêpes et Des Cailles. Address: 13 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles. A great little crêpe spot.
• Paris-Breizh Place d'Italie. Address: 166 Boulevard Vincent Auriol. One of my favorite crêpe shops anywhere has an outpost in the 13th.
• Le Camion Qui Fume. Address: 132 Avenue de France. The food truck that kickstarted the Paris burger scene, now with a spot here.
• Too TacTac. Address: 65 Rue Bruneseau. Cocktails and great food in a sky bar with panoramic views.
• La Dame de Canton. Address: Port de la Gare. A junk boat on the Seine for dinner, drinks, and a seasonal terrace.
• Petit Bain. Address: 7 Port de la Gare. A barge turned restaurant, bar, and concert venue with a rooftop terrace.

Best Coffee Shops & Cafés in the 13th Arrondissement

Coffee culture in the 13th ranges from serious specialty roasters to Asian tea houses and bubble tea counters. These are the ones worth seeking out.

Boba Tea + Coffee

Address: 3 Avenue d'Ivry

Right in the spirit of the 13th's Asian community, this is Lena's favorite place for bubble tea in all of Paris. It is a quick, cheerful stop between meals in Chinatown, and a fun one to pair with a stroll down Avenue d'Ivry.

Chez Nénesse

Address: Rue de la Butte aux Cailles

Nothing fancy, and that is the point. Chez Nénesse sits on a little intersection right in the heart of the Butte-aux-Cailles, and its terrace is one of the nicest places in the quarter to sit with a coffee and watch village life go by.

L'Oisive Thé

Address: 8 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles

A cozy tearoom in the Butte-aux-Cailles with an enormous selection of teas, homemade cakes, and brunch. It is a calm, welcoming spot to warm up on a grey afternoon, and a lovely counterpoint to the neighborhood's busier bars.

More cafés and tea shops:

• Felicità (5 Parvis Alan Turing) for an excellent coffee bar
• Cayo Café (9 Rue de Chevaleret) coffee roasters
• L'Arobase (101 Rue de Chevaleret) for delicious cakes and coffee
• L'Empire des Thés (101 Avenue d'Ivry) an elegant Asian tea shop
• Laurent Duchêne (2 Rue Wurtz) for a superb chocolate croissant
• Maison Kayser (15 Avenue Pierre Mendès-France) for artisanal bread, including options without gluten

Bars in the 13th Arrondissement

Nightlife in the 13th splits between the cozy bars of the Butte-aux-Cailles and the party barges moored along the Seine. There is something here for a quiet pint and for a late night on the water.

L'Age d'Or

Address: 26 Rue du Docteur Magnan

Lena's favorite bar in the 13th, and an easy one to fall for. It is a quirky, warmly cluttered space that feels like drinking in your grandmother's kitchen, with frequent concerts, exhibitions, and beer that is refreshingly gentle on the wallet by Paris standards.

La Folie en Tête

Address: 21 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles

A Butte-aux-Cailles institution, this bohemian bar is decorated with vintage instruments and oddments and draws a friendly, mixed crowd. It is the kind of relaxed neighborhood haunt where an early drink can easily turn into a whole evening.

Other bars worth visiting:

• Le Merle Moqueur (Rue de la Butte aux Cailles) for cheap flavored rum
• Sputnik (14 to 16 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles) a relaxed bar with screens and events
• Biérocratie (at 32 Rue de l'Espérance) a French and American craft beer shop and bar
• Batofarn (at 11 Quai François Mauriac) the boat club topped with a lighthouse
• El Alamein (Quai François Mauriac) a houseboat bar

Where to Stay in the 13th Arrondissement

The 13th is a smart base for travelers who want good value and a local feel while staying within easy reach of the Latin Quarter and the Seine. These hotels span boutique charm to boldly designed statement stays.

• COQ Hotel Paris (15 Rue Edouard Manet) A boutique hotel built around community and quality, with a warm, personal feel.
• Grand Hotel des Gobelins (57 Boulevard Saint-Marcel) A comfortable, classic choice right by the metro.
• Hotel B55 (55 Rue Boussingault) A contemporary hotel near Parc Montsouris with a real love of wine.
• Hotel Henriette (9 Rue des Gobelins) A small boutique hotel with a charming Scandinavian aesthetic.
• Hotel Off Paris Seine (86 Quai d'Austerlitz) A floating hotel and bar on the Seine, complete with a plunge pool.
• La Manufacture (8 Rue Philippe De Champagne) Small but modern rooms near Place d'Italie.
• TOO Hotel. (65 Rue Bruneseau) A Philippe Starck design occupying the top floors of one of the tallest buildings in Paris.
• Villa Lutèce Port Royal (52 Rue Jenner) A stylish boutique near the National Library.

Shopping in the 13th Arrondissement

Shopping in the 13th is refreshingly unpretentious, a mix of big malls, specialist Asian supermarkets, quirky neighborhood boutiques, and outdoor markets. It is a place to browse for ingredients and oddities rather than luxury labels.

The huge Italie 2 mall at Place d'Italie covers every mainstream brand, while the smaller Galerie Massena in the heart of the Asian quarter hides specialized shops you will not find elsewhere. For food and finds, seek out these local favorites:

• Frères Tang (168 Avenue de Choisy) The famous Asian supermarket, a wonderland of ingredients.
• Les Abeilles (21 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles) A delightful shop themed around bees and devoted to honey.
• La Cave du Moulin Vieux (4 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles) A generously stocked neighborhood wine cellar.
• Marché Jeanne d'Arc (Place Jeanne d'Arc) An outdoor food market on Thursday and Sunday mornings.
• Marché Auguste Blanqui (Boulevard Auguste Blanqui) One of the best market strolls in the district, on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday mornings.
• Outdoor market at Maison Blanche (Avenue d'Italie) A lively market on Thursday and Sunday mornings.

What's New in the 13th Arrondissement (2026)

The 13th's food scene continues to evolve, especially in the Asian quarter. Here are some of the newest openings worth building into your visit.

Cơm Niêu Quán

Address: 86 Avenue de Choisy

This charming Vietnamese restaurant, run by a family, is a step up from the neighborhood's usual canteens, with hand-painted frescoes of the Vietnamese countryside on the walls and a menu that strives for authenticity. Alongside classics like pho and bo bun, you will find rarer specialties that are hard to track down elsewhere in the quarter, all at gentle prices. It has quickly become a local favorite since opening.

Viet 1331

Address: 86 Avenue d'Ivry

On the corner of Avenue d'Ivry and Rue Baudricourt, Viet 1331 is a playful new Vietnamese spot that pairs affordable, delicious plates of pho, nems, and bo bun with a twist: hidden karaoke rooms for dessert. Open without a break from late morning to midnight, it captures the noisy, joyful energy of a Vietnamese street. Come for dinner and a song.

Chiv's Koy

Address: Rue Véronèse

This popular fried chicken spot has expanded into a larger street-food space on Rue Véronèse, serving crispy, boldly seasoned chicken to a devoted local following. It is a fun, casual stop for a quick and satisfying bite between sightseeing. Expect a queue at peak times, and know it is worth it.

A Day in the 13th Arrondissement: Sample Itinerary

Morning. Start at Les Gobelins and tour the Manufacture des Gobelins to watch the weavers at work, then walk south into the Butte-aux-Cailles. Wind through the cobbled lanes of Rue de la Butte aux Cailles and Rue des Cinq Diamants, coffee in hand from Chez Nénesse, hunting for street art as you go.

Midday. Head down to Chinatown for lunch. Grab a banh mi to go from Tang Gourmet on Avenue de Choisy, or sit down for a meal at Lao Lane Xang 2, which is noted in the Michelin guide. Browse the Frères Tang supermarket afterward for edible souvenirs.

Afternoon. Make your way to the river and the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Wander the esplanade, catch an exhibition, and if the weather is warm, book a swim on the floating Piscine Joséphine Baker. Stop by the green glass Cité de la Mode et du Design along the Quai d'Austerlitz.

Evening. Return to the Butte-aux-Cailles for dinner, mussels at Le Temps des Cerises or a big Basque plate at Chez Gladines, then settle in for a drink at L'Age d'Or or La Folie en Tête. If you still have energy, cross to the Seine for a late night on one of the barge bars like Batofar.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 13th Arrondissement

Insider Tips for the 13th Arrondissement

Time your Chinatown meals carefully. The restaurants around Avenue de Choisy get packed at lunch, especially on Sundays, so arrive early or plan a late lunch to avoid the worst of the crowds.

Look up as you walk. The best of the 13th's street art is on the upper floors of building facades, so keep your eyes above the shopfronts, particularly around the Boulevard Vincent Auriol and the streets near the Galerie Itinerrance.

Bring an empty tote to the Asian supermarkets. Frères Tang and the smaller groceries are full of teas, sauces, and snacks that make far more interesting souvenirs than anything on the Champs-Élysées, and they cost a fraction of the price.

Combine the 13th with the Latin Quarter. The northern edge of the arrondissement is an easy walk from the 5th, so you can pair the two in a single day, serious sightseeing in the morning and great cheap food in the afternoon.

Ready to Explore the 13th Arrondissement?

The 13th is proof that the best of Paris is not always where the guidebooks point you. In one afternoon you can slurp the best pho in the city, wander a hilltop village of cobbles and murals, swim on a barge on the Seine, and stand in the shadow of glass towers shaped like open books. It is diverse, delicious, and gloriously free of tourists, and once you have been, you will understand why locals like Lena never want to leave. I am just sorry it took me so long to fall for it too.

Other Arrondissement Guides

Arrondissement Guide | 1st | 2nd | 3rd | 4th | 5th | 6th | 7th | 8th | 9th | 10th | 11th | 12th | 14th | 15th | 16th | 17th | 18th | 19th | 20th

Special thanks to Lena of Salut from Paris, a travel writer based in Paris and local expert on the 13th arrondissement.

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