The History of Gingham (Vichy Print): Origins, Meaning, and Style

It’s no secret that fashion trends keep repeating, and once more, the Vichy print, more commonly known as gingham, is back in style. But what exactly is gingham, where did this cheerful checked pattern come from, and why do the French call it Vichy? Below is the full story, from its origins to its place in fashion today. This checkered pattern goes beyond picnic tablecloths and pajamas, it's also one of Barbie's favorite prints!

Having lived in France, I can tell you the Vichy check is everywhere once you start to notice it, on market awnings, in kitchen linens, and above all on children’s clothing. It is stitched into everyday French life, and seeing it so often is what made me fall for it all over again. If you love that kind of effortless French style, you may enjoy my guide on how to embrace your inner French girl.

Here is a bit of its history and inspiration.

What is Gingham (Vichy Print)?

Gingham, known in France as Vichy print, is a lightweight cotton fabric woven in a simple checked pattern, traditionally one bold color alternating with white in even squares. The color is woven into the yarn rather than printed on top, so the check looks the same on the front and the back, which is part of what gives gingham its clean, balanced look.

The Vichy print may sound like a pattern we’ve never heard of before, but it is the French name for Gingham. While known worldwide, Gingham has a complex origin story. Many countries, from France, Britain, and Africa to Indonesia and Japan, have versions of the checked fabric, each an integral part of their respective cultures and heritage.

In France, the Gingham pattern is known as the Vichy, and, you guessed it, it originates from the city of Vichy in central France, a thermal spa town with a rich history of its own.

Gingham vs. Plaid vs. Check: What’s the Difference?

People often use gingham, check, and plaid to mean the same thing, but they are not identical. Here is a quick way to tell them apart.

Gingham is a specific kind of check, always two colors, one shade plus white, arranged in even, equal squares. It is light, tidy, and symmetrical.

Check is the umbrella term for any pattern of crossing horizontal and vertical lines that form squares. So every gingham is a check, but not every check is a gingham.

Plaid, which grew out of Scottish tartan, uses several colors and bands of different widths crossing one another, so it looks busier and more intricate than the simple two-color gingham.

Buffalo check is essentially gingham scaled up, usually in red and black with much larger squares.

And Vichy? That is simply the French word for gingham, so a Vichy check and a gingham check are one and the same fabric.

History of Gingham (Vichy Print)

The word gingham comes from the Malay genggang, meaning striped or separate. European traders, chiefly the Dutch, brought the fabric west in the 17th century, and by the middle of the 18th century it was being woven in the mills of Manchester, where the familiar checked version took shape.

While Vichy checks were popularized in the 17th and 18th centuries, checked cloth itself is far older. Woven checks appear across many early cultures, and by the 14th century, illuminated manuscripts show checked fabric used as pillows and linens. What we now recognize as gingham, though, traces most directly to that Malay genggang and its arrival in Europe.

Initially, the Gingham pattern was made up of only stripes. The checks weren’t added until the 20th century.

The Vichy Print in France

In the 17th century, Europe started importing this fabric, which initially had a striped pattern and was named ‘Genggang’ (originating from a Malay word). From the mid-18th century, the fabric was produced in Manchester. The 19th century brought with it a booming textile industry to France.

The French courts reinforced the making of dresses that used yards of fabric, which in turn helped the industry grow and strengthen. The king of France, Emperor Napoleon III, supported this movement by visiting manufacturers whenever he traveled. 

Vichy was one of Napoleon III’s vacation places. In 1863, while staying in the spa town, he visited the local Grivats Spinning Mill in the neighboring village of Cusset, a factory that had been producing striped cotton canvas for over forty years.

The Emperor’s wife, Empress Eugene, and her court ladies fawned over the striped fabric and popularized it in Paris and France. You were considered elegant if you were seen in striped cotton of pink and daffodil or lilac and white stripes. 

The Vichy Print in America

As the textile industry grew, Europe began exporting fabrics to its colonies, where cotton production was a huge success. The fabric arrived in the States and was advertised in newspapers in Boston and Philadelphia. George Washington even ordered the checked fabric for the table chairs in his house in Mount Vernon. 

Gingham from All Over the World

While Gingham was popular in France, the checked pattern actually has deeper roots and was used long before it came to Europe. Several countries across the globe consider this fabric an essential part of their cultural heritage and call it by a different name. 

In Indonesia, the fabric is called poleng and is created with stripes alternating between a neutral color and a colored thread. In the United Kingdom, the fabric is called Gingham (taken from the Malay word Genggang meaning striped).

Southeast Asian countries like India and Bangladesh call it a gamucha, and it is used as a towel to absorb sweat. Some men even tie it around their heads or their necks.

In Japanese culture, the Gingham pattern is a spiritual symbol and is used to wrap a Buddha statue when a child has passed away. The African tribes of Maasai and Suburu use the pattern in their traditional garb.

Popularization of the Vichy Print

The Vichy print was considered a precious fabric, and people mended their Vichy checks when damaged. It was also considered a great hand-me-down and was often listed in wills along with arts and silvers. 

Vichy Print in Fashion

The Vichy print has been in style ever since and soon gained popularity among the general public. From the 20th century onward, the pattern was a huge hit in British and American literature and cinema, especially during World War II. 

While the checked fabric was used in films after the First World War when the public had access to fashion trends and ready-to-wear clothes, it achieved true fame when Katharine Hepburn wore a long checked dress with a flared skirt in The Philadelphia Story in 1940. [Although Judy Garland wore a Gingham dress a year earlier in “The Wizard of Oz.”

Gingham took over Hollywood and appeared on-screen in many films of the time.

In France, the Vichy print became famous when Brigitte Bardot, also known as BB, wore it in some of her movies, as well as on her wedding day. Around the same time, Jacques Ouaki, the founder of Tati stores, created his logo with the Vichy pattern as a background. He brought the Vichy print into prêt-à-porter in Paris.

The Vichy print was insanely popular in the 50s and the 60s when actresses splashed the big screens with stylish dresses and elegant Vichy looks. The 70s, however, brought a more relaxed outlook by pairing denim with Gingham. Since then, it has come and gone, but it remains a classic and has made several comebacks over the years.

More fun reads on the Vichy print in fashion:

• How To Wear Gingham from Vogue UK
• 6 iconic gingham moments from the big screen from Vogue France

Vichy Print in Interiors

In the United States, designers like Valentino, as well as Colefax and Fowler, used the Vichy print extensively in their interior designs. Faudree drew inspiration from 18th-century French design and soon became well known for his favorite pairing of Toile de Jouy and Vichy checks.

Perhaps the most fascinating was the actress and socialite Gloria Vanderbilt, who liberally used the Vichy checks in her home decor, making her an icon for many designers. The walls of her living room and bedroom were wrapped in pink Gingham. 

The Vichy Print in the Modern Day

The Vichy print has been in and out of the fashion scene for quite some years now, and there doesn’t seem to be an end to this lovely pattern. Although the print has certain rustic connotations, its fresh, innovative use in stylish clothing, classy decor, and elegant interiors has given the Vichy print new status.

And then there is Barbie! In the 2023 film, Barbie wears pink gingham, and it has influenced fashion trends again! More than a passing moment, gingham has held its place on spring and summer runways in the seasons since, proof that this centuries-old check still feels fresh.

The variety in color and check size makes it possible to use it for almost every occasion. You can wear it on its own or pair it with another print for a funky look. When it comes to colors, nothing beats the monochromatic look of a neutral base and a colored thread.

The Vichy print is a great accessory for casual and formal wear. The size of the checks and the color make all the difference – smaller checks are more suited for serious looks, while bigger checks and bolder colors are perfect for playful outfits.

Vichy checks have completely embraced and dominated the urban fashion scene and remain a timeless motif that designers keep coming back to.

Frequently Asked Questions About Gingham

How about you? Are you a fan of Gingham/Vichy print? Do tell!