São Miguel in Winter: 30+ Things to Do in the Azores Off-Season

Yes, São Miguel is worth visiting in the off-season. I spent the last two weeks of November on the island, got three sunny days out of fourteen, and would go back at exactly the same time of year. The crowds are gone, the prices drop, the waterfalls are running at full force, and the hot springs feel twice as good when the air is cool. You will get rained on. You will also have Lagoa do Fogo almost to yourself.

The Azores off-season runs roughly from October through March. This guide covers what to do in São Miguel during those months, what the weather is actually like, what stays open, what it costs, and what I wish somebody had told me before I packed.

What Has Changed Since My Visit

I traveled to São Miguel in late November, and I rebuilt this guide for the 2026 and 2027 off-season. I checked every price and opening time below in September 2026. A few things have moved since my trip. Caldeira Velha now runs on timed entry slots you have to book online in advance. Poça da Dona Beija now uses online-only ticketing, with a 90-minute limit on your stay. Terra Nostra is now €17 for adults. The island itself hasn't changed, which is the point of going in winter.

São Miguel Weather in the Off-Season: What to Actually Expect

São Miguel in winter sits between about 11°C and 18°C (52°F to 64°F), which is mild, and it rains on roughly two days out of every three. The island does not get cold. It gets wet, windy, and changeable, often all within the same afternoon.

That last part is the bit nobody warns you about. I had mornings that started in fog so thick I could not see the lighthouse I was standing next to, and finished in sunshine. The weather here moves fast, which means a washed-out forecast is not the same as a washed-out day. Twice I drove somewhere in driving rain because I had nothing better to do, and arrived to blue sky.

Two practical things follow from this. First, do not plan your days the night before. Look out of the window in the morning and pick the destination that suits the sky. Second, the island has a real microclimate problem, so the north coast can be soaked while the south is dry. When it looks hopeless in Ponta Delgada, drive.

One more figure worth knowing: the highlands run about 4°C cooler than the coast. Lagoa do Fogo and the Sete Cidades rim will always be colder, windier, and more likely to be in the clouds than your phone's temperature suggests.

São Miguel Month by Month in the Off-Season

Figures below are for Ponta Delgada at sea level.

Month	Avg high / low	Sea	Rainy days	Crowds & prices	What stands out
November	18°C / 14°C (64°F / 57°F)	19°C	about 20	Very quiet, low prices	Waterfalls at full flow. This is when I went.
December	17°C / 13°C (63°F / 55°F)	18°C	about 20	Quiet, prices rise over the holidays	Check opening dates around Christmas and New Year.
January	16°C / 11°C (61°F / 52°F)	17°C	about 21	Quietest month, lowest prices	Wettest month, and the best hot spring weather of the year.
February	16°C / 11°C (61°F / 52°F)	16°C	about 19	Quiet apart from Carnival week	Carnival, then the Romeiros set off around the island.
March	16°C / 11°C (61°F / 52°F)	16°C	about 18	Picking up late in the month	Sea at its coolest. First migrating whales arrive.

Whale and Dolphin Watching in São Miguel in Winter

Yes, you can go whale watching in the Azores in winter. Sperm whales, bottlenose dolphins, Atlantic spotted dolphins, and Risso's dolphins all live in these waters year-round, so they don't leave when the tourists do.

In winter, you give up the big migrating baleen whales. Blue, fin, sei, and humpback whales pass through the Azores between March and May, with blue whales peaking in April, so if those are what you came for, you want the tail end of the off-season rather than the middle. Instead, you'll see sperm whales, resident dolphins, and pilot whales that sometimes turn up in very large pods.

A few practicalities. Only a handful of operators run all year, and winter schedules are thinner, so check who is actually sailing before you build a day around it. Expect cancellations, because the call gets made on the sea state and winter seas out here are rough. Trips run somewhere around €55 to €65 per person, and you can often book the same day, which is a nice change from summer. Take something for seasickness even if you never normally need it.

If it does go ahead, a winter trip is the most atmospheric version of this you will ever do. Grey water, grey sky, almost nobody else on the boat.

What to Do in São Miguel When It Rains

When it rains in São Miguel, go underground, go indoors, or get into hot water. The thermal pools, the lava tube under Ponta Delgada, the tea and pineapple plantations, the ceramics factory, and the churches and museums in town are all fine in bad weather, and several are even better.

I want to be honest about how much use I got out of this list. Three sunny days out of fourteen means I spent most of that trip finding things to do under a roof, and the ones below are the ones that held up.

Gruta do Carvão

Address: Rua do Paim

A lava tube running underneath Ponta Delgada, which is exactly as strange as it sounds. The short guided visit takes 30 to 45 minutes and runs at 10:30, 11:30, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30. The cave is open every day, 10:00 to 12:30 and 14:00 to 18:00. Adults are €11, students and over 65s €8.50, and Azores residents go free. There is a longer two- to three-hour version for €35 that needs booking ahead. The temperature down there is the same whatever the weather is doing on the surface, which is the entire appeal.

Forte de São Brás and the Military Museum of the Azores

On the Ponta Delgada waterfront, largely under cover, and a good hour when the sky has given up. It is also about thirty seconds from somewhere to get a coffee, which matters more than it should on a wet day.

Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

In the center of Ponta Delgada. Manueline stonework outside and gilded altars inside, and free to walk into. Worth ducking into even if churches are not usually your thing, because the contrast between the plain black and white exterior and what is going on inside is genuinely startling.

Santuário do Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres

The most important religious site in the Azores, also in Ponta Delgada. If you are here in Lent, you will see the Romeiros pass through.

The tea plantations, the pineapple greenhouses, and the Cerâmica Vieira factory further down this post are all indoor or covered too, so pull them forward in your plans on a bad day.

Festivals and Events in São Miguel in the Off-Season

The off-season is quieter than summer, but it is not empty. Two events will change what the island feels like while you're there, and both fall in February and March.

Carnival and the Batalha das Limas

Carnival falls in the days before Lent, so February in most years. In 2027 it runs from 6 to 9 February. Decorated trucks move slowly through the center of Ponta Delgada while people in costume throw water and confetti at everybody within range, and the main parade is on Carnival Tuesday. Parishes around the island hold their own dances through the week, which are usually the better party. Book your accommodation early, because it is the busiest the island gets between November and Easter.

The Romeiros

Through the seven weeks of Lent, roughly mid-February to the end of March, groups of men called ranchos de romeiros walk the 300 or so kilometers around São Miguel, stopping to pray at every church on the route. Dark capes, wooden staffs, rosaries, host families putting them up overnight. In 2027 this runs from 10 February to 28 March. If you are driving the island roads during Lent, you will come across them, and pulling over to let them pass is simply what you do.

One thing worth checking before you book: around Christmas and New Year, some restaurants and smaller attractions close for a few days, so confirm opening dates directly if your trip falls in that window.

Visit Farol do Arnel, the Oldest Lighthouse in the Azores

Farol do Arnel Lighthouse in Nordeste is a great place to enjoy a beautiful, calm sunrise or sunset. It is the oldest lighthouse on the island and, in fact, the oldest in the Azores. In winter, there may be too much morning fog, so you may be luckier at sunset. We visited twice, once in the late morning and once in the late afternoon.

To access the lighthouse, park in the car park off the EN1-1A at the top and walk down the narrow, winding road (we absolutely do not recommend driving down, especially with an unfamiliar rental car). The lighthouse is located halfway down and is only open on Wednesdays from 2-5 pm, but you can still walk to it and take some gorgeous pictures with the unending sea as the backdrop.

The lighthouse itself is open to visitors on Wednesdays only, and entry is free. Be aware that the published hours, 14:00 to 17:00, are summer hours, so in the off-season do not build a day around getting inside. Groups of eight or more wanting to visit on another day need permission from the Capitania. Go for the walk, the view, and the weather, and treat the interior as a bonus.

Or if you have a drone, you can get shots like this. By the way, many areas on the island allow drones.

If you keep walking down to the bottom, you should be able to see a small village, or rather a very tiny fishing village. It is at sea level and a great spot for photography and watching the waves crash against the port and the coast. But remember, if you walk down…you have to walk all the way back up!

You can also get a great view of the Farol do Arnel Lighthouse from the Miradouro da Vista dos Barcos lookout, or from the EN1-1A 23 road.

More lighthouses to visit in São Miguel

Another great spot is the Santa Clara Lighthouse located on the cape of Ponta Delgada. It has a big red lantern that used to be a part of the old lighthouse of the Tower of Belem in Lisbon. With crashing waves on the horizon, the red lighthouse and green scenery make for a beautiful picture.

São Miguel has one more gorgeous lighthouse that is a must-visit: the Ginetes Lighthouse or the Ponta da Ferraria Lighthouse. This historic building offers some of the most stunning ocean views, and if you walk down to the shore, you’ll be amazed by the geothermal spring that merges with the ocean.

Winter weather in São Miguel, Azores gives you the chance to photograph the lighthouses with lots of drama! Crashing waves, fog or mist, gloomy clouds- it all sets a mood! Consider black-and-white photos too for even cooler shots!

Best Viewpoints in São Miguel in Winter

The viewpoints are the one thing winter can genuinely take away from you, because a miradouro in the clouds is just a car park. The answer is to go back. I visited several of these twice and got completely different islands on each visit.

As you drive around the island and climb the volcanic peaks and mountains in São Miguel, you will have plenty of opportunities to take in the viewpoints called miradouros. The government has done a fantastic job reserving pullouts, small parking lots, and picnic areas along the main road so you can enjoy the spectacular views even in the winter!

In the offseason, you may have to return to the same spot multiple times to finally see them, but once you do, they are worth it! Here are some of our favorites.

Miradouro da Boca do Inferno

I am not sure that you can claim to have visited São Miguel if you don't visit the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. No São Miguel itinerary. is complete without it, and we visited several times. In the early morning, there was lots of fog and mist, but we had the hiking trails (and the sky for droning) to ourselves.

In the late morning, the fog burned off, and we could see more of the beautiful lakes, but there were more people.

It is a very nice walk from the parking lot (Parque estacionamento Lagoa do Canário) past the Lagoa do Canário (which you can see through the trees) to the main footpath leading to the views of Lagoa das Sete Cidades.

In winter, I recommend hiking boots higher than your ankle, as the trails will be muddy.

Miradouro Da Vista Do Rei

The other breathtaking viewpoint is Miradouro Da Vista Do Rei (Viewpoint of the View of the King or King's View). From this location, you can see the twin multi-colored lakes – the blue lake (Lagoa Azul) and the green lake (Lagoa Verde) – of Sete Cidades surrounded by the lush green crater.

Even though it was winter, we still got to see a glimpse of the famous Azores hydrangeas. I can't imagine what it is like in the spring!

Miradouro do Pico do Carvão

The Miradouro de Pico do Carvão is in the Sete Cidades region. You get a beautiful view of the Massif das Sete Cidades mountains, as well as the island's north and south coasts.

From the EN1-1A, if you follow the M508 towards Lagoa do Canário, you will run across fantastic aqueducts still intact.

There is also a hiking trail in this area called Rota do Pico do Carvão e Aqueduto (Pico do Carvao aqueduct route) that will take you along the aqueducts. It is 8 miles, so plan for that!

Miradouro Ponta do Sossego

This beautiful lookout near the village of Nordeste was one of my favorites. Not only does the view remind me of Hawaii, but a small botanical garden leads up to the viewpoint, with tropical flowers to admire. There are also lots of picnic tables and barbecue pits for a family outing or a meal.

This spot is known for its spectacular sunrises. During the tourist season, it is a very popular spot. People will actually sleep in their cars to get a good spot to see the sun rise over the ocean.

Lagoa do Fogo

Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire) is a volcanic lake near the center of the island, formed by volcanic activity in the Agua de Pau area. 

A 4-mile out-and-back trail starts near Vila Franca do Campo and ends at the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint, then continues along the edge of the lagoon.

Another viewpoint, a little off the beaten path on the way to Lagoa do Fogo and known for its sunsets, is the Miradouro do Pico da Barrosa. The turn-off is along the road that many people take to visit Lagoa do Fogo and is hidden behind a row of radio masts which most people discount or ignore. In truth, it is well worth the detour.

Visit a Tea Plantation in São Miguel

Chá Gorreana is the largest and best-known tea plantation. It is also the only working tea plantation in Europe today. You can walk through their fields at no cost as it is part of a walking trail. In the winter, it is more of a dirt road, and you will need good boots.

If it is raining, you can still visit and view their production process. From picking the tea leaves to packaging. The company remains small-scale, creating flavorful teas while preserving the oxidants. Have a flight of tea in their tasting room or enjoy a cup of your favorite from their covered terrace and ignore the rain…we did!

You can also visit Fábrica de Chá do Porto Formoso, a second tea plantation that produces tea and showcases the ancient 19th-century method of tea production. Guests can also taste several types of teas in their tea room or on the terrace when the weather permits. 

Visit a Pineapple Plantation in São Miguel

The island has over 6,000 pineapple plantations, but only a few are open to the public. You may not want to visit the plantations in the rain, but you can still enjoy the pineapple drinks and treats. (Even if you don't visit a plantation, local restaurants will still have pineapple desserts!)

The most popular of them is Ananases A Arruda. With a history of over 100 years, the plantation is free to visit, and visitors can watch the entire pineapple cultivation process. They also offer free tastings and sell their special Pineapple Liqueur. 

Another delightful spot is the Azorean Pineapple Plantation, where you can visit the traditional pineapple greenhouses, enjoy pineapple delicacies in the bar, and try artisanal pineapple ice cream. 

Pineapples Santo António is also a historical landmark worth checking out. You can also find pineapple cookies here, along with pineapple liqueur.

Visit the Cerâmica Vieira Ceramics Factory

The Cerâmica Vieira Factory showcases Azorean tableware, founded in 1862 and in the family for five generations (here is a little more history). It is a must-see, where visitors can watch the process of making crockery on the potter’s wheel and handmade wall tiles with beautiful blue decorations.

The way the tableware is made has remained almost unchanged since the island's first settlers. Here, the artisans dominate the production of these gorgeous sets. At Christmas, the factory also makes figurines for nativity scenes. If you decorate your home with nativity scenes during the holidays, I encourage you to have a look.

It is the perfect indoor stop for a little shopping (I never leave Portugal without some type of tile; I am a fan!) or just to get out of the rain!

Ribeira dos Caldeirões Waterfall Park

On a day when it was just a bit drizzly, we visited Ribeira dos Caldeirões, a waterfall park with beautiful falls and streams. If you walk along the river, you can see several beautiful waterfalls along the way.

The park is a protected area, home to a lot of flora and fauna, and a great place for exploration, including hiking and swimming. Initially, the area had water mills built in the 16th century, preserving centuries of Azorean family history that you read about as you visit each part.

We tried part of the hiking trail but didn't get far because conditions were a bit slippery, but we did enjoy the falls. Note that it is not really safe for unsupervised children (remember, other countries have different safety standards). It can get quite slippery, so keep an eye out at all times!

Visiting waterfalls is a good overcast-day activity, as they photograph better when it is not too sunny. You don't need good weather to enjoy them.

Hot Springs in São Miguel: Prices, Hours and Which to Choose

One of the best things about visiting the Azores in the off-season is that when bad weather hits, whether it is raining or just overcast, it is the best time to visit the mineral hot springs, thermal baths, pools, and spas. I mean seriously, I could not imagine sitting in 100-degree water in the summer!

São Miguel has four main thermal bathing spots, and winter is the best time to use them all. Terra Nostra and Poça da Dona Beija are in Furnas, Caldeira Velha sits below Lagoa do Fogo, and Ponta da Ferraria is where a hot spring meets the Atlantic at the island's western tip.

Furnas- Terra Nostra Park

São Miguel has several geothermal hot springs, and one of the most popular ones is in the town of Furnas in the Furnas Valley. It has a relaxing pool experience and the beautiful Terra Nostra garden to explore. Located in Terra Nostra Park, the pool is almost like a large pond surrounded by botanical gardens on all sides.

The hot springs are the size of an outdoor swimming pool. The water in the pool is warm to hot, with a water temperature between 95- 104 degrees, and rich in minerals, especially iron, which gives it an orange color. Keep in mind that the iron in the water can damage your swimwear and towels, so don’t wear anything too fancy.

Prices and hours: Adults €17, ages 6 to 17 and over 65s €14.50, family ticket €57. Open 10:30 to 16:30, with last entry 30 minutes before closing. The thermal pool and the jacuzzis are included in general admission. Checked in September 2026.

There are other thermal baths in Furnas called Poça da Dona Beija, with 5 different thermal pools. To me, they look like giant hot tubs, and they are very popular with families and groups.

Prices and hours: €12 per adult until 17:30, €16 from 18:00 onwards. Children aged 2 to 6 are €10 and €14. Open every day, including holidays, 8:30 to 23:00, with last admission at 21:30 and everybody out of the pools by 22:30. Tickets are sold online only on a first-come, first-served basis and are non-refundable. Your ticket covers a maximum stay of one hour and thirty minutes. Towels are €4 and lockers €2, each with a €20 cash deposit you get back. Checked September 2026.

Going after dark in winter is worth the higher evening price. Hot water, cold air, steam and floodlights.

Furnas, São Miguel, is also known for its local dish, Cozido das Furnas, a stew slow-cooked underground by heat from volcanic rock. Watching locals pull the pots in and out of the ground is a show in itself, and each restaurant has an area where it cooks its daily offerings. Families from the village can cook here, too.

It is the perfect comfort food after a trip to the hot springs; however, growing up as a Portuguese-American who was exposed to this stew, along with soupish, while growing up, it wasn't high on my list to experience as I already “knew” the meal. We did have a similar dish in Lisbon, so Mr. Misadventures could have the experience.

Caldeira Velha

Classified as a natural monument, Caldeira Velha is a huge volcanic crater with a landscaped path that leads to lush tropical vegetation, waterfalls, and small pools filled with sulfurous water. It is an ideal place to relax and unwind. The park has 4 warm-water pools and a waterfall at the end.

The pool with the waterfall is not warm water, which was a bit of a shock when I dipped my toe into the pool below the cascading water! I can see where this one would be popular in the summer! The park also has an Environmental Interpretation Center to help visitors understand the various volcanic zones, phenomena, biodiversity, and geodiversity.

Prices, hours, and booking: €10 covers the trail, the interpretation center, and bathing, or €3 for the trail alone (no swimming). Under 6s are generally free. Entry is now timed, in 90-minute slots starting from 9:00, and you need to book online in advance through the official Azores Natural Parks site, which usually will not let you book same day. October to April hours are 9:30 to 17:30, with last entry around 16:30. The main pool sits around 38°C, the waterfall around 30°C, and the lower pools between 22°C and 26°C. Checked September 2026.

Termas das Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande

The spa complex of Termas das Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande dates back to the 19th century and holds a lot of Azorean history within its walls. People first used the waters here in the 17th century to cure illnesses.

As demand for volcanic-water spas grew, a spa complex was built to meet the need. You can enjoy rejuvenating baths, volcanic mud massages, and even soul immersion spa services.

Ponta da Ferraria

This thermal spring is not for the faint of heart! An underwater geothermal spring, Ponta da Ferraria emerges from the ocean and heats up the surrounding waters. Along with the deep blue sea and the dark basalt rocks, the atmosphere is one of pure tranquility and calmness…but not in the winter!

The currents and the crashing waves can become dangerous in certain weather. Which was exactly what happened when we visited. But man, were the waves spectacular!

In milder weather, several ropes and ladders help you stay afloat or sit and relax on the shore without venturing too far out. The geothermal spring seeps into the ocean water and is usually around 64-82°F at low tide. The spring water can reach 141°F, so be careful at peak low tide. When the São Miguel weather turns bad, warm up here!

Ferraria is free, but it is the one thermal spot on this list that winter can take away from you. Access depends entirely on the tide and the sea state, and winter swells regularly make it genuinely dangerous. Check conditions the morning of, and if the ropes are not in or the waves are up, go to Caldeira Velha instead and come back another day.

What to bring to the thermal spas in Sao Miguel

• Bring the bare minimum with you. There isn't much space to put your things down. You can rent lockers in some places, which we did, but we didn’t find them or didn’t use them.
• Bring your own towel. Some thermal sources rent towels, but most do not. I recommend a quick-drying camp towel. They are super light and get the water off you fast.
• Bring flip-flops or water shoes; I wore my JBU by Jambu Ariel Water Ready shoes or something similar.
• Water bag for your cell phone.

Coastal Towns and Scenic Seaside Spots in São Miguel

Caloura

Located on the south of the island, Caloura has a great panoramic vista and a microclimate that makes for sunnier and less humid days. The fishing port is one of its main attractions. Visitors can swim in an artificial saltwater pool that leads to the sea.

The “famous” Bar Caloura is located here. It is a beautiful spot for a drink, but I would skip the food; I had better in many other places on the island. 

Porto Formoso

A little beach town near Ribeira Grande, Porto Formoso has a beautiful sandy beach and a natural mineral spring. Locals and tourists can soak in these potassium-rich spring waters for therapeutic mineral treatments.

Água d'Alto

Água d'Alto is considered the best beach in São Miguel and is a very popular area for family picnics and surfing.

Água de Pau

The small coastal town of Água de Pau has a rich architectural history. The several water fountains were once the main centers of community and fraternization. The town has a beautiful church, Igreja Matriz de Água de Pau, built from basalt rock.

It also has a gorgeous chapel in white, blue, and turquoise. The Monte Santo viewpoint is a great way to take in the green parish and the deep blue sea all at once. 

Surfing in São Miguel in Winter

Winter is the best surf season in São Miguel. The swell is bigger and more consistent between October and March, which is exactly why the surf camps stay open when everything else quietens down.

From a surfing perspective, Sao Miguel is a dream come true. The island has a constant swell generated in the North Atlantic Ocean near Newfoundland, making it a premium surfing destination year-round, especially in winter, followed by autumn and spring.

Some of the best surfing spots are on Mosteiros Beach in the west, Santa Bárbara, Monte Verde, and Santa Iria in the north of Ribeira Grande, and São Roque, Água d'Alto, Calhetas, Populo, and Rabo de Peixe in the south. If you’re a novice, you can find surf camps, surf hostels, or small hotels in the villages with surfing guides to help you get on board.

Where to Eat and Drink in São Miguel

I think there are 10x as many cows as people on the island, which means great beef and dairy! Try the queijo fresco as a starter with bread, and don’t forget the spicy (slightly) red sauce that goes with it. The butter is fantastic, and the yogurt too! Plenty of beef stews, several steak options, and delicious beef dishes.

How can we forget seafood? It is an island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, after all! There are lots of squid and octopus dishes, seafood and rice stews, grilled fresh fish, and shrimp. Heaven! We also ate sushi several times, which was hit or miss.

I don’t know where the pigs are, but there is a ton of chorizo found on the island. Made with pork, it is similar to Spanish chorizo but has less paprika than its neighbor to the east and tastes a bit smokier. And if you are into it (like Mr. Misadventures), try the blood sausage served on top of a pineapple.

Our favorite restaurant was O Silva (R. Direita de Cima 41, Ribeira Grande), where we ate twice. On our first trip, we had grilled squid, and on our second, the roasted octopus, both of which were excellent.

Soup is a big part of Portuguese culture, so don’t miss the soup of the day at any restaurant. It is cheap, filling, and equally delicious!

If you aren't sure about the food, don't worry! The Hungry Whales have a fantastic food tour – and a fantastic reputation!

Renting a Car in São Miguel: Costs and Insurance

You need a car in São Miguel. Public transport will not get you to the viewpoints, the crater lakes or most of the hot springs, and in the off-season the bus timetables thin out further.

My advice to take your rental price and roughly double it still stands, and here are the numbers behind it. The excess on a standard rental in the Azores, meaning the most you would be liable for if you damaged the car, usually runs between €900 and €1,200. Full coverage bought through the booking platform when you reserve typically costs €10 to €15 a day, which is usually less than half of what the rental desk will charge you for the same thing at the counter. Buy it in advance and decline the upsell when you collect the car. Checked September 2026.

In winter, this isn't optional. The roads are wet, the fog comes down fast in the highlands, and the island is full of narrow walls.

When renting a car in Sao Miguel, go for the smallest car possible! The island roads are extremely narrow, the Azoreans aren’t the best drivers (or parkers), and in the city, it is sometimes impossible to navigate the tiny streets even in a small car.

In addition, get car insurance (so you will need to budget for that; basically, take your rental price and double it) because scrapes on the outside of the car would not be unheard of given how much room you have to pass between cars. The mountainous roads are dangerous, with very sharp corners, and you do not want to be on the wrong end of an accident.

What to Pack for São Miguel in Winter

Pack for mild and wet, not for cold. A proper rain jacket, boots with real grip, and layers will cover almost everything São Miguel throws at you between November and March. You will not need a winter coat, and you will not need snow gear.

• A waterproof jacket with a hood. Umbrellas are close to useless here because of the wind. I watched several die.
• Boots with grip. This is the item I would argue hardest for. The trails at Ribeira dos Caldeirões and the dirt roads through the tea plantation turn to slick mud in winter, and I went down on both. Trainers will not do it.
• Layers rather than one heavy coat. 16°C and damp feels a good deal colder than 16°C and dry, and you will be getting in and out of a warm car all day.
• A swimsuit you do not love. The water at Terra Nostra is rich in iron, and it will stain your swimwear and your towel orange. This is not reversible. Bring the old one.
• A quick-dry towel. You will use it more than you expect, and a wet cotton towel in a car for two weeks is its own kind of misery.
• A dry bag or waterproof phone pouch. For the boat, the waterfalls, and the days the sky opens while you are twenty minutes from the car.
• A full change of clothes left in the car. The single best thing I did on that trip.
• Something for seasickness, if a whale watching trip is on your list. Winter seas are rough.

Tips for Visiting São Miguel in the Off-Season

São Miguel has several small towns that are worth visiting. If you want to get off the highway and explore, follow the “Acesso locale” signs. No matter where you’re going, watch out for the tiny roads. Another notable thing is that people park wherever they want most of the time, so you may have to navigate carefully.

Be careful when you walk in town

Be extremely careful when exiting buildings, stores, restaurants, bars, or anything in São Miguel. There are either no sidewalks or sidewalks that are 6 inches (if you are lucky!). If you step out without looking, you may get hit by a car.

Picnic Areas

Beautiful picnic areas dot the island, with gorgeous views. If you are going to be out and about during the day, consider packing a lunch (or a sunset apero) and stopping at one of these “merendas” spots.

Guided Tours

If you don't feel comfortable renting a car, plenty of guided tours offer half- or full-day itineraries that take you to all the sites and spas. There may not be as many operating in the winter, but they are operating, and we saw plenty.

I recommend the following:

• Ponta Delgada: Sete Cidades & Lagoa do Fogo Tour
• São Miguel East: Full-Day Van Tour with Lunch

About São Miguel and the Azores

São Miguel is the largest island (290 square miles) of the Azores archipelago, one of 9 islands off the coast of Portugal. It is an autonomous region, meaning it can govern itself. Azoreans only claim to be Portuguese during national or international fútbol (soccer) tournaments; otherwise, they are proud and consider themselves Azorean, not Portuguese.

Besides surfing, the Azores are known for whale watching and offer plenty of tours where you can see sperm whales (and bottlenose dolphins too). There are a lot of water sports and spelunking or caving, etc., but you can't do any of it in the winter. So if that matters to you, plan your trip for spring, summer, or fall.

Flying into Ponta Delgada Airport

The Sao Miguel airport is called Ponta Delgada (located in the largest city of the Azores) and is an international airport. Besides flights coming in from continental Europe (via Lisbon), there are flights to São Miguel, Azores, from the United States. Year-round, the 2 airlines doing these direct flights from New York and Boston are Azores Airlines (SATA) and TAP Air Portugal.

In the summer, there is also a direct flight from Oakland, California (read this fantastic book, The Tenth Island: Finding Joy, Beauty, and Unexpected Love in the Azores, to learn why). In the summer, United Airlines also flies direct.

• It is an outdoor airport, so there is no protection from rain or heavy winds.
• The planes load from the front and rear, so pay attention to your seat number, as it may be quicker to go from the back.
• Weather can definitely affect your trip with delays or cancellations, so always have a plan B!

We had changes and/or cancellations on our flights to and from the Azores, and it is not uncommon due to high winds and other weather conditions that affect these islands. We used AirHelp. If you have any trouble with flight delays and feel you deserve compensation, I encourage you to check them out.

Where to Stay in São Miguel in the Off-Season

If I could change one thing about our trip, it would be where we slept. We rented an apartment in the middle of Ponta Delgada, which sounds sensible, but it was not. In the off-season, the city empties out in the evening, and we spent much of the trip driving out of town in the morning and back in at night. That is time you do not get back.

Next time I would base myself in a village. Here is how I would think about the options now.

Ponta Delgada works if you want restaurants within walking distance, a supermarket, the airport fifteen minutes away, and somewhere to go when the weather closes in. It is the right call for a short trip or a first visit, and the only place on the island with a real rainy-day list.

Furnas puts you next to the hot springs, which matters more in winter than in any other season. Being able to walk to thermal water at the end of a wet day is a genuine luxury, and it is the one I would pick.

Ribeira Grande on the north coast sits close to the surf beaches, the tea plantations and Caldeira Velha, and it is a working town rather than a tourist one. Good if you want to eat where people actually live.

The east, around Nordeste, is the quietest and the most beautiful and by some margin the least convenient. Come here if you want the island to yourself and don't mind the driving.

Whatever you pick, off-season prices are a fraction of summer, so the place you were quietly talking yourself out of is probably affordable in January.

São Miguel Off-Season FAQ

Visiting the Azores in the winter is tricky, but the reward of having the Green Island (Ilha Verde) all to ourselves, the attention of the locals, low season rates, and a nature-lovers paradise to explore at our feet makes it very worth it the Misadventures family!

I would also return to Nossa Senhora da Paz in Vila Franca Do Campo because we visited at the end of a very long day and I didn't have the strength to walk up all those stairs, but the view from the bottom of the shrine of the was still fantastic!

How about you? Have you been to any island in the Azores? Do you want to? Do tell!

Like it? PIN it!