French Etiquette & Culture – At the Market

One of the best ways to experience the most delicious food that France has to offer is at an outdoor market (farmer’s market) or marché. Every town or village in France either has one or is next to a town with one. In Paris, you’ll find them throughout the city in each arrondissement, so there is always one to shop at!

Before you head out, I’d like to share some tips and tricks, French market etiquette, that will make your experience more enjoyable and your interactions with vendors more pleasant.

French market etiquette in a nutshell: say bonjour first, wait your turn, don’t touch the produce, bring cash and your own bag, and say merci and au revoir when you leave.

Markets come in various sizes and shapes, and some are better than others or known for certain products or characteristics. The best way to find what you like is by exploring; you can go to a different marché every day. You can see more information on how to find them in the “Where to Find French Markets” section below, or in my guide to The Best Food Markets in Paris.

French Market vs. Farmers Market: What’s the Difference?

A French market (marché) is the everyday version of a farmers market: it runs on a set weekly schedule, it’s where many locals do their regular food shopping, and the vendors serve you rather than letting you browse and handle the produce.

Some stalls are run by the growers themselves (look for the word producteur on the sign), while others are resellers, so you’ll see fruit and vegetables from a mix of regions and countries. Alongside produce you’ll find cheese, fish, rotisserie chicken, bread and flowers. (In French, a farmers market in the American sense is often called a marché de producteurs, while the everyday market is simply a marché.)

The biggest differences for visitors: you don’t self-serve, prices are per kilo and generally not negotiable, and a small ritual of greetings and turn-taking keeps everything running smoothly. The rest of this post covers how that works.

Always Say Bonjour First

I’ve said it before. Many, many times. When you enter a restaurant, a store, or walk up to a market stand in France, do not do anything else, or say anything else, before you say BONJOUR. Bonus if you add “Monsieur” or “Madame” after it. I cannot stress this point enough.

In France, greeting someone before you ask for anything is basic politeness, and skipping it comes across as rude, even if all you’re buying is a bunch of radishes.

It is your key to any interaction in France. One of my favorite author couples, Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow, have written really great books on French culture. Their book, The Bonjour Effect: The Secret Codes of French Conversation Revealed, is an excellent read, particularly on why saying “Bonjour” matters.

Waiting Your Turn at a French Market

Vendors serve one customer at a time, so expect to wait your turn, even when there isn’t a tidy line. If you’re not sure who’s next, ask À qui le tour ? (whose turn is it?).

When a vendor is helping someone with their purchases, they will (usually) not help anyone else. Even if it is a 95-year-old woman taking her damn sweet time to choose her purchases. It is not you. They give the same respect to every client. The vendor may or may not acknowledge you, but they know you are there. Sometimes this takes an infinite amount of patience.

From time to time, when I am the client being served, and I am still making selections, I will tell the vendor he can help the next person while I continue to think about what I want; they always look at me incredulously, but I think it is nice. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won’t. Just be prepared that they usually help one client at a time.

Can You Touch the Fruit at a French Market? (No – Here’s Why)

No. At most French market stalls you point and let the vendor choose, and touching the produce yourself is considered unhygienic. It is the number one mistake visitors make.

The number one rule most tourists break, and I have to admit even (the French) Mr. Misadventures got in trouble for this at a fruit stand on Rue Montorgueil… don’t touch the produce! I know in the U.S. we grab/touch/poke/test our fruit and vegetables, etc. But it is a big no-no in France! (By the way, this is also a no-no in Spain and Italy.)

It is a hygiene issue – although, Lord knows, I’ve seen so many other unhygienic practices going on at markets, but it is what it is. The vendor will serve you. They are the masters and they will choose the “best” for you. However, do not let your eye off of them for a second or you may get something that doesn’t look as optimal as it should!

The only time it might be okay to pick your own is if you see paper bags in a pile. That’s (typically) a sign that you’re welcome to pick out your own produce.

Tip: the vendor will often ask when you’re planning to eat the fruit (C’est pour aujourd’hui ?). Answer pour aujourd’hui (today), pour demain (tomorrow) or pour dans quelques jours (in a few days) and they’ll pick pieces at the right ripeness.

Cash, Coins and Cards at French Markets

Bring cash, ideally small notes and coins. Many market stalls take cards or contactless payments these days, but not all of them, and exact change is always appreciated.

I always pack a coin purse when I am going to Paris (or other European destinations). You can’t imagine how fast coins accumulate! You don’t have big bulging pockets and most wallets don’t accommodate the number of coins you will be dealing with. I have one with two sides, I put 1 and 2 Euro coins on one side and the rest of the denominations on the other.

It makes paying at the market quicker. Alternatively, if you don’t want to feel flustered while counting out coins, bring small notes to pay – you’ll end up with more coins, but you won’t have to worry about (a) ensuring you heard right for the total amount or (b) scrambling for coins.

Card and contactless payments are more common at market stalls than they used to be, but acceptance varies from stall to stall (some have a minimum), so don’t count on it, especially at small producers. If you want to pay by card, ask Vous prenez la carte ? before the vendor starts bagging your order.

What Bag to Bring to a French Market

Bring at least one sturdy reusable tote. The bags at the market are thin, and these days they’re usually paper rather than plastic.

The bags at the market are not that solid. And after you buy 2-3 things, your hands are full. I always bring multiple tote bags – ones for more delicate items, another for sturdier things, another for hot items, etc. We usually walk and/or take the metro to the various marchés so tote bags usually make transporting far easier.

Also, we were there in the spring when it was raining, and a lot of the paper bags disintegrate when they get wet. I often keep the sturdier plastic bags you get at some bakeries to double bag things, like chicken as the bag can be greasy. Tote bags don’t take up a lot of room in your suitcase; alternatively, you can buy them for fairly cheap, or as souvenirs. You’ll also see many locals with a folding market trolley or a woven basket, which are good options if you plan to buy a lot.

French Market Phrases and Vocabulary

You don’t need much French at the market, but a few phrases go a long way:

French	English
Bonjour, Monsieur / Madame	Hello (always first)
Je voudrais… , s’il vous plaît	I would like… , please
Un kilo de… / une livre de… / 500 grammes de…	A kilo of… / half a kilo (about a pound) of…
Une barquette de fraises	A punnet (tray) of strawberries
C’est pour aujourd’hui ? / Pour demain	Is it for today? / For tomorrow (so the vendor picks the right ripeness)
À point, s’il vous plaît	Ripe and ready to eat (cheese, avocados, melons)
Ça fait combien ?	How much is that?
Vous prenez la carte ?	Do you take cards?
À qui le tour ?	Whose turn is it?
Et avec ceci ? / Ce sera tout ?	Anything else? / Will that be all?
Un peu plus / un peu moins	A little more / a little less
Sous vide, s’il vous plaît	Vacuum-packed, please (handy for cheese you’re taking home)
Merci, bonne journée ! / Au revoir	Thank you, have a good day! / Goodbye

A few words you’ll see on signs: marché (market), marché aux fruits et légumes (fruit and vegetable market), étal (stall), primeur (greengrocer), producteur (grower), fruits et légumes de saison (seasonal fruit and vegetables), fruits du marché (fresh fruit from the market), and bio (organic).

Where to Find French Markets (and Paris Market Schedules)

Everywhere! But each market has its own schedule. For a list of the best Paris markets with their days, hours and arrondissements, see my guide to The Best Food Markets in Paris. For official schedules, check out these resources:

In English: Food and specialist markets from the official Paris info site.
In French: All market hours by day from the Ville de Paris site.

During our most recent trip, we visited the Marché Bastille (also known as Marché Richard Lenoir, in the 11th arrondissement) when it was open both Thursday and Sunday (Thursday 7 am–2:30 pm and Sunday 7 am–3 pm); it is one of the best in Paris. We also love the market streets Rue Poncelet (17th arr, Tuesday–Saturday) and Rue Montorgueil (2nd, daily).

What to Buy at a French Market

If you’re not sure where to start, you can’t go wrong with three things: rotisserie chicken, seasonal fruit and vegetables, and cheese.

And it depends! If you are staying in a rental apartment/home like an Airbnb, which is what we had during our last visit to Paris, then the answer is lots! In particular, I highly recommend:

Rotisserie Chicken

The love for a good roasted chicken runs deep in the veins of any Frenchman. King Henry IV of France
is famously quoted as saying, “I want there to be no peasant in my realm so poor that he will not have a chicken in his pot every Sunday.” When I lived in France, we had roasted chicken with potatoes that we bought in our local marché every weekend.

It is delicious, relatively inexpensive, will last a couple of meals, and is easy to prep. It’s not as easy if you are staying in a hotel, but if you plan ahead with plates and napkins and ask the vendor to cut your chicken, it still makes a wonderful picnic.

Fruits & Vegetables at a French Market

No matter where you are staying while visiting Paris, you can enjoy the very fresh fruit (and vegetables) that are available at the market. Mr. Misadventures and I personally think the quality is better and the origin closer to France when you buy in a marché versus a grocery store, but I don’t have empirical proof. What I can say is that French strawberries have forever ruined any other strawberry for me.

I often buy a basket of strawberries to eat while I am shopping. Could you resist these? They do taste as good as they look!

This past April/May the raspberries and blueberries were sensational. I have always been ambivalent about these 2 berries but could not get enough on this trip!

The white asparagus was in season as well. That’s another thing about the markets: the stands start to look all the same because the vendors sell what is in season. Take the time to look for the best product
(prices aren’t usually negotiable, but they can differ from one stall to the next) because you have a choice!

Market streets like Rue Poncelet and Rue Montorgueil have vendors that take great pride in their displays. Look how lovely these tomatoes look.

Also, the radishes, traditionally served with butter and sea salt once you get them home, were divine!

What’s in season (typical timing; it varies by year and region):

• Spring (April–June): white asparagus, radishes, peas and early strawberries such as gariguettes.
• Summer (June–September): raspberries, apricots, peaches, melons, figs and tomatoes.
• Fall (September–November): apples, pears, grapes, chestnuts and squash.
• Winter (December–March): citrus, endives, leeks, cabbage and root vegetables.
• Every one of my Paris in MONTH articles tells you exactly what is in season at the market, so go here, select the month for your visit and have a look!

How to order: say what you want and how much (Je voudrais un kilo de tomates, s’il vous plaît), and tell the vendor when you’ll eat it. Check the sign for the origin of the produce (France, Spain, Italy…); if you want something local, ask C’est de la région ? Quantities are by weight:

Weight	Approximate US equivalent	Good for
100 grams	3.5 oz	A taste of cheese, a handful of cherries
250 grams	just over ½ lb	A small punnet of strawberries
500 grams (une livre)	about 1.1 lb	Fruit for two or three days
1 kilo	2.2 lb	Tomatoes, apples, potatoes

Cheese at a French Market

France has hundreds of cheeses; if you count sub-varieties, it can be over 1000! Take the time to try 1 or 2, okay, a dozen while you are visiting. Some cannot be imported to the United States (notably raw-milk cheeses aged less than 60 days), so it is a unique opportunity to taste cheeses you may never see again.

How to order cheese at the market:

• Tell the cheesemonger (fromager) what you like (soft, hard, goat, blue) and when you’ll eat it (pour ce soir, pour demain) so they can choose a piece that is à point.
• Not sure where to start? Try Comté (a nutty hard cow’s-milk cheese), Brie de Meaux, Camembert de Normandie, a fresh or aged chèvre (goat), or Roquefort (a blue, made from sheep’s milk).
• You don’t need to buy a whole wheel. Ask for un petit morceau or a slice (une tranche).
• Taking cheese home? Ask for it sous vide (vacuum-packed).

Best Time to Go to a French Market

The best time to go is 30 to 60 minutes after the market opens, when vendors are set up and the selection is at its best. For discounts, go about 30 minutes before closing. Many markets close in the early afternoon (around 1:30 to 3pm), so plan to go in the morning.

Of course, you can shop at the markets anytime they are open, but a couple of times are a little more optimal than others. The first is about 30 to 60 minutes after they open. When they are first open, the vendors are a little hassled getting set up (and waking up!) so they aren’t as friendly (even though French people aren’t overly friendly anyway!).

After about 30 minutes the vendors are warmed up and ready to go and anxious to sell, sell, sell! You will get the pick of the best.

The other best time is about 30 minutes before the market closes – you can get great deals. Vendors would rather not pack their product back up; every time they move, they risk damaging it. Word of caution, it’s also when you risk getting produce that is not at its top freshness, but if you are okay with a little bruising, you can walk away with 2-for-1 and more!

Want to cook with your market finds? Try my Salad Niçoise Recipe, browse 25 Fantastic French Dinner Recipes, or read about the French Baguette in the UNESCO List (you’ll want one with that cheese).

You can have so much fun, soak up everyday French culture and life, and find many delicious foods in France’s markets (marchés). I highly recommend exploring at least one on your next visit to Paris or France. Just remember to say “bonjour” and don’t touch the fruit and vegetables!

French Market Etiquette FAQs

How about you? Have you visited a market/marché in France? Have any additional tips? What’s the best thing you bought? Do share!

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