Paris Profiles – 10th Arrondissement with Daisy

Paris-Profiles-Misadventures-with-Andi
I am having so much fun with my San Francisco Profiles series (and there are more of them to come!) that I decided to create a slightly different version for Paris. With the help of some my very favorite (and all incredibly talented and beautiful) friends in Paris, I will be exploring the various arrondissements of Paris, the little neighborhoods my friends live in and explore every day.

First up is the 10th arrondissement where my friend Daisy lives. This area of Paris centers on the Canal St. Martin and is sometimes called the “Next Left Bank.”  Daisy is vivacious and charismatic and quite the entrepreneur.  She works a full time job and continues to launch her THATeverything empire.

Andi on the THATLou Treasure Hunt

Andi on the THATLou Treasure Hunt

Last year while visiting Paris I did a THATLou treasure hunt with my dear friend Kasia of Love in the City of Lights and Mr Misadventures and I tried out THATRue on our latest trip in May (yes, I went to Paris in May, and yes I know I have not posted about it yet!  Getting to it, I promise) which are treasure hunts in the streets of the Latin Quarter of Paris – such a unique way to visit the city!

Now she has launched THATd’Or in my favorite Paris museum, the Orsay.  I WILL be doing that my next trip to Paris (and you should too!).

Daisy is a native New Yorker but has been living in Paris for the past decade and is passionate about it, warts and all.  Her knowledge of history is outstanding and breathe-taking! I could not be more pleased to have her kick off this inaugural Paris Profiles series sharing her favorite spots in the 10th.

Meet Daisy (and Storsh).

Daisy profile shot with storsh

[1] Favorite thing about your neighborhood.

There are two things that I love most about my Ventre de Paris Faubourg St Denis hood: its history as well as the life & liveliness of the still functioning Market Street. Hearing fruit vendors scream their strawberry sales pleases me no end.

The word Faubourg means “False Berg” or “Sham Town”, pointing to the fact that any street which bears this ‘Fbg’ prefix was on the outside of the city walls at one point. There are two “Portes” (arches or literally doors to town) within 50 meters of one another on the Grands Boulevards (the Grands Boulevards themselves having once been the walls, stitching in Louis XIV’s 17th Century Paris).

Arch St Martin - Gare de l'Est in distance  @ Daisy de Plume

Arch St Martin – Gare de l’Est in distance @ Daisy de Plume

The Arch of St Denis (built in 1671-74) bookends Fbg St Denis in the 10th Arrt from rue St Denis, the red-light district in the 2nd Arrt. Likewise, the Arch of St Martin (1674) distinguishes rue du Fbg St Martin in the 10th Arrt from rue St Martin down in the 3rd Arrt. My 3 year old Storsh knows the Arch of St Denis with its fearsome lion as His Arch and the arch of St Martin as his Auntie Kasia’s arch (she lives 7 minutes away, in her NoMa). That this basic history of Paris is so ingrained in my toddler brings me joy, and by pure default of being here makes me appreciates his upbringing.

Both arches commemorate Louis XIV’s military victories and were far grander replacements of Charles V’s medieval toll-entrances. The street of St Denis is ancient, leading directly to the Basilica of St Denis (which is outside the current walls of Paris, the “Péripherique”). The patron saint of France and first bishop of Paris, St Denis was beheaded in 250 AD and buried in a Gallo-Roman cemetery which is where the Gothic basilica now lies.

If you’re interested in French history the Basilica of St Denis is the single most important place in France for you to visit, as nearly every monarch was interred there since Dagobert in the 7th Century. It’s also of tremendous importance art historically, because it heralded the difference between Romanesque and Gothic architecture under the supervision of the Abbot Suger, 1081-1151 (Incidentally Suger surfaces in one of my THATRue hunts down on the streets of the Latin Quarter).

[2] Least favorite thing about your neighborhood.

There’s so much the French just loathe about America that I suppose I should be celebrating any Yank appreciation…. That said, the one thing that ticks me off about my hood is how inescapable the Bobo (Bourgeois bohemian) appreciation of all things NY or Brooklyn are. Around the corner on rue Fbg Poissionniere there are two very prettily designed “Ferdinands”, one a hotdog spot another a hamburger joint. Bagel places abound as do other burger and hotdog boites.

On my own FSD street we have the hyped-up hotdog hotspot that doubles as a juice bar, and just opposite my door is a hamburger joint that’s signature is a line, rain or shine called Paris-New York (and yes, this is me being a total hypocrite, because those hamburgers at Paris-New York are scrumptious – the only burgers I’ve had in the city and they are good, plus the ambiance has adorable references to Hollywood) – but I just wish the French appreciation for Americana weren’t quite so in my face.

used-2013-10-19-pny-paris-new-york-hamburger-paris-paul-prescott

Photo credit: Paul Prescott

Because I’m a loyal New Yorker, I have never had a hotdog other than at Grays Papaya. Not in Germany, Switzerland, Austria and certainly not in France! Were I from California I’d probably boycott Paris-NY, in lieu of In-and-Out burgers.

[3] What differentiates your neighborhood from all the other parts of the city?

There are several ethnic hoods in the city – the 13th Arrt with Chinatown, the 2nd Arrt with Little Japan, Goute d’Or with mini Africa, La Chapelle has a wonderful few block radius of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, colors and spices, the 17th Arrt around Porte Maillot has a somewhat frightening Slavic contingent who prowl the streets of neighboring affluent Neuilly for car jackings and the lot, etc. There are also a handful of bi-ethnic ‘hoods such as Belleville which balances as many Chinese as Arabs probably.

These pockets are great, but what sets the FSD area apart from the rest of the city is the extent of its multi-cultural, multi-class (though god forbid “class” be mentioned in egalitarian France, it very much exists here) is complete. A total balance of cultures, races, religions, education, money, professions, etc. The 30-something upper middle class French who wish so much to be seen as “down with the people” have their graphic design and architecture offices here as well as their 200 meter squared loft spaces where they’re raising their kids. The poor African hotels and boarding houses line Chateau d’Eau above the African hair salon after hair salon. The regular old fashioned French family have their perfectly middle class flats alone the gentrified passage des Petites Ecuries.

This span of demographics is of course is reflected in the myriad of whiskey lounges, uber minimalist restaurants, Williamsburg-like brick oven pizza place Lucky Lucianos, a great wide absinthe counter where you have to have tapas to dull the buzz, etc. All of these are nestled amongst the numerous Pakistani, Turkish Baklavaci, Kurdish place (Urfa Durum), Daily Syrien falafel place, Chinese grocery store on rue de l’Echequier, etc.

[4] Favorite coffee spot in your neighborhood

Le Daily Syrien (55, rue du Fbg St Denis) newspaper shop is a favourite, because they have deliciously strong coffee and I find it pleasant and neighborhoodly to sit for at least a few articles at their communal table, sometimes with a falafel. Storsh loves to accompany me as Hassim always gives him a delicious baklava treat. The love with which they designed the place, laying lovely tile floors, makes me hope they make a success of it! The lunchtime lines imply they already are.

[5] Favorite spot for drinks.
I have several fave places, l’Inconnu and Aux Xieme just opposite each other are both great for an after-word drink – and which the suits from a nearby BNP Paribas frequent through till the wee hours often. I’m always delighted for a crisp glass of Chablis at Monsieur Baba, to catch the afternoon sun (Though I’m not fond of the kitschy interior, or the burger menu the staff are darlings and very accommodating), or a late night-cap at the stylish low bar of Bistro Bellet is great, too. Facing a rich turquoise tile wall and elegantly designed restaurant interior at this wide wood bar never fails to please. There’s a new Whiskey + Cocktail lounge on rue d’Enghein that I haven’t tried yet, but looks lovely.

monsieur baba - Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

monsieur baba – Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

[6] Favorite local hangout.

Having a toddler at home means that I can’t get a lot of THATLou work done unless I do so outside (I’m writing this interview for instance from my local hangout). I have a special corner seat next to a radiator which the waiters refer to as my office, and where I prune their plants when writer’s block hits. It is my little patch of heaven, with a peaceful view of the cobble-stoned, tree-lined passage to linger on while my finger tips are fluttering over the keyboard. Right now I’m appreciating the lovely line of bollards and how they angle into my large window. Here’s a photo of my peace:

Petites Ecuries from my PMU- @ Daisy de Plume

Petites Ecuries from my PMU- @ Daisy de Plume

I am most intensely productive in this seat both because of these plants and view, as well as because I have no internet access (I’m horribly addicted to Instagram). The pressure of productivity attached to this divine space is furthered still by a need to complete my self-assigned tasks within the life-cycle of both my computer battery and often more urgently, my bladder. It’s a seedy Tabac where though I can go to the lav (by giving my retinue of adored waiters my computer to hold behind the bar) I’d honestly much rather go upstairs to the cleanliness of my own flat, than to the Clorox-reeking tiles of this old fashioned (read: Turkish toilet!) toilet which requires a gettone to open the door.

Whoosh, that’s a lot of information – perhaps too much! I guess a question about ones’ most sacred place is bound to evoke personal details, but the toilet might be going a bit far… Apologies to those who’ve been offended!

[7] Favorite breakfast spot.

I don’t actually eat breakfast, but a wonderful snack place that I frequent is l’Epicerie , on the above mentioned tree-lined, traffic-less passage des Petites Ecuries. It’s a great place that doubles as a Bio Farmer’s Cooperative, where you inscribe monthly or annually and then every Tuesday night from 5.30 to 7.30 PM you can go and get your box of fresh veggies that the Farmers have brought in. And attached to the space is a divine florist, appropriate to the farm-feel.

But apart from that l’Epicerie also happens to have its outdoor tables – both communal picnic benches as well as individual tables with sunken green chairs – at the widest juncture of the sidewalk. For this reason it’s particularly popular among the young parents of the hood, serving usefully as a social hot spot for the toddlers playing tag or racing their scooters up and down the safe-haven tree-lined passage while the parents catch up. It’s also one of the few places in the hood that’s actually open early, catching the morning crowd with homemade tartes, cakes and the lot.

[8] Favorite lunch spot.

Well before we lived in the FSD district my husband and I would go to 19th-Century Brasserie Flo for long romantic lunches. Just thinking of the interior makes me relish their foie gras starter or scrumptious oysters before a proper Choucroute for El Argentino, my husband and Sole Meunière for me – of course with equally scrumptious wines to match.

The starched table cloths and portly old waiters add a formality to this classic Alsatian brasserie, as do the turn of the century gnome murals, stained glass windows and grand flower arrangements.

They do serve dinner, and we have gone as parents, but the lovely wood-lined feel makes me reserve -it in my mind) for a good 3 hour lunch sans enfants and only speaking of adult worldly events, literature and ideas… All laundry talk must be tabled here.

[9] Favorite dinner spot.

The restaurant PAN (12, rue Martel 75010) is hands-down my favorite spot for dinner in the hood. The menu changes daily, so I can’t recommend any one thing in particular, but whenever I’m there I manage to clock in several hours of dish after dish of immaculately presented, mouth quenching delights. Likewise the wine list is perfectly matched to each days’ monch.

PAN, storsh + pascal - Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

PAN, storsh + pascal – Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

In terms of ambiance, it’s one of the few places in Paris that balances the fashionista haughtily heeled crowd without being pretentious, which I very much appreciate. There’s a mix of styles that takes “interior design” to a new level; clean lines of Danish Modern furniture are coupled with exposed raw walls and lighting cracking of East Berlin. A glossy shellacked ceiling adds depth and the zebra zig zags of varying wood floors provide a polish which the walls have stripped.

Cortazar plaque on rue Martel - Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

Cortazar plaque on rue Martel – Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

This former Chandelier factory is not to be missed, nor is the tiny café by the same owner just opposite, Le Look. Pan also has a back room for an intimate dinner party. And if you’re among Argentines (because isn’t everyone?), en route be sure to show them the plaque of where Cortázar lived, on the same side of rue Martel!

[10] One thing you always do/spot you always take friends from out of town to do/see.
Actually, I just wrote about this recently for a Franco File Friday interview on Lindsey Traumuta’s Lost in Cheeseland.  The one most useful place I stop by with guests is Atelier de Pablo, at 34, rue d’Hauteville. It’s a brocante or polished flea market without having to go out of town to the Puces, and as a store was a pioneer in the gentrification of the hood.

Atelier de Pablo - Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

Atelier de Pablo – Instagram @ Daisy de Plume

Guests never fail to find “So French” gifts of wonderfully handmade objects ranging from funky slippers and shoes, to bags, children’s clothes and stuffed animals, bric-a-brac, great lamps, lights, furniture, mirrors, anything that happens to be there at the time. There’s no real rhyme or reason to what they have, but it’s all fun to look at and a great gift shop for visitors. I must see if they’d be interested in including the Bay Area handmade kid-line Common Thread Kids  as it’s just up their alley.

Rue d’Hauteville was originally a furrier’s quartier (there are still several wholesale fur shops on the street), so when Véro and Ben (the two ladies who own the shop) bought the space back in 2006 apparently the upstairs was one huge bank vault where the former fur shop kept its wares overnight. Véro said it was a tough decision to remove (because it was so quaint), but the steel wall lining was thick enough that the space was worth it. Then the actual renovation was apparently a real nightmare, too!

Thanks Daisy!

Here are other great spots in the 10th (the majority of which were provided by Daisy!):

Paris-10th-Arrt-Addresses

RESTOS, BARS + CAFES

> Pan (12, rue Martel)  tél: +33 9 52 51 63 70, best resto in hood. (L’Express article)
> Le Look (17, rue Martel) tél: +33 9 50 10 20 31, tiny cafe, opened daytime only.
> Le Daily Syrien (55, rue du Fbg St Denis) fabulously fresh falafels with your newspaper.
> Brasserie Flo (7, cour des Petites Écuries) tél: +33 1 47 70 13 59, turn of century brasserie.
> Epicerie de la Cour (6, cour des Petites Écuries) coffee, cake, farmer’s coop.
> Aux Xème (25 rue Mazagran) which just means « The 10th »
> L’Iconnu (17-19 rue Mazagran) trendy, hipster bar.
> Chez Jeannette (47, rue du Fbg St Denis) tél: 01 47 70 30 89, grandfather of trendy bars.
> Lucky Luciano (1, cour des Petites Écuries) tél: +33 9 51 55 73 41, great pizzas.
> Paris-New York (50, rue du Fbg St Denis) Yank Burgers.
> Nanashi (31, rue de Paradis) tél: +33 1 40 22 05 55, asian fusion bento food.
> Chez Julien (16, rue du Fbg St Denis) tél: +33 1 47 70 12 06, turn of century brasserie.
> Urfa Dürüm (56, rue du Faubourg St Denis)  Kurdish cuisine.
> l’Ile aux Cerfs (8-10, passage du Prado) tél: 01 44 83 98 20, Mauricien take away.
> Baklavaci Riza (5, passage des Petits Écuries) tél: +33 6 25 91 37 55, old school baklava shop.
> Bistrot Bellet (84 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis) great seafood dishes.
> Monsieur Baba (69 rue du Faubourg-St-Denis) nice for brunch.

PARKS + PASSAGES

> Square Montholon – rue Montholon, off of rue La Fayette in the 9th (10 min by foot to heart of FSD)
> Square Villemin – rue Recollets, btwn Canal St Martin and Gare de l’Est (two diff ages of playgrounds)
> Square du Temple – rue Bretagne and du Temple in the northern 3rd (15 min by foot to heart of FSD)
> Passage Brady – Indian Restos + delicious spice shops
> Passage du Prado – don’t miss the recently renovated and painted ceiling finials, apparently it used to host ball room dances – you wouldn’t guess from the Pakistani hair salons and internet cafes
> Marche St Martin – rue Château d’Eau (Covered market, has fun Fireman’s ride for kiddies)

STORES

> Atelier de Pablo (34, rue d’Hauteville) brocante.
> Julhès (54, rue du Fbg St Denis) tél: 09.50.32.06.32, Maison de Gastronomie empire.

LODGING

> Hotel Paradis (41, rue des Petites Écuries) tél: +33 01 45 23 08 22, boutique hotel, great attention to design, small, modestly priced ; less than 5 minutes walk to FSD.
> Hotel de Nell (7-9, rue du Conservatoire) tel +33 01 44 83 83 60, a recently renovated 5 star, uber-polished design hotel – if you want to pamper yourself reserve a room with a Japanese Bath; rooms range from 250 – 1200 euros a night. Ten minutes by foot from the heart of FSD.

MUSIC

> New Morning (7-9, rue des Petites Écuries) tél: 01 45 23 51 41, famous music venue on par with NY’s Blue Note. New Morning’s had the likes of Chet Baker, Dizzie Gillespie, Nina Simone, etc. Apart from Jazz + Blues it also has a big World Music scene.

WHAT OTHERS SAY

> Written by Daisy for Sasha Romary’s Up Close and Personal: Neighborhood Guide Faubourg St. Denis
> Written by Daisy for Edna Zhao’s Expat Edna: I love my neighborhood, Paris Faubourg St. Denis
> Written by Daisy for the Radisson Blu Blog: Ex-pats guide to Paris
> New York Times: Brunch on a Budget in Paris’s 10th Arrondissement (written by pal Lindsey Tramuta)
> Highlights from the 10th Arrondissement from My Parisian Life
> Girls Guide to Paris 10th Arrondissment Restaurants
> Paris by Mouth 10th Arrondissement Restaurants

You can connect with Daisy on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Pinterest.  If you are ever in Paris, please do check out THATLou, THATd’Or and THATRue!

How about you? Do you have any 10th Arrondissement additions? Have you been to this area of Paris? Did you find this post helpful for a future trip?

About Andi Fisher

I'm a lifestyle blogger focused on travel and food. A marketing gal who gave up my job to travel around the United States in an RV with my hubby. I'm now settling into the Portland area where I'm looking for my next career adventure! I love to travel via my stomach. Eating, seeking out local artisans and features to share. I've got more than 26 years of experience in marketing focused on content, social media, and direct marketing and I've mentored many bloggers, old and new.

Comments

  1. Andi, What a joy it is to see this, and what an honor to have been asked to kick start your fabulous series! Thanks so much and can’t wait to see you next you guys are here! xxx D

    • Andi Fisher says:

      @Daisy, merci! And thank you for your generosity in adding all the extra addresses! You are a total gem!

  2. Terri S says:

    Great post! I love the pictures. Thank you so much for sharing.

  3. Shannon says:

    This is so gorgeous. Thank you for sharing.

  4. Michael W Perkins says:

    Wife toured Europe aftr college..

  5. Paris is such a wonderful place to travel. Love the pictures.

  6. Great pictures! Paris is such a wonderful place.

  7. First of all, I’ve always thought DAISY was a great name. I love it even more since DiCaprio’s Gatsby. I really like ThatLOU site, also. I remember that adventure from a previous post. Daisy – you have such a great life and it’s very inspiring to read about it and all your favorite places. I’m just hanging out here in the insanely wide-open spaces of Oklahoma. A friend from London moved here a few years ago and always remarked about how much land there is here. I try to find the beauty in it, but the long romantic lunch you referred to and the falafel with deliciously strong coffee – it’s calling my name. =) Andi – It always amazes me the space you give others on your blog. It truly makes you standout in the masses. Thank you for introducing me to so many wonderful people over the years!!
    jen recently posted…Mothers Watching

    • Andi Fisher says:

      @Jen, Daisy is wonderful and amazing and talented and provides a unique view to Paris through her treasure hunts and tours. And Jen, you are wonderful and amazing and talented and provide a unique view to your own backyard as well. I am blessed to have you both in my life!

  8. How lucky to be able to live and work in Paris, each and ever photo made me drool! The architecture in Paris always makes me a bit weak in the knees. How fantastic for you to have a friend who lives in Paris to give you an insider’s tour!
    Cynthia/What A Girl Eats recently posted…Afternoon Tea At The Historic Millennium Biltmore Hotel

    • Andi Fisher says:

      @Cynthia, I am lucky! I have many friends in Paris so it is always like going home. Daisy is a very special person, super smart and very talented, her tours are wonderful!

  9. very nice pictures of france

  10. It is my dream to visit France and especially Paris! You are super lucky and I am super jealous of your adventures!!

  11. I remember travelling to London England back in 1998 with my art school. A couple of us wanted to take the train (or the under water train????) across to Paris, but many of them didn’t WANT to. WHAT?! I’m still kicking myself for not being more bold and saying. LETS DO IT.
    Nancy recently posted…Tips on travelling with your pets

  12. Fi Ní Neachtáin says:

    Awh I remember reading your series about San Francisco, how cool to begin a series about Paris. I love Paris, it’s such a great city and I can’t wait to visit again someday, with my other half in tow. It’s great to get some ‘must see’ places knowledge from a native 🙂

  13. Wow, what a wonderful post. I just adore anything and everything to do with Paris. I was about to visit there but I had to change my plans to take care of my cancer stricken father. Hopefully I can get there one day and enjoy the beautiful places you write about. Pinning to my travel board!
    Amanda recently posted…Why You Need a Chalkboard Wall

  14. brook devis says:

    Wow what a great post.i have been to paris and also in areaa you visited.paris is extreamly a beautiful city.i lovd french food.but i would love to go also to america.every place has his own beauty.pictures are awesome

  15. Paris is such a beautiful city!! I love the architecture of the buildings and just walking on the roads there you can see so much!! Your pictures are beautiful and capture so much of the spirit of the city!
    Tammilee Tips recently posted…Lynchburg Lemonade Recipe

  16. Oh wow, what beautiful place to call your neighborhood! I would love to visit and especially to go to the “polished flea market”, I can only imagine the treasures that can be found there! I also don’t eat breakfast but that snack place sounds like it would be delicious! I hope to visit one day, thanks for sharing. 🙂
    Lauren Harmon recently posted…Surprise Inside Easter Clothespin Craft

  17. Seeing Paris through your blog is so great! I definitely want to visit some day. Love the idea of the little coffee places, sitting on the terrace and enjoying the view.
    Delia @ Happy Blogger Plaza recently posted…5 free tools and strategies to increase your blog traffic fast

  18. Beautiful images and wonderful information! I have to come back and review this again when I can finally make it to Paris! thank you!
    Jaclyn Anne recently posted…$15 Amazon Gift Card Giveaway {ends 4/20}

  19. What a great post! I love seeing all the photos and learning all about what I should be doing when we visit Paris. It’s on my bucket list, but sadly, no current plans to go there. Life gets busy… so someday 🙂
    Betsy @ BPhotoArt.com recently posted…How to Make Boxes from Greeting Cards

  20. What a beautiful post, living in New York I feel like I don’t truly experience my city the way you do in Paris and honestly its a shame! As I am reading your post my daughter asked to visit, because of course she is over my shoulder lol. I promised a visit to Paris when she is at least 7 and no longer requires frequent naps:)
    geanine recently posted…Our Top 5 must have items to ensure a good flight with Giveaway! #SpringBreak

  21. My goodness! Your post shared a lot of fantastic photographs and awesome resources! I just had to bookmark it so that it can be a reference material should my Hubby and I make it to Paris. I haven’t been there in over a decade and I truly miss it!
    Cara (@StylishGeek) recently posted…Build Happiness Skills with Happify

  22. Such lovely pics…wishing I could travel to Paris myself. I’m in awe! Thanks for sharing Andi. 🙂
    Tania recently posted…Elizabeth + Micah | Fun & Beautiful Waterfall Engagement Session

  23. What a plethora of fabulous discoveries for those of us who are visiting Paris! I was only there for one day this month, but it renewed my love of Paris and I hope to go back again soon and hit some of these spots!
    Christina @ Christina’s Cucina recently posted…A Marvelous Hideaway in the Center of London: The Bull & Hide Pub, Hotel and Restaurant

  24. what I love about France is the language, and especially the french olden music like Edith Piaf’s songs.

  25. Wow, what an interview. Our family visited Paris in June this year and it was wonderful. I wish I had this information prior to our trip, I would loved to have spent some time in Arr 10 and experiencing this rich history (and foods)!

  26. As someone who would like to (re)visit Paris one day, I found this tongue-in-cheek guide extremely helpful. Now I know which areas I’d pick to unpack my bags, which is priceless info indeed. Thanks!

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