Passage Couvert Paris – the Secret World of Passages in Paris

Covered passages in Paris, also called Paris passages (or les passages couverts in French), are typically not something people visit on their first time in Paris. They are unlikely to discover this secret world just at their fingertips unless they've been on Instagram, which has changed the world we live in and the Paris I am familiar with.

And there is so much more to them than a pretty photo. The passages are places to eat, drink, shop, and wander, little worlds under glass where you can happily lose an afternoon.

Mr. Misadventures and I often wander les passages de Paris in the morning all alone, like mini ghost towns, taking photos at will and enjoying the emptiness. 

As usual, I digress! I wanted to provide a little background as to why these little pieces of hidden Paris are precious.

Don't miss these hidden treasures! Paris passages are magical.

Truth is, many first-time visitors still come to Paris with high expectations: they are finally going to visit the city of their dreams, the one they have read about in novels, seen in movies, and so on. Of course, the real Paris is a little different. 

Paris can be dirty, and its inhabitants are not always the most welcoming toward wide-eyed foreign tourists. Besides, many areas are a far cry from the typical postcard. After all, it is not a museum or a Hollywood backdrop. It is a major capital city with its ups and downs that you learn to love, or at least live with. 

However, there are plenty of pockets that seem to be frozen in time. Some of them are well-known and attract hordes of tourists. Others are still flying under the radar and will make you fall in love with Paris all over again. One of these attractions that keeps me coming back is the covered passages (les passages couverts).

History of the covered passages

Toward the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century, town planners organized an entire system of passages (or shopping arcades) in the major retail areas around the Louvre and the Grands Boulevards. Often richly decorated with mosaics and glass ceilings, they were conceived to protect the pedestrians from the elements and the hustle of surrounding streets.

They soon became the fashionable place to see and be seen, especially among upper and upper-middle-class ladies, with art galleries, cafes, and refined boutiques. At the height of the trend, Paris included over 140 passages, many connected to each other.

However, things changed when Haussmann dramatically changed the urban landscape of the City of Light between 1852 and 1870. Many of the passages were destroyed during the extensive redevelopment undertaken at the time. The others lost their appeal as the Grands Magasins like the Galeries Lafayette, Le Printemps, or the Bon Marché became more and more popular.

In the decades that followed, many of the passages fell into disrepair. They were not rediscovered until the 1970s when luxury brand Kenzo opened a boutique in Passage Choiseul. In recent years, many have been painstakingly restored into Art Nouveau works like they once were.

Of the more than 140 passages that once wove through the city, only around 25 survive today, and most of them sit in the 2nd arrondissement. That concentration is a gift, because it means you can link several together in a single afternoon and see centuries of Paris history without ever getting on the metro. If you want to plan the walk district by district, my full guide to Paris and the arrondissement guides pair perfectly with this list.

Blink, and you feel like you might find yourself among ladies in sweeping dresses and prosperous merchants twirling their mustaches. Others are more utilitarian but still serve the purposes for which they were built: a covered passage where retailers and customers can do business without worrying about the elements.

Here is a list of the surviving covered passages in Paris. With most of them located in the second arrondissement, it is the perfect way to stroll into Paris' history on a rainy day. Many of them are closed in the evening and on the weekends. Check before setting your heart on one.

The Best Paris Passages

If you only have time for a few, start with Galerie Vivienne, Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, and Galerie Vero-Dodat. They are the most beautiful and the easiest to string together on foot, and between them you get the full range, from grand mosaic elegance to lively old-world charm. Everything else on this list is a wonderful bonus once you are hooked.

Map of Paris Passages

Thanks to Ed Coleman of Coleman's Concierge for the map above!

Covered Passages Paris in the 1st arrondissement

Galeries du Palais Royal

The Galeries is an oasis of calm in an otherwise bustling area. They include several sections surrounding the gardens of the Palais Royal. Once upon a time, it was home to prostitutes and cabarets. Nowadays, you will find luxury boutiques with names like Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, or Pierre Hardy, and restaurants, including  Le Grand Vefour.

Address: 2 Place Colette.
Nearest metro: Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal Musée du Louvre on Line 1 or 7.

Galerie Vero-Dodat

The Galerie owes its name to the two butchers who built it in 1826. It is one of the most elegant passages in Paris and was completely restored in 1997. Although it is relatively short, it feels a lot longer (and grander) thanks to the perspective given by the black and white diamond-shaped marble paving and the dark wood arcades of the window displays. It is home to elegant boutiques, art galleries, a traditional brasserie, and the giant of luxury shoes: Louboutin.

Address: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau to 2 rue Bouloi. Open Monday to Saturday, except on holidays, from 7 am – 10 pm.
Nearest metro: Palais Royal Musée du Louvre on Line 1 or 7.

Passage des Deux-Pavillons

So-called because of the two pavilions framing its entrance, it is the smallest passage couvert in Paris.  Built in the 1820s, it offers an exceptional acoustic. Professional opera singers have been known to perform impromptu concerts for lucky bystanders, especially on Sunday afternoons around 4 pm.

Address: 6 rue de Beaujolais to 5 rue des Petits-Champs.
Nearest metro: Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Line 1 or 7.

Paris Passages in the 2nd arrondissement

Passage Ben-Aïad

Passage Ben-Aïad is the last remnant of the once-famous Passage du Saumon. It was the setting of decadent balls and bloody riots in the nineteenth century. Unfortunately, it is now closed to the public.

Address: 9-11 rue Leopold-Bellan to 8 rue Bachaumont
Nearest metro: Franklin Roosevelt on Line 1, Havre-Caumartin on Line 9 or Sentier on Line 3 (Exit at 2|R. Des Petits Carreaux).

Passage du Bourg-L’Abbé

Built in 1828, the Passage du Bourg-L’Abbé has known both highs and lows. Some beautiful remnants, such as its frescoes and the Caryatids that guard the entrance, stand as witnesses to its glorious past. However, it was poorly maintained in the 1980s, as the boutiques were used as warehouses. It was even the victim of a fire in the 1990s.

Thankfully, it has been painstakingly renovated between 2002 and 2008. Nowadays, it is home to art galleries, offices, and old-fashioned trades. It is a lot less dazzling than some of its better-known neighbors, but also very charming with the painted window displays advertising the names of long-gone businesses.

Address: 120 rue de Saint-Denis to 3 rue Palestro. Open Monday to Saturday, except on holidays, from 7.30 am to 7:30 pm.
Nearest metro: Chatelet on Line 14 or Etienne Marcel on Line 4.

Passage du Caire

It may not be the prettiest covered passage in Paris, but it is the longest, with a total of 370 m (1200 ft) covered arcades, and it's the oldest (built in 1789). Located in the heart of the Sentier, a well-known textile business district, it is very much a working area, with most of the tenants being ready-to-wear wholesalers.

With its busy professionals, narrow alleys, and six different entrances, it is difficult not to compare it to a hive.

Address: 237-239 rue Saint-Denis – 14,34 44 rue du Caire – 2 Place du Caire – 33 rue d’Alexandrie. Open Monday to Friday, from 7 am to 6:30 pm.
Nearest metro: Réaumur-Sébastopol (Exit at 3|R. Saint-Denis) on Line 4.

Passage du Ponceau

Like the Passage du Caire nearby, the Passage du Ponceau was built to accommodate the needs of the working class rather than idle housewives with plenty of disposable income. There were few original embellishments, and most of them disappeared – like so many other Parisian-covered passages – in the decades that followed their fall into disgrace.

The Passage du Ponceau is now primarily used as a shortcut between rue Saint-Denis and Boulevard de Sebastopol, with a few charmless stores thrown in for good measure. The aesthetic is a product of the 1970s, and, sadly, very little of the original elements remains.

Address: 212, rue Saint-Denis – 119, boulevard de Sébastopol. Open Monday to Friday, from 8 am to 7 pm.
Nearest metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (Exit at 5|R. Saint-Denis) on Line 9.

Passage de Choiseul

_{Passage de Choiseul covered passage in Paris's 2nd arrondissement.}

At 190 m, it is one of the longest-covered arcades in Paris. With its minimalist décor, it is more akin to a covered street than to an Art Nouveau jewelry box, as some of its neighbors remind me. Its history is linked to the theater (there is a secondary exit to the Théâtre Bouffe in the alley) and literature.

Ferdinand Céline, a famous French writer, lived there as a child, and the passage – then in pretty rough shape – makes its appearance as the “Passage des Beresinas” in its book Mort à Crédit (Death on the Installment Plan in English).

Thankfully, it has been entirely renovated in the past couple of years. The editor of some of the major poets and writers of the nineteenth century also held a shop here. It significantly contributed to the rediscovery of Paris-covered passages since it was home – for a time – to the Kenzo store.

Address: 40, rue des Petits Champs – 23, rue Saint-Augustin. Open Monday to Saturday, from 8 am – 8 pm.
Nearest metro: Pyramides on Lines 7 and 14.

Passage Sainte-Anne

This short passage, built in 1829, opens onto Passage Choiseul.

Address: 59, rue Sainte-Anne.
Nearest metro: Pyramides on Lines 7 and 14.

Galerie Colbert

_{Passage Colbert covered passage in Paris's 2nd arrondissement.}

Connected to its neighbor and rival Galerie Vivienne (more on this one later), the Galerie Colbert has the particularity of not holding any shops. It is a temple of knowledge and art history, being home to the Institut National d’Histoire de l’Art (INHA), the Institut National du Patrimoine (INP), and several university research labs and doctoral schools dedicated to French architectural heritage.

Thankfully, it is open to the public, so you can still admire its massive glass rotunda and lavish neoclassical décor.

You may get the feeling that you are walking in the steps of the Parisians from the Belle-Époque, but you would be (kind of) mistaken. The Galerie Colbert has a tumultuous history, mostly marked by disappointments for unlucky investors. It was originally built in 1826 to compete with the widely successful Galerie Vivienne next door.

No expenses were spared. However, the Galerie failed to find its public and slowly disappeared into oblivion. By the 1920s, access to the Galerie was condemned.

The materials used to imitate Pompeian architecture, which was all the rage at the time, were not meant to last. Think plaster (a Parisian invention) and wood décor, velum on the glass rotunda… You can guess where this is going. By the time Parisian galleries were rediscovered in the 1970s, Galerie Colbert was beyond repair.

In 1983, it was torn down to be painstakingly rebuilt identically in 1985. To enjoy a glimpse into le Beau Paris, have lunch or dinner at the Grand Colbert, an elegant brasserie straight out of a nineteenth-century novel.

Address: 6, rue des Petits Champs – 2 rue Vivienne.
Nearest metro: Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre Line 1 or 7.

Galerie Vivienne

_{Galerie Vivienne covered passage in Paris's 2nd arrondissement.}

Type “Parisian covered passage” on Pinterest, and you will likely end up with countless pictures of the Galerie Vivienne. It is a favorite among the Instagram crowd, and who could blame them? With its light-flooded arcades, iconic swirling mosaics, and fancy boutiques, it is undeniably the most elegant and recognizable passage couvert in Paris. If you can only visit one, Galerie Vivienne is probably the way to go.

The original investors would be proud of this continued success since the Galerie Vivienne was conceived from the very beginning to be the crème de la crème of covered passages. From the fancy décor to the upscale boutiques, everything was thought out to attract the upper-crust clientele from the nearby Palais Royal.

And what a success it was. Unfortunately, trends change, and the Galerie Vivienne was more or less forgotten. By the 1960s, most of the boutiques had closed their doors, and the arcade was in serious disrepair.

However, it was rediscovered in the 1970s by artist Huguette Spengler, who bought back some of the stores to set up her avant-garde art installations. In 1986, Jean-Paul Gautier opened his flagship store in the Galerie, bringing it back to the forefront of the fashion scene.

Between the elegant tea houses, high-end fashion boutiques, and upscale specialized stores (including a legendary wine store), the upper-crust ladies of the Belle Epoque would feel like nothing much had changed in the Galerie Vivienne.

Address: 4, rue des Petits Champs – 5, rue de la Banque – 6, rue Vivienne. Open daily, roughly 8 am to early evening. Hours can shift, so confirm before you visit.
Nearest metro: Bourse Line 3 or Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Line 1 or 7.

Passage du Grand Cerf

Le Passage du Grand-Cerf can undoubtedly hold its own compared to better-known covered arcades in Paris. Besides, it is a bit off the beaten track, which makes it the perfect stop if you are looking for a respite from the crowds. It is the highest of Parisian covered passages, with three stories under the vertiginous roof and charming iron balconies.

It is a favorite among Parisians who enjoy this light-flooded arcade, with its charming boutiques and its distinct lack of tourists. Like many other passages, it was almost torn down in the 1980s. Thankfully, it was carefully renovated and has now been brought back to its former glory. Its décor is undoubtedly more sober than some other passages, but its simplicity only reinforces its peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.

Address: 145, rue Saint-Denis – 10  rue Dussoubs. Open Monday to Saturday from 8.30 am – 8.30 pm.
Nearest metro: Étienne-Marcel on Line 4.

Passage des Panoramas

_{Passage des Panoramas covered passage in Paris's 2nd arrondissement.}

The oldest of the remaining Parisian covered arcades (along with the Passage du Caire) is another favorite. Built in 1799, it has preserved its historical charm for over two centuries. You can still enjoy the original light fixtures and décor, from woodwork to store signs that have long since disappeared.

Even without the fancy mosaic and other ornaments you can see elsewhere, the busy atmosphere will take you in and send you back in time. The Passage des Panoramas is a piece of heaven for food lovers and collectors. With its specialty food stores, small eateries, and boutiques selling everything from stamps and coins to old postcards, photographs, and odd collectibles, it has something for every lover of Paris from days gone by.

Address: 11-13, boulevard Montmartre – 151, rue Montmartre. Open daily; the passage and its restaurants keep long hours, but confirm current times before you go.
Nearest metro: Richelieu-Drouot or Grands Boulevards on Lines 8 and 9.

Passage des Princes

By the 1860s, the golden age of covered passages was already over. And yet, developers managed to sneak in a last one: the Passage Mires (present-day Passage des Princes). Despite a brief financial success, the Passage soon suffered the same fate as many other Parisian covered arcades. It was torn down in 1985.

However, in a surprising turn of events, it was rebuilt ten years later, retaining several original architectural elements, such as the 1930s glass cupola and the wrought-iron structure of the glass ceiling. Nowadays, the tenants are primarily toys and video game dealers that will delight the young and young at heart.

Address: 5, Boulevard des Italiens – 97-99, rue de Richelieu. Open Monday to Saturday, from 8 am – 8 pm.
Nearest metro: Richelieu-Drouot (Exit at 2|R. de Richelieu) on Line 8 or 9.

Covered Passages Paris in the 3rd arrondissement

Passage Molière

Strictly speaking, the Passage Molière is not a covered passage since it lacks the “covered” element. However, with its cobblestones and wooden facades, it would be a shame not to include it in this guide of covered passages. It's a great spot to get a taste of historical Paris.

Address: 82, rue Quincampoix – 157, rue Saint-Martin.
Nearest metro: Rambuteau (Exit 1|Centre Georges Pompidou) on Line 11.

Passage Vendôme

If some of the Paris-covered passages have managed to regain some of their former glory despite several reverses of fortune, it is sadly not the case for others. Open in 1827, the Passage Vendȏme hasn't found its public despite some renovations in 2005.

Most of the stores sit empty, and the passage shows signs of disuse despite the proximity of the popular Place de la République. Let’s hope this passage, which retains its elegant arcades, will one day get its fairy tale ending as well.

Address: 3, place de la République – 16-18, rue Béranger. Open Monday to Friday from 7.15 am to 8 pm and on Saturdays from 8 am – 8 pm.
Nearest metro: République (Exit at 2|R. du Temple) on Line 8 or 9.

More about the 3rd arrondissement from a local.

Passages in the 6th arrondissement

Cour du Commerce-Saint-André

There are few places as charming as the Cour du Commerce-Saint-André, located in the heart of the Latin Quarter. It has been a hot spot of intellectual life since the French Revolution. You can also find one of the entrances to the oldest restaurant in Paris, Le Procope, which has been in business since 1686! With its adorable boutiques, cobblestones, and historic facades, it is a real throwback to the Paris of yesteryear!

Address: 59, rue Saint-André-des-Arts – 21, rue de l’Ancienne Comédie – 130, boulevard Saint-Germain.
Nearest metro: Odéon (Exit at 2|Car. de L'Odéon) on Line 4.

More about the 6th arrondissement from a local.

Passages in the 8th arrondissement

Arcades des Champs-Élysées

Also known as the Arcades du Lido, after the famous cabaret that once sat nearby before moving further up the avenue. Worth knowing before you go: the Lido cabaret closed in 2022 and the space reopened as Lido 2 Paris, a musical theater, so the name is now a nod to history rather than a show you can still see. Most covered passages may have known their heydays in the mid-nineteenth century, but the golden hour of this arcade, located on the most famous avenue in the world, was much later.

The Arcades des Champs-Élysées were not built until 1924, in a style that mixes Art Deco and neo-classical aesthetics.

Sure, you will find a (massive) glass roof and columns galore, but this passage has a much more modern feel than most of its counterparts and is firmly anchored in the Art Nouveau period. It was once home to a massive luxurious health spa, which included a heated swimming pool. Nowadays, the centerpiece of the Arcades is Starbucks.

The boutiques are the image of those you can find on the avenue, mixing the dramatically expensive with the gaudy tourist souvenirs.

Address: 76 – 78 Avenue des Champs-Élysées.
Nearest metro: George V (Exit 1|Champs-Élysées) on Line 1.

Galerie de la Madeleine

Much like the neighborhood surrounding it, the Galerie de la Madeleine is quiet and elegant, with a distinctive well-to-do atmosphere. Open in 1846, the Galerie benefits from its prime location. The Lucas Carton restaurant next door is a Parisian institution.

Address: 9, place de la Madeleine – 30, rue Boissy d’Anglas. Open Monday to Saturday, from 8 am – 7 pm.
Nearest metro: Madeleine (Exit 2|Église) on Line 8.

Passage Puteaux

This passage may be the shortest covered passage in Paris, but it makes up in charm what it lacks in size. Its inauguration was tainted with disappointment: Louis Puteaux, the investor and primary developer, bet on the fact that the current Gare Saint-Lazare would be built across the street from his shopping arcade.

Unfortunately for him, the project was moved farther south, and the passage was not the triumph he had hoped for. Nowadays, it hosts several charming cafes, which makes the Passage Puteaux the perfect pit stop while exploring the neighborhood.

Address: 33, rue de l’Arcade – 18, rue Pasquier. Open Monday to Friday, from 7 am to midnight.
Nearest metro: Saint-Augustin [Exit at 2|Bd Haussmann (Église Saint-Augustin)] on Line 9.

Passages in the 9th arrondissement

Passage du Havre

There isn’t much left of the original shopping arcade, which opened in 1846. The passage was entirely rebuilt in the 1990s to accommodate a large shopping center, with over 40 stores on two levels.

Address: 69, rue de Caumartin – 109, rue Saint-Lazare. Open Monday to Saturday, from 7.30 am to 8:30 pm, and on Sundays from 11 am – 7 pm.
Nearest metro: Havre-Caumartin (Exit at 3|R. Auber) on Line 9.

Passage Jouffroy

_{Passage Jouffroy covered passage in Paris's 9th arrondissement.}

If there is a place where it feels like time stands still, it is the Passage Jouffroy. Opened in 1847 as a continuation of the Passage des Panoramas, it was the first to be built entirely of metal and glass, with only the decorative elements made of wood. It was also the first to benefit from heated floors.

Adding to its success, it is home to the Musée Grevin (the French answer to Madame Tussaud). With its old-fashioned stores and eccentric cafes, it is as charming as it gets. You can even spend the night at the romantic Hotel Chopin (the only Paris passage with a hotel in it)!

Address: 10-12, boulevard Montmartre – 9, rue de la Grange Batelière. Open every day from 7 am to 9:30 pm.
Nearest metro: Grands Boulevards on Lines 8 and 9.

Passage Verdeau

_{Passage Verdeau covered passage in Paris's 9th arrondissement.}

Like the Passage Jouffroy next door, the Passage Verdeau has managed to preserve its unique Belle Époque atmosphere. It is a bit less run-down by tourists than its next-door neighbors. Thanks to its quirky antique stores, it is a paradise for history lovers.

Address: 6, rue de la Grange-Batelière – 31 bis, rue du Faubourg Montmartre. Open Monday to Friday from 7.30 am – 9 pm and from 7.30 am to 8:30 pm on the weekends.
Nearest metro: Grands Boulevards (Exit at 3|R. Montmartre) on Line 8 or Le Peletier on Line 7.

More about the 9th arrondissement from locals.

Passages in the 10th arrondissement

Passage Brady

If most Parisian covered passages are cameos of Paris’ past, the Passage Brady best represents its diverse and vibrant present.  A world away from the cushy atmosphere of Galerie Vivienne and its consorts, Passage Brady is nicknamed “Little India” by the locals for good reason. It is home to a colorful community of Indian, Pakistani, Mauritian, and Reunion restaurants and shops.

Divided in two by the Boulevard de Strasbourg, only part of it is covered. Passage Brady has a complicated past, including a tragic fire in 2007. Some efforts have been made to restore the passage to its former glory, but it is very much a living community – and the best place in Paris to eat an authentic curry.

Address: 33, boulevard de Strasbourg – 46, rue du Fg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris. Open Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am – 11.30 pm and on Sundays from 6 pm to 11.30 pm.
Nearest metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (Exit at 1|Bd de Sébastopol) on Line 8 or Château D'Eau (Exit at 1|R. du Château D'Eau) on Line 4.

Passage du Prado

Like the Passage Brady, the Passage du Prado caters to locals – including a large immigrant community – rather than tourists in search of Paris' past. To say that it has known better days is a euphemism. Despite an attempt to restore some of its elements, it remains very run-down and is not the best place to hang around in the evenings.

The Art Deco-style buttresses and plaster decoration were repainted in 2012 in bright colors, adding a touch of light to an otherwise gloomy area. Be discreet if you decide to explore on your own.

Address: 18, boulevard Saint-Denis – 12, rue du Fg Saint-Denis. Open every day from 8 am to 8 pm.
Nearest metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (Exit at 1|Bd de Sébastopol) on Line 8 or 9.

More about the 10th arrondissement from a local.

The Best Restaurants Inside the Paris Passages

One of the best things about the covered passages is that you do not have to leave them to eat well. Some of my favorite tables in Paris sit right under these glass roofs, from a legendary haute cuisine dining room to a tiny tea salon that does the prettiest éclairs. Here are the ones I happily send friends to, whether you are after a special occasion dinner or just a warm bite on a rainy afternoon.

Le Grand Vefour (Galeries du Palais-Royal)

Tucked into the arcades of the Palais Royal (not an official passage, but part of the galeries), Le Grand Véfour has been serving grand French cuisine since the eighteenth century, and its gilded, mirrored dining room is a monument in its own right. It reopened in 2026 under a new team, with a fresh menu and a large terrace that spills into the Palais Royal gardens. This is the passages at their most special occasion, so book well ahead and dress the part.

Address: 17 rue de Beaujolais, in the Galeries du Palais Royal (1st).

Le Grand Colbert (beside Galerie Colbert)

You met this one earlier in the guide, and it earns a second mention here. Le Grand Colbert is a sweeping Belle Epoque brasserie straight out of a novel, all brass, palms, and white tablecloths. Come for classic French comfort food like roast chicken or a seafood platter, and arrive a little early so you can wander the Galerie Colbert and Galerie Vivienne next door first.

Address: 2 rue Vivienne, next to the Galerie Colbert (2nd).

Bistrot Vivienne (Galerie Vivienne)

Right under the glass roof of the prettiest passage in Paris, Bistrot Vivienne is my easy, unfussy pick when I want to linger over lunch without a big production. The bistro classics are reliable, and the setting does all the work, especially at a table looking out onto the mosaic floor of the Galerie Vivienne.

Address: 4 rue des Petits Champs, in the Galerie Vivienne (2nd).

Racines (Passage des Panoramas)

The Passage des Panoramas has quietly become one of the best eating streets in Paris, and Racines is the reason I keep going back. It is a warm little Italian spot with a short seasonal menu and a serious wine list, the kind of place where lunch turns into the afternoon. Book ahead, because the locals already know.

Address: 8 Passage des Panoramas (2nd).

Brasserie Astair (Passage des Panoramas)

Also inside the Passage des Panoramas, Astair is the grown-up brasserie of the strip, with generous French plates and a handsome room. It is my choice when I want the passage atmosphere paired with a proper sit-down dinner rather than a quick bite.

Address: Inside the Passage des Panoramas (2nd).

Quick bites along the Passage des Panoramas

If you are grazing rather than dining, the same passage is full of fast and delicious options. Gyoza Bar does exactly what its name promises, Broche grills a fantastic shawarma and falafel, and Club Cochon is a happy stop for pork lovers. It is the perfect stretch for a relaxed, wander-and-nibble kind of evening.

Address: Along the Passage des Panoramas, 11 to 13 boulevard Montmartre (2nd).

Le Valentin (Passage Jouffroy)

Down at the quiet end of the Passage Jouffroy, Le Valentin is a jewel box of a tea salon and patisserie. I stop here for breakfast or an afternoon pick-me-up, usually an éclair or a slice of something chocolate with a pot of tea, while the Belle Epoque light pours through the glass overhead.

Address: 30 Passage Jouffroy (9th).

A curry in the Passage Brady

For something completely different, the Passage Brady in the 10th is the place for an authentic and affordable curry, as I mentioned earlier in the guide. It is the liveliest, most colorful passage on this list at mealtime, and a good reminder that the passages are not all hushed and gilded.

Address: 33 boulevard de Strasbourg, in the Passage Brady (10th).

The Best Shops to Check Out in the Paris Passages

The passages were built for shopping, and two centuries later that is still the best reason to slow down and wander them. Forget the chain stores of the grands boulevards. What you find under these glass roofs are one-of-a-kind specialists, old-fashioned toy shops, wine merchants, and boutiques you will not see anywhere else. These are the shops I always point people toward.

Librairie Jousseaume (Galerie Vivienne)

The oldest shop in the Galerie Vivienne, this antiquarian bookseller has been here since the passage opened in 1826. Books spill onto tables in the arcade itself, and even if your French is rusty, it is a joy to browse the old editions and prints. It is the kind of place that reminds you exactly what these passages were built for.

Address: Galerie Vivienne (2nd).

Legrand Filles et Fils (Galerie Vivienne)

A wine merchant since 1880, Legrand is equal parts shop and institution, with bottles from floor to ceiling and a little bar where you can taste before you buy. I never leave the Galerie Vivienne without at least peeking in. It is also a lovely spot to pick up a gift or a bottle for a picnic in the nearby Palais Royal gardens.

Address: 1 rue de la Banque, Galerie Vivienne (2nd).

Si Tu Veux (Galerie Vivienne)

This old-fashioned toy shop is pure charm, stocked with wooden games, stuffed animals, and costumes that feel plucked from another era. It is a favorite of mine for gifts, whether or not there is a child to buy for.

Address: 68 Galerie Vivienne (2nd).

Christian Louboutin (Galerie Vero-Dodat)

The red-soled empire started right here. Louboutin opened his very first boutique in the Galerie Vero-Dodat, and the flagship still anchors this elegant little passage. Even if the price tags are out of budget, the window displays alone are worth the detour.

Address: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Galerie Vero-Dodat (1st).

By Terry (Galerie Vero-Dodat)

A few doors down, By Terry is the makeup line founded by Terry de Gunzburg, the woman behind some of the most famous lipsticks in the world. The Vero-Dodat boutique is jewel-like and worth a look for anyone who loves a good beauty counter.

Address: Galerie Vero-Dodat (1st).

Pain d’Épices (Passage Jouffroy)

Spread over two floors of the Passage Jouffroy, Pain d’Épices has been enchanting children and grown-ups for more than fifty years. It specializes in dollhouses and miniatures, right down to tiny plates and books, and it is one of the most magical shops in Paris at any time of year, but especially at Christmas.

Address: 29 to 33 Passage Jouffroy (9th).

Didier Ludot (Galeries du Palais Royal)

For fashion lovers, Didier Ludot in the arcades of the Palais Royal is a temple of vintage haute couture, with pristine pieces from the great houses. It is more of a museum than a shop, but browsing is free and endlessly inspiring.

Address: 24 Galerie de Montpensier, Palais-Royal (1st).

Collectors and curiosities (Passage des Panoramas and Passage Verdeau)

If you love a good rummage, two passages are made for you. The Passage des Panoramas is a collectors’ paradise of stamp, coin, and old postcard dealers, while the nearby Passage Verdeau is the place for vintage cameras, antique prints, and secondhand books. Give yourself time to poke around, because the best finds are never in the front window.

Address: Passage des Panoramas (2nd) and Passage Verdeau (9th).

Frequently Asked Questions About the Covered Passages of Paris

C'est fini! The definitive list of the passage couvert of Paris. If you are interested in reading more about the passages, there are very few books in English, but The Covered Passages of Paris (Les passages couverts de Paris) by Guy Lambert does a decent job.

Exploring the Paris passages is such a delight and you can do it on your own without issue, but if you like to do historical walking tours, I found some that may interest you:

How many of the Paris passages have you been to? Which was your favorite? Was there one on my list that you hadn’t heard of? Do tell in the comments, and if this guide helped you plan your wander, please share it with a fellow Paris lover so they can discover the secret world of the passages too.

Illustrations commissioned from Linden Eller.

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