Dining Etiquette in France – How to Survive a Restaurant in Paris!
When I first moved to France and began visiting Paris on a near-monthly basis, I quickly learned (from observation and from the lessons my French hubby imparted on me) that I had a bit of a learning curve when it came to dining etiquette in France.
I did a lot of international travel for work and always made it a point to study a little bit about the culture I was visiting. France and the French people operate by an ancient set of codes – I've referred to this on many occasions, and if you are interested in them, you can read any book from authors Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow to learn more!
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But being a Francophile, I mainly wanted to do the right thing while dining in France, which is why I decided to write this little post with the things I have learned over the years in the hopes I can save you from awkward moments.
Food is an art, behaving in public as a science, and the combination of both can be a little intimidating. The French are not known for their customer service, and quite a few Americans have come home with ruffled feathers after a dining experience, which was a far cry from what they are used to.
Often, it comes down to cultural differences: in the U.S., the waiters are expected to be as present as possible to earn a good tip at the end of the meal. In France, they are here to facilitate your meal, guide you in your choices, and give you plenty of privacy to enjoy your food for as long as you want.
No artificially cheerful teenagers breathing down your neck here and chitchatting about their next exam in the name of being “personable” here! Waiters are dignified professionals who make themselves as scarce as possible and won’t hesitate to put you back in your place if you step the line, knowingly or not.
Considering some of these dining tips will help you stay in their good graces. I have also thrown in some cultural nuances here, as well.
The Entrance
Dining times are later than in the U.S. Some restaurants may have a service at seven or 7:30, but most are at 8. If you want to eat earlier, you will need to go to a brasserie, which often offers non-stop service (service continu) from lunchtime until late into the night.
As it is often the case in Europe, men are supposed to walk in first to scout for potential dangers (such as a terrifying maître d’hôtel) and open the door for the helpless maidens.
Say hello! (This is rule #1 in France) In many places in Europe, stores and restaurants are not considered public space, but an extension of your hosts' home – probably because, not that long ago, they actually were. Therefore, the same rules apply as if you were visiting someone’s house: make eye contact, greet the waiters or waitresses, and smile politely before you do anything else.
You may think that it is a cultural norm to show up late. After all, the French seem to have a pretty elastic notion of time. In fact, it is considered polite to show up 10 to 15 minutes late to a dinner party to give your host some time to add the finishing touches. However, there are no such things in restaurants, particularly the ones that are hard to get into. Be on time, or they will not hold your table for you. Call if you think you may be running late.
Seating
Unless you have a reservation or are eating in a fancier establishment where a reservation would be expected – in which case a waiter will likely jump out of nowhere to ask you if you have a reservation the second you step in – you can generally seat wherever you want. You can always ask a passing waiter “on peut s’asseoir?” (can we sit down?) if you are feeling unsure. Terraces are almost always on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Couples generally sit next to each other, and the waiter may pull a chair for the lady to sit. If you are part of a large group, the person who invites may indicate who is seating, alternating men and women if possible. It can lead to some awkward shuffling, so don't jump to the nearest seat on more formal occasions.
If it is a 2-person table, then the woman should be the one looking out. Men only have eyes for their dazzling companion, and their attention is not to be distracted by anything else, after all!
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French Restaurant Etiquette – The Meal
As a golden rule, never order soda with a meal. Instead, ask for a carafe d’eau (a jug of tap water) which are available everywhere. It is usually served at room temperature and free of charge. Mineral and sparkling water are available for a fee. The French expect you to choose your wine according to what you eat. Food and drink orders are taken at the same time unless you go for an aperitif, like a glass of champagne or a cocktail to sip on while you wait for your food.
The waiter will also bring you a basket of crusty bread free of charge. While it might be tempting to munch on it after a long day of walking around Paris, it is best to pace yourself. Break it with your hands on the top left corner of your plate – a small plate is sometimes out. Break it into tiny morsels to put in your mouth, and do not put bread on your plate.
While in the U.S., the client is king and is (often) free to make any change he or she feels like to the menu. However, in France, the chef knows best. Substituting one thing for another is often frowned upon. If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, it is best to call the restaurant ahead to see what they can do to accommodate you.
Talking about ordering, most restaurants offer a 3-course prix fixe menu (a.k.a. menu du jour or formule du jour) with one to three options each for a starter, a main dish, and a dessert. There is usually a possibility to order only the starter or dessert with the main course. It is what most locals go for and is often the best value both in terms of budget and taste.
Portions are smaller than what you may be used to, and “splitting” a plate is absolutely not done unless it's cheese or charcuterie à partager (to share). The waiters will straight up refuse and give you a scolding if you ask!
Use your fork and knife no matter the food you pick, even fruits, French fries, and shrimp. Sandwiches are the exception, but some French people use their cutlery to eat those too. The exception is asparagus, which you can eat with your hands.
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Although it is a public space, French restaurants are all about making dining an intimate experience. Many restaurants, especially in Paris, seem to try to shove as many tables in a tiny space as humanly possible, and you may feel that you are dining while sitting on your neighbors' lap.
However, you will quickly notice that the noise level is infinitely lower than what you would usually encounter in the U.S. Keep your voice low at all times. If you are too loud, you will be stared down by everybody in the room, and the waiter will not hesitate to remind you to tone your conversation down a notch!
As anyone who has dined with a French family can tell you, meals can be a very, very lengthy affair. The French usually have an hour break for lunch, and there are no limits as far as dinner is concerned.
Waiters will rarely check on you unless you make eye contact and give them a little wave. You may have seen guests calling to the waiting staff by shouting “Garçon!” and snapping their fingers in old movies. But let’s be straight: that would not go down well at all nowadays…
A lengthy service is a sign of quality. You are there to enjoy yourself, so be patient. If you have to be out by a specific time, tell your waiter right away (and apologize profusely). They may be able to tell you which dish you should avoid ordering if you want to be out in time to catch your train or your movie.
The traditional order for a French meal includes starter, main dish, salad, cheese, dessert, and coffee. Dessert and coffee will not be served together unless it is a café gourmand.
The Exit
French waiters are trained not to clear the plates on the table until every single guest is done. You should not start your meal until everyone is served either. Place your fork and knife across the plate when you are done to indicate to the server you are finished.
The last thing your waiter will do is to rush you out the door by bringing the bill before you are even done with your main course: that would be considered rude. When you are ready to pay, ask your waiter for the bill since it is unlikely that they will bring it to the table themselves.
Taking your leftovers home is not customary. The food portions are, after all, significantly smaller than many American restaurants. However, since 2016, larger restaurants have to provide a to-go box to avoid food waste. Still, it is not the norm, and you may get a bit of a side-eye.
Tipping is always an awkward subject. Generally speaking, you are not required to tip in French restaurants. The service is included in the final bill – as are taxes – and waiters are paid a fair wage. However, feel free to round up to the nearest Euro amount for smaller bills, like coffee or drinks, or leave a Euro on the table.
In a fancier restaurant, a tip of 10% to 15% of the final amount in cash for exceptional service is appreciated but not compulsory. Nobody will ever come after you to tell you that you forgot to leave a tip.
Now, after reading all of these French dining etiquette tips, if you still want to brave a restaurant, there is only one more thing to say…Bon Appétit !
How about you? What have your experiences in a French restaurant been like? Did you wish you were aware of some of these “little rules?” Do tell!
AUTHOR BIO
Andi Fisher
I am married to a French man, lived in France for 3 years, and have been to Paris more than 50 times. I am always a tourist so the information, tip, and tricks I share are created to help you!
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Tips
- Flights
- Look for fares using sites like Skyscanner or Expedia.com.
- For France (Paris) coming from the West Coast, I typically fly Air France or United. From the East Coast, I typically fly Air France or Delta.
- If you travel frequently, consider investing in a Priority Pass for airport lounge access. Not only will you have a spot to relax before your flight and charge your devices, but you can eat and drink for free (without paying crazy airport prices!)
- Accommodation
- I use Expedia.com, Booking.com, and Hotels.com to find lodging. Always check the reviews on TripAdvisor before booking!
- If you want to stay in a rental, look at VRBO and Plum Guide.
- Transportation
- For rental car agencies, try Rentalcars.com. When traveling in Europe, I use AutoEurope to make reservations. They find the best rates and allow you to compare different car rental agencies. I typically book with Sixt.
- For transportation from the CDG airport to anywhere within Paris, consider pre-booking with Get Transfer. It is one way to be stress-free and you can request an English-speaking driver.
- Tours + Atractions
- I book tours with companies like Viator and GetYourGuide. Both have a wide variety of activities for every travel style. Other companies to look at include Tours by Locals and Withlocals.
- If you’re visiting a city with multiple attractions, be sure to check out a discount pass, such as CityPASS or Go City.
- Context Travel is another option and they offer more educational-based activities.
- If you are looking to buy tickets to attractions, check out Tiquet.
- Don't Forget Travel Photos
- One of my favorite things to do is to get photos taken of me while on vacation. Flytographer is a great option with photographers all over the world.
- Peace of Mind
- It’s important to have some type of travel insurance to cover any unforeseen accidents, illnesses, threats, or cancellations. I always travel with insurance and would recommend SafetyWing, SquareMouth or Travelex Insurance are good options.
- Should you have any trouble with flight delays to the extent you feel you deserve compensation, I encourage you to check out and use AirHelp. I used them and for 1 claim I got compensated (transparency: a 2nd claim did not, but I was still glad I tried!).
- Planning
- Check out Le Shop for my digital travel planners and Paris planner!
I do love Paris but don’t like the “parisienne” that much. Really loved your pics x
Didn’t mean to sound unpolite believe me, because I love French people but Parisienne are a completely different story and this is based on my esperience…
@Marina, I completely understand!
OK I LOVE this post and the topic. Great points you bring up. I love learning about the cultural norms of the places I am visiting. Great post
These are great tips. I would be so nervous (yet thrilled) to eat in Paris!
This is such an informative post. Me and my husband were so confused about how everyone in Paris eats/ drinks their breakfast standing up and so quickly. Not how we do here in the states.
This is such an informative post. Thanks so much for sharing. I’m pinning this for future travel! 🙂
I haven’t been to Paris since I was a student and relied on day-old baguettes and nutella to keep the energy up. I long to back and try real Parisienne dining – this is such an informative post, thank you!
Your post made me read every word. I love some of these rules and wish America had them. I feel like in America we are in a hurry and take everyone for granted.
France would probably be a dream cone true for me. Food and the place looks magical. I want to visit someday and try french delicacies
Wow this was such a fascinating read! I’ll definitely be pinning this for later 😍
France is such a beautiful country! It certainly took a while for me to get used to the leisurely pace of dining there.
Great tips! I’ve learned some of this just by watching others. Especially the part about couples sitting beside each other. The only other surprise I experienced while dining in Paris was sitting next to a dog. The tables are often quite close together and the French don’t seem to mind bringing their dogs inside the restaurants and letting them sit at the table. I wasn’t thrilled. I like dogs, but don’t necessarily want to dine next to one. So un-French of me, I guess.
I never considered etiquette being an extension of a home visit. It makes sense. I was always amazed at how little ice was actually served with any particular meal. The timing of meals takes a bit to get used to. They are significantly more leisurely, from arrival to finish, including how long you it takes with the actual consumption of your food. The rule of thumb I heard is it’s like you’re at a dinner party that someone else is hosting. You’re bill pays for the food, service, and facilities so it would be rude to rush any one of those items. When ever I return to the States I am amazed at how compulsively US waiters clear dishes too.
Such great tips. I would love to go back to France and experience more of the restaurant scene there!
I feel like the French would hate me as I would accidentally do so many wrong things. These are fantastic tips though! I love the idea of having privacy while I enjoy my meal though – I hate being asked 50 times how everything is haha.
This is a really useful post, Andi! I enjoy the later dining times in France and other areas of continental Europe. I can’t stand dinner before 7pm!
It is so interesting learning the particulars of French dining.
Great post Andi, so detailed and useful. I had to laugh at the “Garcon” comments. Hopefully, your article will make sure people don’t do that.
Greeting the wait staff and not eating until everyone has their food is just common courtesy in my opinion, but a lot of the other things are also really good to know. Great post, very helpful, one to remember for my next trip to France
I’m headed to Paris for the first time in March, so this was extremely useful! I love that whole “man must not be distracted from his lady” section haha. It’s good to know they automatically provide a jug of water since that’s not standard in all European countries. And I’m mentally preparing myself now for much lengthier dinners than I’m used to in the US lol!
Fab post Andi!
I do love eating out in France, and now I am not even sure if I have been doing things correctly. Eep! I had no idea you may eat asparagus with your hands though. That is good to know.
p.s. I love your comment “the French seem to have a pretty elastic notion of time.”
It is so interesting how different restaurant culture can be in different countries! That’s interesting the waiters don’t clear the plates off the table until everyone is done. Very different to North America! I haven’t been to France yet, but I hope to use these tips soon!
These are great tips for dining in France! Each country is so different with their food customs so its good to know in advance. Tipping is always awkward and it’s so useful to read up on the expectations. I’m actually surprised you can eat asparagus with your hands and it isn’t seen as rude in France.
Hey Andi,
Nice post. But I’ll take it with a pinch of salt. It’s our family tradition to go to France each year (My SO is French). We have dined in many parts of France including Paris, but I have never experienced a number of things you mentioned.
Men entering first….umm no? Never experienced this anywhere in EU. 😉
Also, no one has ever frowned upon us for sharing food. We try each others food all the time and have often asked for one dessert & two spoons. Our waiters never seemed to care. 🙂
But yes, you’re right that the waiters leave you alone until everyone has finished the food. I love this about French food culture…meals go on and on. And no one is in a hurry to see you leave their restaurant.
@Yamini, on the men walking in first, maybe that is generational/regional thing? My French husband always does it and some male friends in Barcelona as well. As for sharing, are you talking about splitting a plate — that is what I am referring too – one plate split in 2, not simply sharing from someone else’s plate – maybe I should specify that. I have had good experiences sharing dessert though!
This is sooo useful!! I have visited France several times and I wish I had read this post before visiting, it would have saved me and my husband so much confusion!
“As it is often the case in Europe, men are supposed to walk in first”
French here : this is bullshit.
@John could be a generational thing, but my French husband insists this is true.
Spot on !
Love the way you said it ..
Here in P right now. Just finished dinner. Ready to go back to USA. Too much pressure to get it all right. I’m a tired tourist by the time dinner rolls around and don’t feel like playing mind games with a waiter. I’m nice and very grateful to all of them. But, at this point, I need and am ready to head home. Sheesh.
@Lisa, I feel you! This is the very reason that my husband and I only go to “proper” restaurants ever 2-3 days. I also, I personally hate 2-3 hour long dinners too! Our preference is to eat in brasseries which are a little more lax, or to buy our own food (or do take out, since the pandemic so many places do that now) and eat in our rental or picnic outside.
Hi Andi,
Thank you so much for these tips. My husband and I are going on our 4th road trip in France. This time, we are not going to any cities, but staying at chateaus in rural areas. These dining tips are so helpful and explain so many things. I wish we had known so much of this before.
Though neither of us could claim to be French speaking, we have found one phrase to be most helpful. “parlez-vous anglais?” Of course, this is always preceded by, “Bonjour”. A friend who lived in France told us about using this phrase and how it differs from asking a French person, “Do you speak English”. In all our trips, we can count on one hand the number of times we have not been able to speak to someone in English. We have also found that those few times we have struggled, we have been assisted by total strangers. We LOVE France and do everything we can to respect their culture.
@Michele, those chateau dinners are LONG, right! But lovely! So glad you enjoyed your time in France!
Great advice here. There are a few more secrets to share. Maybe next time you come to Paris you would like to join me on a food tour?
@Tris, bonjour! I will definitely check you out!